Showing posts with label garden. Show all posts
Showing posts with label garden. Show all posts

Thursday, October 29, 2015

Coping with the California Drought: Softscapes & Hardscapes

by Pacific Vista Landscape Services
The water-use restrictions in California are forcing property owners to come up with solutions to landscaping that are not only drought-tolerant but also attractive. There are many low-water plants, trees and ground covers that can be used and this is referred to as 'softscape'. In addition, the use of 'hardscape' landscaping includes the use of non-living elements to create pathways, patios and other areas of functional space. Using softscape in combination with hardscape is a creative solution that can produce a beautiful and interesting garden and also save 
valuable water resources and money.  
There are many choices of drought tolerant plants for softscaping that can thrive in Southern California. Mediterranean varieties as well as native plants are among the best suited for our climate. Lavender, thyme and oregano are plants that add beauty and fragrance to a garden and require very little water. Yarrow and California poppy are native plants that also have lower water requirements. Bougainvillea can provide a lovely infusion of color and height on a trellis. Milkweed is a wonderful native plant that helps Monarch butterflies. There are many ornamental grasses like sheep fescue and deergrass, that provide texture and color and can be a great substitute for lawns. Some examples of perennials that have lower water requirements are: mallow, lamb’s ears, catmint, coyote mint, California fuschia and penstemons, to name just a few. Succulents are another good choice for Southern California!                                                      
                                               
While softscaping plants must be chosen to fit the California climate, hardscaping ideas are practically limitless. Rock walls, patios, paths, and boulders are some design elements that can be used. Paths that wander through your garden are inviting and a wonderful way to create depth perception. Pathways can be made of flagstone, concrete, pea gravel, brick, bark, or cobblestone to name a few. Raised planters and divisions can add interest and bring beauty to your design. Adding a water feature with a recirculating pump, like a pond or a birdbath, attracts wildlife and brings tranquility. A garden bench, swing, and patio furniture invites you to relax in your garden. In addition, decks and gazebos are wonderful design elements that can extend your living space into your landscape.

Our professional team at Pacific Vista Landscape Services are experts with creating softscape and hardscape combinations. We can help design, plant, and build your perfect waterwise garden oasis!

Friday, August 28, 2015

The Benefits of Aloe Vera!

by Pacific Vista Landscape Services

Its health benefits are advertised widely and there is good reason. The aloe vera plant has a lot to offer!

The gel from aloe vera can help heal wounds or moisten dry areas. The plant's gel acts like a natural antiseptic by disinfecting the cut or burn and helping it heal. The gel is also a moisturizer for dry lips, elbows, knees, toes, feet, etc. It is often referred to as the "natural healer" or the "miracle plant." Many companies sell products with aloe vera in it but why not have your own supply on hand. Just cut a piece off and squeeze out the gel! 

People are drinking the juice, called aloe water, to gain its benefits internally. Rich in antioxidants and a natural anti-inflammatory, aloe water is thought to aid digestion, strengthen the immune system, help blood circulation, lower cholesterol, among many other health benefits!

Aloe vera is easy to grow! In the beginning, people found this miracle plant in the regions of north-eastern and southern areas of Africa and Madagascar and used it in their daily lives. Now there are over 250 species around the world and its helpful properties are used in many cultures.

Aloe vera is considered semi-tropical and thrives in warm, dry climates. It can grow from the
size of a golf ball to 5 feet across! It is not fast growing and it is easy to take care of. If your plant grows new baby aloes, those can be taken out and grown to another adult plant which is called propagation. It is part of the succulent family and is drought tolerant so it is perfect to grow outdoors in Southern California!

It can also grow indoors in a sunny place. If your aloe vera plant is in a pot, make sure it has plenty of room to grow deep roots. Your pot should also have holes on the bottom to drain extra water as succulents' roots will rot in too much water.


Aloe vera is a very useful plant. From it's health benefits, to being easy to take care of and perfect for Southern California, it's hard to beat!

