Showing posts with label Santa Clarita. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Santa Clarita. Show all posts

Friday, May 1, 2015

Memorial Garden Tour Benefiting Veterans is Sunday, May 3rd, 2015

"The garden tour is made up of exhibitors scattered throughout Santa Clarita Valley who are real gardeners...who have generously consented to share their gardens with you.
This is a self guided tour where your donation is a freewill offering. No price will ever be put on viewing the gardens. Each garden will provide a donation bucket so dig deep and give as generously as you can! Our organization continues to support families of fallen and wounded military. Checks can be made out to the Cole William Larsen Foundation."

Find out more: http://memorialgardentour.com/

Thursday, April 30, 2015

WATER RESTRICTIONS UPDATE APRIL 2015


This month California’s Governor Jerry Brown issued an Executive Order to reduce potable urban water use by 25%.  The State Water Board is implementing various restrictions to help reduce the amount of water used by Californians and an estimated 1.5 million acre-feet of water plans to be saved by the end on nine months. The latest water usage restrictions include:
  • Replacing 50 million square feet of lawns throughout the state with drought tolerant landscaping in partnership with local governments
  • Directing the creation of a temporary, statewide consumer rebate program to replace old appliances with more water and energy efficient models
  • Requiring campuses, golf courses, cemeteries and other large landscapes to make significant cuts in water use
  • Prohibiting new homes and developments from irrigating with potable water unless water-efficient drip irrigation systems are used
  • Ban watering of ornamental grass on public street medians
This was in addition to the previous restrictions passed in October 2014 and March 2015 prohibiting Californians from: 
  • Washing down sidewalks and driveways
  • Watering in a way that causes runoff
  • Washing a motor vehicle without a shut-off nozzle on hose 
  • Operating a fountain or water feature that doesn’t recycle water 
  • No watering during rain or 48 hours after rainfall
  • Restaurants only can serve water to customers who ask for it
  • Hotels must give guests the choice of not having their towels and linens washed on a daily basis. 
Across Southern California one can see violations that hopefully will be addressed with the new restrictions. The VA National Cemetery in Westwood, with acres of grass, had their sprinklers on during the rain the other week which violated watering during or 48 hrs after rainfall restriction. LADWP has many offices across the city with grass landscaping and they are offering rebates for people to switch out their grass for drought tolerant landscape! Speaking of grass, If you happen to drive on San Vicente Blvd. around 2 AM, watch out for the sprinklers watering the roughly four miles of grassy median which sprays into the streets, sometimes missing the grass completely and creating huge puddles of wasted water.  Replacing grass in the medians with drought resistant landscaping would save thousands of gallons of water that wouldn’t be wasted watering the grass (or street) every night.  According to the above restrictions, the city of Los Angeles is now banned from watering medians and will hopefully update these areas
with xeriscape in the future.

There are companies who have been pro-active. Anthem Inc. has taken a huge step in the right direction at their Woodland Hills, CA campus where 12.7 acres of lawn were recently removed and replaced with drought-friendly plants. By the end of the year, Anthem Inc. will have saved 12 million gallons of water simply because they removed their lawns.  The funds that were needed to make this change possible were provided by the LADWP.  Hopefully the LADWP will follow in Anthem’s footsteps and be the next to replace lawns that surround their buildings.  

At Pacific Vista Landscape Services, we are experts switching out lawns for native plants and drought tolerant options as well as non-vegetative landscaping additions. We also have the latest smart technology irrigation systems that can save you even more money in rebates. Call us for a free irrigation evaluation and let us help you save water and money AND have a beautifully landscaped garden!

Monday, July 14, 2014

Killing Bugs Naturally and Keeping Your Kids, Pets, and Wildlife Safe!

Rosemary is a natural insecticide. 
by Pacific Vista Landscape Services

Nowadays it’s easy to buy chemicals that will kill unwanted garden insects.  You save your plants from ruin, but at what price?  Many commercial insecticides contain chemicals that are not only hazardous to humans, but they are also dangerous for pets and for wildlife as well. Is there a safer and even a more economical solution? Yes, there is, and it’s potentially right in your pantry!

The following “recipes” will arm you with the ammunition you need to rid your garden of insect pests, and keep your children and pets safe from the effects of nasty chemicals.  All you’ll need is a spray bottle and some common household ingredients!

#1 - Mix 2 tbsp. baby shampoo to 1 gallon of water. Add 2 tbsp. cooking oil and stir to blend. Fill a spray bottle with the solution and spray all plant parts to control insect pests. Repeat every five to seven days.