Thursday, April 30, 2015

WATER RESTRICTIONS UPDATE APRIL 2015


This month California’s Governor Jerry Brown issued an Executive Order to reduce potable urban water use by 25%.  The State Water Board is implementing various restrictions to help reduce the amount of water used by Californians and an estimated 1.5 million acre-feet of water plans to be saved by the end on nine months. The latest water usage restrictions include:
  • Replacing 50 million square feet of lawns throughout the state with drought tolerant landscaping in partnership with local governments
  • Directing the creation of a temporary, statewide consumer rebate program to replace old appliances with more water and energy efficient models
  • Requiring campuses, golf courses, cemeteries and other large landscapes to make significant cuts in water use
  • Prohibiting new homes and developments from irrigating with potable water unless water-efficient drip irrigation systems are used
  • Ban watering of ornamental grass on public street medians
This was in addition to the previous restrictions passed in October 2014 and March 2015 prohibiting Californians from: 
  • Washing down sidewalks and driveways
  • Watering in a way that causes runoff
  • Washing a motor vehicle without a shut-off nozzle on hose 
  • Operating a fountain or water feature that doesn’t recycle water 
  • No watering during rain or 48 hours after rainfall
  • Restaurants only can serve water to customers who ask for it
  • Hotels must give guests the choice of not having their towels and linens washed on a daily basis. 
Across Southern California one can see violations that hopefully will be addressed with the new restrictions. The VA National Cemetery in Westwood, with acres of grass, had their sprinklers on during the rain the other week which violated watering during or 48 hrs after rainfall restriction. LADWP has many offices across the city with grass landscaping and they are offering rebates for people to switch out their grass for drought tolerant landscape! Speaking of grass, If you happen to drive on San Vicente Blvd. around 2 AM, watch out for the sprinklers watering the roughly four miles of grassy median which sprays into the streets, sometimes missing the grass completely and creating huge puddles of wasted water.  Replacing grass in the medians with drought resistant landscaping would save thousands of gallons of water that wouldn’t be wasted watering the grass (or street) every night.  According to the above restrictions, the city of Los Angeles is now banned from watering medians and will hopefully update these areas
with xeriscape in the future.

There are companies who have been pro-active. Anthem Inc. has taken a huge step in the right direction at their Woodland Hills, CA campus where 12.7 acres of lawn were recently removed and replaced with drought-friendly plants. By the end of the year, Anthem Inc. will have saved 12 million gallons of water simply because they removed their lawns.  The funds that were needed to make this change possible were provided by the LADWP.  Hopefully the LADWP will follow in Anthem’s footsteps and be the next to replace lawns that surround their buildings.  

At Pacific Vista Landscape Services, we are experts switching out lawns for native plants and drought tolerant options as well as non-vegetative landscaping additions. We also have the latest smart technology irrigation systems that can save you even more money in rebates. Call us for a free irrigation evaluation and let us help you save water and money AND have a beautifully landscaped garden!

Wednesday, March 18, 2015

THE LATEST WATER RESTRICTIONS FOR SOUTHERN CALIFORNIA

www.inventistmedia.comby Pacific Vista Landscape Services

As California’s water reservoirs continue to shrink, the need to conserve water is growing. According to recent reports, California roughly has about a year of water left. Time is of the essence, and taking action is necessary. People can do their part to conserve water by following the new restrictions passed by the California State Water Resources Control Board on March 17, 2015.

New restrictions were added since the ones previously enforced have done little to change the pace at which California’s water reservoirs are disappearing. Carrying a $500.00 fine, the regulations passed in October 2014 prohibited Californians from: 
  • washing down sidewalks and driveways
  • watering in a way that causes runoff
  • washing a motor vehicle without a shut-off nozzle on hose 
  • operating a fountain or water feature that doesn’t recycle the water 
These will continued to be enforced, and will be joined by new restrictions which were passed on March 172015. The new restrictions include: 
  • no watering during rain or 48 hours after rainfall
  • restaurants only can serve water to customers who ask for it
  • hotels must give guests the choice of not having their towels and linens washed on a daily basis. 
The latest restrictions are heading in the right direction to help decrease the amount of water used in California. However these steps are only the beginning of necessary water restrictions our state will be facing. People can choose to be pro-active; there is no need to wait until it's mandatory to make other cuts in consumption. Water recycling and catchment programs are an essential part of the solution. 