#2 - Peel two cloves of garlic and four onions and chop coarsely. Place in the blender with 1 qt. water and 2 tbsp. cayenne pepper. Blend until the onions and garlic are pureed. Strain the mixture through cheesecloth or a fine mesh strainer to remove particles. Add the mixture to 2 gallons of water. Mix in 2 tbsp. mild soap flakes and stir to dissolve. Apply to plants with a spray bottle and repeat as needed.

#3 - Fill a plastic half-gallon milk container with water, leaving about 2 inches at the top. Blend two or three strong chili peppers, such as habaneros or Thai chili peppers, in a blender with 1 cup of water. Next, strain the chili pepper as you pour the contents of the blender into the half-gallon milk container. Shake the container to distribute the pepper oils and let it stand for one day. Transfer the chili pepper mixture into a spray bottle when you're ready to use it.


 #4 - Place 4 ounces of fresh rosemary at the bottom of the clear glass jar. Pour in enough safflower oil to cover the herbs. Close the jar with the cover and place in a warm, sunny spot for at least two days.  Open the jar and pour oil through the strainer into the measuring cup. Discard the remaining herbs.  Pour 2 ounces of the strained oil into the spray bottle. Add 2 ounces of liquid soap and 8 ounces of water.  Shake bottle until mixture is blended. Shake the bottle before every use, because the components will separate.  Spray evenly over the plants to be treated. Hold the bottle at least 12 inches away from the plants when you spray.

Varying the “natural” insecticide you use can help its efficacy over time. Use one of these “recipes” for awhile, and then mix up another one.  You’ll save money and have peace of mind!

Wednesday, April 23, 2014

The Cherry Trees in Washington D.C.

Washington Monument & Cherry trees
Photo courtesy of Nation Park Service

It is that time of year again when thousands of bare cherry blossom trees awaken from their cold slumber in Washington DC and dawn their colorful flowers. Once dormant and colorless, the cherry blossom trees begin to sprout millions of pink and white flowers that dazzle West Potomac Park, Hains Point, and the Washington Memorial in vibrant colors. During this time, 1.5 million people travel to Washington DC to attend the Cherry Blossom Festival and admire the gorgeous scenery.

Time for a quick history lesson! Let’s go back a century to when the cherry blossom trees first came to the U.S. In 1910, 2,000 trees were sent to Washington DC as a gift from Japan. Unfortunately upon arrival, the Department of Agriculture discovered that the trees were diseased and had to be destroyed as soon as possible. Two years later, Japan sent 3,000 healthy cherry blossom trees to make up for the previously diseased ones. This beautiful gift contained a variety of different cherry
Cherry tree inspection
photo courtesy of U.S.National Arboretum
blossoms, such as somei-yoshino and jonioi cherry blossoms. The first two trees were planted on the north bank of the Tidal Basin in West Potomac Park. First Lady Helen Herron Taft and Viscountess Chinda, the wife of the Japanese ambassador, had the honor of planting these two trees. Workmen then continued to plant the remainder of the trees, which would provide a breath taking sight for years to come.

To remember Japan’s gift to the U.S., the tree planting ceremony was re-enacted by Washington school children in 1927. Celebration and admiration of the gorgeous cherry blossom trees did not stop there; in 1935 the first “Cherry Blossom Festival” was held and sponsored by numerous civic groups. This festival would occur annually, and soon grow from days to weeks. Not only did the Cherry Blossom Festival grow, but so did the relationship between Japan and the U.S. Over the years, gifts have continued to be exchanged between the two countries. Examples of such gifts include when the U.S. gave Japan flowering dogwood trees, as well as cuttings from the cherry blossom trees originally gifted in order to replace trees Japan had lost in a flood. In 1965, the U.S. received 3,800 Yoshino cherry blossom trees from Japan, which would be planted on the grounds of the Washington Monument.

If you happen to be one of the millions of tourists that go to Washington DC each year to see the Cherry Blossom Festival, take a minute to remember what significance the cherry blossom trees hold. Not only are they beautiful, delicate, and extraordinary, they are a symbol of the friendship between the U.S. and Japan.

Sources:

            

Friday, February 21, 2014

Rose Spotlight: The Native California Wild Rose


by Pacific Vista Landscape Services
Native California wild rose and rose hips

One of the advantages to living in California is that our climate is perfect for growing many types of beautiful plants, including roses. Roses do well here because of the sunny weather and dry air which reduces fungal issues and diseases that can plague roses. There are many beautiful varieties of roses, in all colors and sizes, it's no wonder that roses are widely cultivated and so popular today. However, roses were in California long before people. Taking a look back to the 'root' of roses, uncovers a wonderful native variety known as the Californian wild rose.

There is fossil evidence that the very first roses in North America, known as the wild rose, dates back 35 million years ago and are related to the species we know today. Interestingly, wild roses were also found in Asia dating back 70 million years ago and scientists are not sure why they only grew wild in the Northern Hemisphere. Unlike the modern day rose with many petals, the wild rose has five petals and is open-faced and quite hardy.

The California wild rose is prolific in California and Oregon, growing wildly usually near deep water sources. It is considered to be a 'keystone' species which is a plant that is relied on by other plants, animals, birds and insects that inhabit the area. It supports pollinators like bees and butterflies and is a favorite nesting plant for songbirds. It has a long blooming season from spring into summer and the blooms are wonderfully fragrant.
     
Another interesting attribute is the tiny fruit it provides deep into winter.  Called rose hips, they looks like small red crab apples and contain the rose seeds. They are high in vitamin C and also contains vitamins A, B-3, D and E as well as bioflavonoids.  It is an important food source for birds and animals, was regularly used by the Native Americans, and is widely used today in supplements, teas, and recipes.

The California wild rose is hardy, easy to grow and is relatively pest free. Unlike it's newer relatives, it is drought tolerant once established. It does well in a wide range of soil types and is best planted in medium to large areas. It spreads by sending out underground runner roots and its deep roots make a good barrier from other invasive plants. Plus it will attract bees and butterflies to your garden and maybe a songbird or two!



Friday, October 4, 2013

Composting is Easy!

http://www.inventistmedia.com/
Compost photo by Inventist Media
by Pacific Vista Landscape Services

In nature, once living material drops to the ground, decays, and eventually decomposes creating compost. This material is essential because it adds nutrients to the soil helping living plants thrive. It is easy to create your own compost and make your garden thrive as well!

The first essential ingredient for creating compost is air. The bacteria and fungus microbes that are in your compost pile need oxygen to live. If your pile is too dense or becomes too wet, the air supply to the inside is cut off and the beneficial organisms will die. Decomposition will slow and an offensive odor may arise. To avoid this, turn and fluff the pile with a pitchfork often, perhaps weekly. You can also turn the pile by just re-piling it into a new pile.


Next is water. One of the most common mistakes in composting is letting the pile get too dry. Your compost pile should be moist as a wrung-out sponge. A moisture content of 40 to 60 percent is preferable. To test for adequate moisture, reach into your compost pile and grab a handful of material and squeeze it; if a few drops of water come out, it's probably got enough moisture, if it doesn't, add water. When you water, it is best to put a hose into the pile so that you aren't just wetting the top. You can also water as you are turning the pile. During dry weather, you may have to add water regularly. During wet weather, you may need to cover your pile. A properly constructed compost pile will drain excess water and not become soggy.


Third essential ingredient is carbon. Microbes need carbon for energy to be able to break down the organic material. Brown yard and garden material such as dry leaves, twigs, hay, or shredded paper can provide the carbon balance for a compost pile. Chop or shred large pieces to 12 inches or shorter (thick, woody branches should be chipped, ground up, or left out). 


Lastly, composting needs nitrogen. Nitrogen is the protein required to fuel the bodies of the microbes so they can do their job. Green materials such as grass clipping and landscape trimmings are ideal sources of nitrogen for composting. Vegetable and fruit trimmings and peels can also provide nitrogen for composting. Coffee grounds and tea bags may look brown, but are actually potent nitrogen sources. To reduce the potential for pests or odors, avoid meat or dairy scraps and always bury food scraps deep within the compost pile. Avoid pet feces due to concerns about pathogens. However, manure from chickens, turkeys, cows or horses is rich in nitrogen, and can help your compost pile get to proper temperatures, and make very good compost.

You can compost in a contained bin or, if it's ok with your city, have an outside pile right on the ground. Ideally, the compost pile should be at least three feet wide by three feet deep by three feet tall (one cubic yard). This size provides enough food and insulation for the organisms to live. However, piles can be larger or smaller and work just fine if managed well.  