For landscaping, there are many things you can do to cut your water usage and save money: 
At Pacific Vista Landscape Services, we can help create a climate friendly garden. We are experts when it comes to native plants and drought tolerant options as well as non-vegetative landscaping additions. We also provide the latest smart technology in irrigation systems that can also save you even more money in rebates. Call us for a free irrigation evaluation and let us help you save water and money AND have a beautifully landscaped garden!

More info:

Xeriscaping: The Future of Landscaping

Smart Irrigation: Save Water & Money

A Greener Landscape: Re-Landscape with Lawn Rebates in Southern California

 

Thursday, March 5, 2015

Growing Tulips!

by Pacific Vista Landscape Services
Tulips in Southern California!


Tulips are iconic spring flowers. Many people buy a bouquet of tulips at the store, but don’t realize how easy it can be to grow their own! Tulips have vibrant petals that come in many colors as well as incredible color combinations. Plant tulip bulbs in the fall, and by springtime you can enjoy the sight of beautiful blooming tulips in your garden! 

Tulips are hardy and will grow in most climates. Depending on what variety you buy, each bulb will produce one to four blossoms. Tulips don’t like a lot of water which makes them perfect for California! 

Healthy tulip bulbs!
Plan to plant bulbs in the fall when the weather turns cooler. In colder areas, plant bulbs before the first frost and the ground gets too hard. Pick bulbs that are firm and smooth like the ones pictured here. Choose a location that is mostly sunny or has light shade and doesn't get excessive water.

When planting, size matters. The bigger the bulb, the deeper the hole. From the top of bulb, there should be about 8 inches of dirt to the surface. So, if your bulb is around an inch big, then make the hole 9 inches deep.  Place the pointy part of the bulb facing up so it grows the correct way. Be careful when adding dirt back into the hole that the bulb stays pointed upward. Space bulbs about 4 to 6 inches apart, depending on the size of the bulb, because bigger bulbs need more space between them to thrive. 
Gorgeous Tulips!

Tulips are perennials, meaning they can come back more than once. In most climates, though, the soil isn't conducive to more than one year of growth. Also, bulbs usually only contain enough nutrients for it to bloom once. So, if you want the tulips to come back after the first year, place some plant food in the holes before closing them up! Bulbs should be watered when first planted, but after that shouldn’t be watered unless a dry spell occurs. Once planted and watered, the only thing left to do is wait until they bloom in the spring! 

 There is nothing like growing your own tulips and seeing them bloom. Tulips are perfect for adding color to any garden. Put a reminder in your calendar to plant bulbs this fall so by next spring you can enjoy homegrown tulips!
Happy Spring!

Tuesday, January 13, 2015

The Art of Pruning

by Pacific Vista Landscape

It’s winter, so that means it’s time to start pruning! Pruning, the cutting away of branches and stems that are dead or overgrown, is essential when it comes to a tree or shrub’s growth, ability to produce flowers and/or fruit, and its resistance to pests or diseases. With the unnecessary branches and stems gone, there is more energy available to the rest of the plant. This extra energy is used to promote growth and the production of fruit and/or flowers.

Winter is the ideal time to prune most deciduous trees or shrubs because this is when they are dormant and don’t have many leaves that would interfere with pruning. Be aware, not ALL deciduous trees can be pruned in the winter! Avoid pruning maples, birches, dogwoods, walnuts, and elms during the winter because they will begin to ooze sap. This is not only messy, but also dangerous for the tree. Evergreen trees or shrubs shouldn’t be pruned during the winter either because they can develop tip burn in cold 
temperatures. A few examples of deciduous trees or shrubs you SHOULD prune in winter are roses, hydrangeas, spruce, plum, barberry, juniper, mallow, and sumacs. 

To begin pruning, locate any dead, diseased, or overgrown branches that need to be removed. When cutting a branch from a tree, it’s important to cut along the branch collar. The branch collar on a tree is the scrunched up bark where the branch and trunk come together. When cut here, the tree will naturally form a callus. When removing an unwanted branch that is part of larger branch, avoid leaving behind a stump because this can harm the tree.

Pruning also involves thinning the canopy, which means some branches or stems are removed throughout the tree or shrub to increase airflow and enhance the appearance. When thinning the canopy, it’s important to start from the center and work your way out to the exterior. Make sure to pay constant attention to the appearance of the tree or shrub while you are pruning. It’s suggested to cut the tree or shrub with its natural shape in mind and to avoid giving trees a flat top (also known as scalping). Be careful not to take too much of the plant away while pruning, or the plant won’t survive! 