The easiest compost recipe calls for blending roughly one part of green or wet material (which is high in nitrogen) and two parts brown or dry material (which is high in carbon). Having the right ratio of carbon to nitrogen is important. "Piles with too much nitrogen tend to smell, because the excess nitrogen converts into an ammonia gas. Carbon-rich piles break down slowly because there's not enough nitrogen for the microbe population to expand. An ideal compost pile should have a 30:1 C/N ratio. Grass clippings alone have about a 20:1 C/N ratio. Adding one part grass clippings, or other green, to two parts dead leaves, or other brown, will give you the right mix." (source: http://www.organicgardening.com/learn-and-grow/composting-101) Simply layer or mix these materials in a pile or enclosure; chop or shred large pieces to 12" or shorter. Water and fluff the compost to add air. Then leave it to the microorganisms, which will break down the material over time.

Compost piles that have the right blend of nitrogen and carbon and are kept moist and fluffed regularly, will heat up to temperatures of 120 to 140 degrees Fahrenheit. The high temperature will kill most weed seeds and speed up the decomposition process so that the compost may be ready in 2 to 3 months or less. Casual compost piles are also quite workable since compost will happen even if you just pile on yard and food waste, water sporadically, and wait. Since these piles don't get too hot, often worms will migrate into these and they will help breakdown material as well. Casual composting can take several months.

Composting is finished when the original material has been transformed into a uniform, dark brown, crumbly product with a pleasant, earthy aroma. There may be a few chunks of woody material left; these can be screened out and put back into a new pile. Besides making incredible, nutrient rich soil for your garden, using left over food scraps in your compost cuts down food waste that would otherwise end up in land fills! Composting is a win-win! 

Friday, September 6, 2013

Landscaping 101: Glossary of Terms

Here are some commonly used terms in landscaping:
by Pacific Vista Landscape Services

Accent:
The use of a plant or object to draw attention to a space.

Acidic soil: 
Soil with a pH value of less than 7.0.

Aeration:
A method of increasing water and oxygen into compact soil by turning and loosening the soil to allow penetration.

Alkaline soil: 
Soil with a pH value of more than 7.0.

Annual:
A plant that completes its life cycle in one year or season.

Apex: 
The tip of a stem.

Arbor: 
A shady garden shelter or bower, often made of rustic wood or latticework on which vines, roses, etc. are grown.

Arboretum:
A landscaped space where trees, shrubs, and herbaceous plants are cultivated for scientific study, educational purposes, and to foster appreciation of plants.

Axil:
The area between a leaf and the stem from which the leaf arises.

Bacillus Thuringiensis(BT):
Biological Control

Beneficial Biological Controls:
Insects and organic chemicals

Biennial:
A plant that typically takes two years to complete it's life cycle.


Budding:
A form of asexual reproduction in which a new organism develops from an outgrowth or bud on another one.

Bulb:
An underground plant structure that contains nutrients, energy and seed to produce a plant.

Cambrium Layer:
The thin layer of growing cells between the xylem and phloem.

Chlorosis:
Iron deficiency

Clay:
A soil particle which is plate-like, extremely small and may retain nutrients well.

Clod:
A lump of clay which is difficult to break apart.

Cold Hardy:
Capable of withstanding cold weather conditions.

Compost:
A soil product created from decomposed garden material, used in flower beds to add nutrients and encourage good growth.

Cultivar:
A cultivated variety of a plant selected for some feature that distinguishes it from 
the species from which it was selected.

Cultivation:
Turning the soil to provide better air circulation or to control weeds.

Dead Heading:
Removing dead flowers before they set seed.

Deciduous:
Having leaves that fall off or are shed 
seasonally to avoid adverse weather conditions such as cold or drought.

Defoliation:
The process when a plant looses all its leaves.

Dethatching:
Removing thatches in grass; removal of the dead grass.


Die Back:
Tips of branches decline due to lack of moisture or disease.

Dormancey:
When a plant reaches a dormant period, usually in winter.

Drainage:
The downward movement of water passing through soil.


Drip Line:
Outmost branch tips where the water would land to feed the tree.

Drought Tolerant:
The ability of a plant to thrive without much water.


Epiphyte:
A plant that lives on a host plant but draws nutrients from the air.

Espalier:
A flat or fan like like trellis.

Established Plant:
When the plant is fully rooted.

Evergreen:
A plant whose leaves or needles are green year-round.

Fertilizer:
A material added to feed plants rich in nutrients, usually nitrogen (often lost with frequent mowing), phosphates and potash.

Fescue:
Soft compact fine-leafed grasses.


Flower Form:
Structure of a flower, i.e. single, semi, double.

Foundation Plant: plant that is used to frame around a house or structure and connect it to the rest of the landscape.

Frond:
A large leaf with multiple divisions.

Fungicide:
The chemical used to control a fungus-related disease.

Germination:
The sprouting of a seed, spore or pollen grain.


Genus:
A subdivion of a family or subfamily in the classification of organisms.

Girdling:
Also called ring-barking, is the removal of bark around the circumference of the tree in a ring. The result is a slow death to the part of the tree or woody plant above the damage.

Grading:
The process of changing the slope level of an area of soil.


Grafting:
Combining the vascular tissues of two plants to form a hybrid by placing a portion of one plant (called a bud or scion) into or on a stem, root, or branch of another (called the stock) in such a way that a union forms and the partners continue to grow.

Ground Cover:
Plants which are low-growing and create a blanket appearance over an area.


Growing Season:
The period each year when the plant grows.

Hardscape:

Walkways, planters, and areas made of hard material like concrete or rocks that is incorporated into the landscape and balances with the 'softscape'.

Hardy:
Plants that can survive difficult conditions like frost and severe cold.

Hedge:
A variety of shrubs that when planted close together will give a wall-like appearance; often used to separate areas.


Herbaceous:
Having little or no woody tissue. Most plants grown as perennials or annuals are herbaceous.

Herbicide:
A chemical used to control weeds.


Horticulture:
The science of growing plants, flowers, trees, shrubs, fruit, & grasses.

Hybrid:
A plant or group of plants that results from the interbreeding of two distinct cultivars, 
varieties, species, or genera.

Indigenous:
Occurring naturally in a particular place. Native.

Iron:
A mineral used in keeping grass green.

Irrigation: 

Applying water to vegetation and landscape to help it thrive.

Leader:
The primary shoot of a plant.

Leaf Burn:
A plant disease that causes a burnt appearance.

Leaf Mold:
A fungal disease of plants in which mold develops on the leaves.

Lime:
Calcium material used to raise the pH in soil.

Macronutrients:
Essential elements needed in large amounts for healthy plant growth: nitrogen, phosphorus, calcium, magnesium, and sulfur.


Micro Climate:
The climate of a small area that is different than the climate of the surrounding area.

Micronutrients:
Essential elements needed in very small amounts for healthy plant growth: iron, copper, zinc, boron, molybdenum, chlorine, and cobalt.

Mulch:
A material used to cover soil for moisture conservation and weed suppression.

Native Plant:
A plant that lives or grows naturally in a particular region without direct or indirect 
human intervention. Indigenous.

Node:
The part of a plant stem from which one or more leaves emerge.

Organic Fertilizer:
Compounds derived from decomposition of plant and animal products and include blood meal, bone meal, manure, and sewage sludge.


Organic Matter:
Biological material in the process of decaying or decomposing.

Osmosis:
When water travels across a membrane.


Peatmoss:
A bog like moss processed to be used in potting soils and helps assimilate nutrients for the plant.

Perennial:
Persisting for several years, usually dying back to a perennial crown during the winter and initiating new growth each spring.

Pesticide:
A chemical used to control an organism.

pH:
The acidity and alkalinity of soil.


Phloem: 
One of the two types of transport tissue in vascular plants, xylem is the other.

Photosynthesis:
The process in which plants convert sunlight energy into chemical energy that can be used as fuel to aid in plant development.

Planter:
The defined area, commonly raised and composed of wood or concrete, used to grow plants.


Plant Family:
A plant that belongs to a family that shares the same broad characterisitcs.

Polladring:
A pruning meathod in which a a tree's top branches are cut back to the trunk so that it may produce a dense growth of new shoots.

Pollen:
A fine powdery substance consisting of microscopic grains discharged from the male part of a flower or from a male cone.

Pollenation:
The process in which pollen is transferred.

Pollenator Bees:
Bees that transfer pollen.

Pollenizer:
A plant that supplies pollen.

Pruning:
A method of cutting parts of a plant off to control size, health and appearance.

Pseudo Bulb:
A storage organ derived from the part of a stem between two leaf nodes.

Re-foliate:
Term used for when a plant grows new leaves after a leafless period, usually in the spring.


Rhizome:
A horizontal, usually underground stem that often sends out roots and shoots from its nodes.

Root Bound:
A plant that has grown too large for its container resulting in matting or tangling of the roots.

Rootstock:
The part of a budded or grafted plant that furnishes the root system. Also called 'understock'.

Rosette:
A circular arrangement of leaves or petals.

Scion:
A detached shoot or twig used in grafting.

Shrub:
A low-growing woody plant, usually under 15 feet that often has multiple stems.