Pruning is essential in maintaining and caring for a deciduous tree or shrub. A tree or shrub’s ability to grow, bloom, and bear fruit is enhanced when pruned properly in winter.

Safety first! If the tree you want to prune is too large or near power lines, then a professional arborist should be contacted. At Pacific Vista Landscape Services, we are pruning experts! Give us a call and we can help with all your tree trimming and landscaping needs!

Wednesday, November 19, 2014

The Science Behind Autumn Leaves Changing Color Explained!

Autumn is known for transforming deciduous trees into magnificent displays of red, yellow, and orange leaves. Unlike evergreens which can endure cold climates because of their foliage’s thick wax coating and the freeze resistant substance within allowing them to hold onto their leaves, deciduous trees have their own way of adjusting to changes in climate.  The leaves of a deciduous tree changes color and eventually falls off, but there is more happening than a change in appearance.  To understand the science behind the change in color of autumn trees, it is important to take a look inside the leaves of a deciduous tree.

The colors of red, yellow, and orange in the leaves of deciduous trees are the result of organic pigments known as carotenoids and anthocyanins.  Carotenoids, a pigment present in the chloroplasts within the cells of leaves, results in the yellow, orange, and even brown shades.  Anthocyanins are produced through exposure to bright light and excess plant sugars in the leaves and they are responsible for the various tones of red in a leaf. During the spring and summer, chlorophyll, which is found in every plant, masks these other pigments with its green color.  Chlorophyll is an important part of photosynthesis, a chemical reaction in the plant that converts energy from sunlight into chemical energy and is essential for plant life.

In autumn, when the nights tend to become longer and colder, deciduous trees senses this change and begin to prepare for the upcoming winter by slowing down and eventually stopping the production of chlorophyll in it's leaves. The absence of chlorophyll exposes the carotenoids and anthocyanins, making the autumn colors of the other pigments visible!  When the chlorophyll is all gone, the tree is able to rid itself of its leaves. This is important because otherwise the leaves would freeze and the tree would not survive.

The changing colors and dropping of the deciduous tree's leaves is key to it making it through the winter.  Without chlorophyll to hide the other pigments, the traditional autumn colors of red, yellow, and orange can be easily seen.  This change in color is not only a beautiful sight, but also a process that has more to it than meets the eye!

Friday, October 17, 2014

California's New Water Regulations

Ponds and waterfalls must recycle water!
Due to California’s 'Mediterranean' climate, it is normal for the state to experience dry periods. However, in these past few years, scarcely any rain has fallen in California, which has lead to a severe drought. A drought occurs when an area’s precipitation decreases, which causes a water shortage. In an effort to limit water usage during our severe drought, statewide regulations have been issued this year.

Regulations are being enforced concerning water usage, and a violation of these rules could result in a $500 fine. Watering driveways or sidewalks is strictly prohibited, along with the watering of personal property IF it causes water runoff. You can still water, but there are regulations on how water can be used. For example, if you want to wash your car, the hose you use must have a shut-off nozzle and any ponds, fountains or other water features on your property must recycle water.

Example of water waste!
Depending on where you live in California, the rules and regulations vary. However, there are general rules that are enforced in most areas. You can only water outside two days a week during the winter, three during the summer, and during certain hours. These hours are in the early morning, late afternoon, and night. Watering during midday allows for higher evaporation and less ground absorption which is counterproductive. In severely affected areas, water usage is already limited to 50 gallons per individual in a household. Those who exceed the limits or have blatant water waste, are subject to a $500 fine as well as being charged 160% higher rates for water usage.

If the drought continues and people don’t make an attempt to conserve water, stricter water regulations will be enforced overall. An example of this would only being able to water one day of the week and more areas having usage limits and higher rates. The drought doesn’t seem like it will be over anytime soon, and to replenish water reservoirs and put an end to the drought California would roughly need around a foot of rainwater. Since it is impossible to change the weather, the only thing people can do to help is conserve water and follow the regulations that have been enforced.