Shock:
A term used to describe a plant that has been impacted by change, i.e. transplanting, weather, too much or too little water, frost, etc.


Sod:
Small areas of turf ready for transplant to new locations. Often used to start a new lawn.

Softscape:

Vegetation used in landscaping which balances with 'hardscape'. Includes trees, flowers, grasses, shrubs. 

Species:
Plant organisms with similar traits capable of off-spring.

Specimen:
An individual plant used to represent a class or genus or plants.

Sphagnum:
A genus of 120 species of mosses, commonly called peat moss, that survives well in wet, acidic soil.

Spore: 
Typically a one-celled, reproductive unit capable of giving rise to a new individual plant.

Spur:
A projecting root or branch.

Standard:
A tree or shrub that grows to full height.

Stolon:
A stem, at or just below the surface of the ground, that produces new plants from buds at it's tips or nodes.

Stress:
The negative impact of non-living forces on a plant.

Sucker:
A secondary shoot produced from the base or roots of a woody plant that gives rise to a new plant.

Tap Root:
An enlarged root, that grows downward and forms a center which other roots sprout laterally.

Tender:
A delicate plant that is usually sensitive to frost or severe cold.

Temperature Tolerance:
Cold or heat, the degree at which a plant can handle temperatures and survive.

Thatch:
The live or dead layer of roots and stems between the turf of a lawn and the soil.


Thinning:
Pruning or removing some branches in a uniform way throughout a tree or shrub.

Topiary:
A decorative style of plant growth controlled by shaping with pruning or shearing.

Transplant:
Moving a plant from one location to another.

Tree:
A woody perennial plant having a single, usually elongated main stem or trunk with 
few or no branches on its lower part.

Tuber:
A thickened, underground stem or rhizome which stores nutrients.

Turf:
A ground cover of grass.

Variegation:
A pattern of leaves that contains either white or yellow markings.


Variety:
A sub-species of plant.

Vegetation:
A general term for all plant life.

Water Sprout:
A nonflowering shoot arising from a branch or axil of a tree or shrub.

Wildflower:
A herbaceous plant that is native to a given area and is representative of unselected 

forms of its species.

Woody Plant:
A plant with persistent woody parts that do not die back in adverse conditions. Most 
woody plants are trees or shrubs.

Xylem: One of the two types of transport tissue in vascular plants, phloem is the other.


Friday, August 23, 2013

Protecting Our Water Supply: Backflow Prevention in Los Angeles and Ventura Counties

by Pacific Vista Landscape Services

Protecting the public water system from contamination is essential for the safety of our
Aqueduct in California
water supply. Cross-connections of pipes between the public water system and private water systems can lead to backflow issues in which untested and possibly unsafe water goes the wrong direction due to backpressure, and can contaminate the public water supply system. To protect against this, there is a Backflow Protection Program by the Los Angeles Department of Water and Power, (LADWP.) When backflow protection is necessary, customers are required by the LADWP to have an approved backflow prevention assembly installed and tested annually by a certified company like Pacific Vista Landscape Services.


As explained by the Los Angeles County Waterworks District, "A cross-connection is any connection between a safe drinking water system and any other untested water source, system, or equipment that may contain unsafe substance. LACWD’s public water systems are designed to keep water flowing in one direction—from LACWD’s water main to the customers’ connections. When an undesirable condition known as backflow occurs, water is allowed to flow in the opposite direction and may bring contaminants or pollutant into the public drinking water supply through a cross-connection. 

Backflow is caused by a backsiphonage or a backpressure condition in the public water system. Backsiphonage may occur when the pressure in the public water system drops below atmospheric pressure and creates a vacuum that may pull unsafe substance into the public water supply. Backpressure may occur when the pressure from a private water system becomes greater than the pressure in the public water system. This difference in pressure may allow unsafe substance from the private water system to enter the public water system. Approved backflow prevention assemblies are designed to prevent backflow of contaminants or pollutants from entering the public water systems."

Pacific Vista Landscape Services is proud to be certified in installation, repair, and testing of all approved backflow prevention assemblies in Los Angeles and Ventura counties. We offer low rates to our clients with backflow requirements and also specialize in custom protective cages for the backflow assembly, repairs to existing devices, and offer a free annual reminder for testing. Emergency and after hour service is also available.

Call us today for installation, repairs, and testing by our professional, certified backflow prevention service team and let us ensure your property is in compliance with LADWP's Backflow Prevention Program! 


Wednesday, July 24, 2013

Easy Perennials for Southern California

Southern California is a grower's paradise for many flowers thanks to our climate. Perennial is latin for 'through' and 'year' meaning that they should last at least a couple years, with flowers growing and blooming in spring and summer, dying back in fall and winter, and coming back the next spring and summer. However, many perennials can continue blooming for many years in Southern California's climate before being replaced. Here are some easy perennials that continue to give beautiful blooms year after year:
Lily of the Nile photo by Mark Imhof


Lily of the Nile (Agapanthus): A striking combination of green foliage with long slender leaves that blooms in summer with a ball of multiple purple, blue, or white mini trumpet flowers on a long stalk that reaches up a few feet tall. Does well in full sun areas and can be divided in clumps to replant.


California Fuchsia photo by Stan Shebs

California Fuchsia (Zauschneria californica): This variety is perfect for hotter parts of So Cal because it is considered heat-resistant. This variety has grey-green leafy foliage and long-blooming bright orange, red and fuchsia flowers that last summer into fall. This variety does benefit from pruning to encourage fuller growth.



Butterfly Iris photo by Kristina Palmer


Butterfly Iris (Dietes bicolor): This perennial does well in sun or shade and in hard to grow spots. However, the sunnier the location, the more blooms. Each bloom has a short life of only about a day but it continuously gives off masses of flowers starting in early spring throughout the summer. It has upward, spiky leaves and does well in many types of soil. This variety can also be split and replanted.


Santa Barbara Daisy photo by Rob D. Brodman


Santa Barbara Daisy (Erigeron karvinskianus): A blooming superstar and fast spreader with grey-green leaves and small, yellowed centered blooms. Petals start off white and mature into pink and purple. It is one of the earliest bloomers in spring and lasts long into fall. These do well in part sun and can be used to cascade in containers and planters. It also attracks beneficial insects!




Although you can plant perennials any time of the year in Southern California, planting perennials in the early fall helps get their root sytem established to bloom strong by spring and summer. At Pacific Vista Landscape Services we are experts on all types of flowers and adding color to your garden. We are dedicated to maintaining the beauty and value of your landscape!




Friday, July 12, 2013

Property Management: Smart Landscaping

http://www.propertymanagementinsider.com/six-property-management-tips-for-creating-a-long-term-landscape-plan.html
Image by Camden Addison
Being smart and thinking long-term when choosing landscaping for a multi-residential property is key for lasting beauty. Landscaping large properties usually incorporates a combination of hard-scape and soft-scapes that look good initially but should also mature well with the site and not lead to expensive replacement issues down the line.

Property Manager Insider's 'Six Property Management Tips for Creating a Long-Term Landscaping Plan' has some great pointers for making smart choices."Those small trees that uniformly frame the clubhouse or the lush grass under a newly planted young Live Oak may look great now, but changes in available light, water supply, and nutrients over the course of several growing seasons could drastically alter the appearance and force you to replace them at additional cost and headache. 

That’s why apartment property owners should consider a long-term landscape plan that will not only minimize expenses but ensure that the community always looks its best several years down the road:

1. Envision the Property’s Horizon

Look at your horizon on the property and set a goal. Is the goal to create as much shade and greenery for the property as possible, or is it maintaining a clean-cut, colorful landscape that needs plenty of sun?


2. Consider Landscape Maturity

Plants will grow to maturity under normal growing conditions. When planning a landscape, property owners should envision what the property will look like as plant life matures and be prepared to make changes as necessary.

Avoid focusing on what a plant or tree looks like when it’s young: installing a young bush or tree that will be much larger at maturity in a small area could lead to larger issues as it grows. Even if trimmed and not allowed to reach its full growth potential, the plant can break down and be susceptible to disease because of the smaller space.


3. Manage Impact of Sun and Shade

Plants and trees compete for water, sunlight, and nutrients and sometimes only the strongest survive. A blooming plant that appears to grow in harmony next to a young tree will struggle as the tree matures and its canopy spreads to 50 feet across, creating more shade than sunlight. Property owners should incorporate into their master plan what the next step will be if a big tree dies or what will happen to blooming material as the tree gets older.


4. Prepare for Changing Conditions

Weather and changing conditions are big factors to consider when developing a long-term plan. Extreme conditions may tempt property owners to abandon the plan and move in a new direction. But conditions that are here today won’t necessarily be around for long. For example, during the recent drought in the southern U.S., water supplies were depleted for several months, damaging many landscapes that were designed with plant life that requires ample water.