We are here to help! At Pacific Vista Landscape Services, we are experts on irrigation and drought resistant landscaping, read more here:
http://landscape-and-property-news.blogspot.com/2014/03/smart-irrigation-save-water-money.html 
There are also rebates programs that can help mitigate the cost for changing lawns to drought resistant landscaping and updating irrigation systems covered here:
http://landscape-and-property-news.blogspot.com/2013/12/a-greener-landscape-re-landscape-with.html
Call us for a free irrigation evaluation and let us help you save water and money AND have a beautifully landscaped garden!

Thursday, September 4, 2014

Attracting Pollinators to Your Garden!

by Pacific Vista Landscape Services
Photo by Kristina Lawrence


Three-fourths of the world’s flowering plants and about 35 percent of the world’s food crops depend on pollinators to reproduce. It is estimated that one out of every three bites of food we eat exists because of animal pollinators like bees, butterflies and moths, birds and bats, and beetles and other insects.

During a flower visit, a pollinator may brush against the flower’s reproductive parts, unknowingly depositing pollen from a different flower. The plant then uses the pollen to produce a fruit or seed. Many plants cannot reproduce without pollen carried to them by foraging pollinators so it is a vital part of agriculture.

Planting flowers in your garden can not only provide beauty, but can also be a veritable smorgasbord for pollinators as they prefer a blooming buffet of nectar rich flowers.  There are many to choose from that are heat and drought tolerant, fast growing and colorful.  Many bloom all year long here in Southern California!

Photo by Shannon Palmer
The serenity of sitting on your porch, or peering out your window and seeing the fluttering creatures enjoying your garden cannot be underestimated.  Suddenly your yard looks like the illustration from your favorite picture book! 

Choosing what flowers you plant can actually help create an ecosystem in your own yard. At Pacific Vista Landscape Serviceswe are experts on all types of flowers and adding color to your garden. We are dedicated to maintaining the beauty and value of your landscape!  

Some of the best flowering plants to attract pollinators for Southern California can be found here: http://www.sunset.com/garden/flowers-plants/plants-pollination/view-all

Monday, July 14, 2014

Killing Bugs Naturally and Keeping Your Kids, Pets, and Wildlife Safe!

Rosemary is a natural insecticide. 
by Pacific Vista Landscape Services

Nowadays it’s easy to buy chemicals that will kill unwanted garden insects.  You save your plants from ruin, but at what price?  Many commercial insecticides contain chemicals that are not only hazardous to humans, but they are also dangerous for pets and for wildlife as well. Is there a safer and even a more economical solution? Yes, there is, and it’s potentially right in your pantry!

The following “recipes” will arm you with the ammunition you need to rid your garden of insect pests, and keep your children and pets safe from the effects of nasty chemicals.  All you’ll need is a spray bottle and some common household ingredients!

#1 - Mix 2 tbsp. baby shampoo to 1 gallon of water. Add 2 tbsp. cooking oil and stir to blend. Fill a spray bottle with the solution and spray all plant parts to control insect pests. Repeat every five to seven days.

#2 - Peel two cloves of garlic and four onions and chop coarsely. Place in the blender with 1 qt. water and 2 tbsp. cayenne pepper. Blend until the onions and garlic are pureed. Strain the mixture through cheesecloth or a fine mesh strainer to remove particles. Add the mixture to 2 gallons of water. Mix in 2 tbsp. mild soap flakes and stir to dissolve. Apply to plants with a spray bottle and repeat as needed.

#3 - Fill a plastic half-gallon milk container with water, leaving about 2 inches at the top. Blend two or three strong chili peppers, such as habaneros or Thai chili peppers, in a blender with 1 cup of water. Next, strain the chili pepper as you pour the contents of the blender into the half-gallon milk container. Shake the container to distribute the pepper oils and let it stand for one day. Transfer the chili pepper mixture into a spray bottle when you're ready to use it.


 #4 - Place 4 ounces of fresh rosemary at the bottom of the clear glass jar. Pour in enough safflower oil to cover the herbs. Close the jar with the cover and place in a warm, sunny spot for at least two days.  Open the jar and pour oil through the strainer into the measuring cup. Discard the remaining herbs.  Pour 2 ounces of the strained oil into the spray bottle. Add 2 ounces of liquid soap and 8 ounces of water.  Shake bottle until mixture is blended. Shake the bottle before every use, because the components will separate.  Spray evenly over the plants to be treated. Hold the bottle at least 12 inches away from the plants when you spray.