5. Commit to Tree Trimming and Maintenance

Whatever the landscape components, maintenance is fundamental in order to stick to the plan. Skipping routine tree trimming, for example, will extend the tree’s canopy and affect the growth of other nearby plant life. Grass and other shrubs may die and require replanting at an additional expense.

6. Look into the Future

Nobody can predict the future, but it’s fairly certain that world water supply will continue to be an issue as the population grows so managing what is becoming a finite water supply is important. You also need to keep in mind that areas will experience once-in-a-century floods and drought, along with colder and warmer than normal temperatures. Plant life will be affected. A long-term plan should consider this important factor and include introducing material best suited for what lies ahead.
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Whether we are working on a new, complex installation, renovation, or a simple site improvement, our professional crews at Pacific Vista Landscape Services have years of experience using the industry established "best practices" to install both hard-scape and soft-scapes. Pacific Vista delivers the best in workmanship and finest of materials to ensure landscapes retain a lasting beauty. Our team of seasoned pros pay attention to every detail to make certain your vision comes to life!

Friday, July 5, 2013

Trees Need Special Protection During Construction

Alabama Cooperative Extension
Whether you are remodeling your home or starting completely over, mature trees add value to a property and need special protection during construction. It is not just the trunk that needs to be protected, most damage occurs below ground. Heavy machinery can be detrimental to a tree's root system and depending on the type of tree, roots can be shallow and extend quite far. Rolling equipment, even if it passes only a few times, can compact soil and roots too densely and be harmful to the health of the tree. Excavating or adding too much soil can also damage roots.

A study done by forestry agents at the Alabama Cooperative Extension and mentioned in the National Garden Association's article 'Protecting Trees During Construction' came up with some low cost solutions. "Fencing off the critical root zone -- the area around the tree where roots are most vulnerable to damage from soil compaction -- is key. But where constraints exist that make such fencing off impossible, the foresters discovered some simple ways to lessen the impact of heavy machinery. They found, for example, that simply spreading mulch 8 inches deep and covering it with 3/4 inch plywood distributed the weight of the equipment driving over enough to greatly reduce the amount of soil compaction below."

Tree trimming and care are specialities of our's at Pacific Vista Landscape Services. We can estimate a tree's root system diameter and depth as well as prepare the area with mulch for protection if fencing is not an option. Let us help keep your trees healthy for upcoming years of enjoyment long after the construction is over! 





Friday, June 28, 2013

Southern Californian Cities Focus On Water Conservation and Recycling to Reduce Imported Water

Photo by Susan Embree-Davis
California is the most populated state with nearly 38 million people, about double the population of the late 60's. As the population grew, so did the need for more water and we started importing water from far away sources to supplement our local supply. Not only has this taken a toll on the ecosystems of these sources, like the Colorado River, it has become more and more expensive and, with the demand still growing, some local cities are looking to sustainable long term solutions, like water conservation and recycling, to reduce dependence on water importing.
According to a National Geographic News Watch article 'California Cities to Reduce Water Imports From the Colorado River and Bay-Delta' written by Sandra Postel, "Five southern California cities that today rely heavily on water transferred hundreds of miles from the Colorado River and the San Francisco Bay-Delta are reversing this trend: they aim to cut their dependence on long-distance water imports by ramping up conservation, recycling and reliance on local supplies.

Collectively, water agencies serving Santa Monica, Camarillo, Ventura County, Long Beach and Los Angeles plan to cut their water imports by more than 40 billion gallons a year, enough to meet the annual household demands of 1.1 million people, according to a recent analysis by the Natural Resources Defense Council (NRDC)."

Each city has different reduction ratio goal, with Santa Monica aiming highest at lowering dependence from 84% down to 0% by 2020; they are all looking primarily to conservation and recycling water as well as using local ground and run-off water for non-drinking uses, like land irrigation, to achieve this goal. "The Los Angeles Department of Water and Power (LADWP), which serves 3.9 million residents in the greater L.A. area, plans to diversify its water supply portfolio as it cuts its dependence on imported Colorado River and Bay-Delta water by 35 percent. The LADWP will boost investments in conservation, recycling, stormwater capture and water transfers to make up the difference."
It's about time our cities reduce dependence on imported water and makes the most sense for long term sustainability. At Pacific Vista Landscape Services, we know that everything we can do to help our customers save water while still enjoying a beautiful garden in our desert climate is key. Designing and installing the most advanced irrigation technologies and systems available in conjunction with landscape design, we have saved our clients thousands of dollars while conserving our most precious resource, water!