Varying the “natural” insecticide you use can help its efficacy over time. Use one of these “recipes” for awhile, and then mix up another one.  You’ll save money and have peace of mind!

Wednesday, April 23, 2014

The Cherry Trees in Washington D.C.

Washington Monument & Cherry trees
Photo courtesy of Nation Park Service

It is that time of year again when thousands of bare cherry blossom trees awaken from their cold slumber in Washington DC and dawn their colorful flowers. Once dormant and colorless, the cherry blossom trees begin to sprout millions of pink and white flowers that dazzle West Potomac Park, Hains Point, and the Washington Memorial in vibrant colors. During this time, 1.5 million people travel to Washington DC to attend the Cherry Blossom Festival and admire the gorgeous scenery.

Time for a quick history lesson! Let’s go back a century to when the cherry blossom trees first came to the U.S. In 1910, 2,000 trees were sent to Washington DC as a gift from Japan. Unfortunately upon arrival, the Department of Agriculture discovered that the trees were diseased and had to be destroyed as soon as possible. Two years later, Japan sent 3,000 healthy cherry blossom trees to make up for the previously diseased ones. This beautiful gift contained a variety of different cherry
Cherry tree inspection
photo courtesy of U.S.National Arboretum
blossoms, such as somei-yoshino and jonioi cherry blossoms. The first two trees were planted on the north bank of the Tidal Basin in West Potomac Park. First Lady Helen Herron Taft and Viscountess Chinda, the wife of the Japanese ambassador, had the honor of planting these two trees. Workmen then continued to plant the remainder of the trees, which would provide a breath taking sight for years to come.

To remember Japan’s gift to the U.S., the tree planting ceremony was re-enacted by Washington school children in 1927. Celebration and admiration of the gorgeous cherry blossom trees did not stop there; in 1935 the first “Cherry Blossom Festival” was held and sponsored by numerous civic groups. This festival would occur annually, and soon grow from days to weeks. Not only did the Cherry Blossom Festival grow, but so did the relationship between Japan and the U.S. Over the years, gifts have continued to be exchanged between the two countries. Examples of such gifts include when the U.S. gave Japan flowering dogwood trees, as well as cuttings from the cherry blossom trees originally gifted in order to replace trees Japan had lost in a flood. In 1965, the U.S. received 3,800 Yoshino cherry blossom trees from Japan, which would be planted on the grounds of the Washington Monument.

If you happen to be one of the millions of tourists that go to Washington DC each year to see the Cherry Blossom Festival, take a minute to remember what significance the cherry blossom trees hold. Not only are they beautiful, delicate, and extraordinary, they are a symbol of the friendship between the U.S. and Japan.

Sources:

            

Friday, February 21, 2014

Rose Spotlight: The Native California Wild Rose


by Pacific Vista Landscape Services
Native California wild rose and rose hips

One of the advantages to living in California is that our climate is perfect for growing many types of beautiful plants, including roses. Roses do well here because of the sunny weather and dry air which reduces fungal issues and diseases that can plague roses. There are many beautiful varieties of roses, in all colors and sizes, it's no wonder that roses are widely cultivated and so popular today. However, roses were in California long before people. Taking a look back to the 'root' of roses, uncovers a wonderful native variety known as the Californian wild rose.

There is fossil evidence that the very first roses in North America, known as the wild rose, dates back 35 million years ago and are related to the species we know today. Interestingly, wild roses were also found in Asia dating back 70 million years ago and scientists are not sure why they only grew wild in the Northern Hemisphere. Unlike the modern day rose with many petals, the wild rose has five petals and is open-faced and quite hardy.

The California wild rose is prolific in California and Oregon, growing wildly usually near deep water sources. It is considered to be a 'keystone' species which is a plant that is relied on by other plants, animals, birds and insects that inhabit the area. It supports pollinators like bees and butterflies and is a favorite nesting plant for songbirds. It has a long blooming season from spring into summer and the blooms are wonderfully fragrant.
     
Another interesting attribute is the tiny fruit it provides deep into winter.  Called rose hips, they looks like small red crab apples and contain the rose seeds. They are high in vitamin C and also contains vitamins A, B-3, D and E as well as bioflavonoids.  It is an important food source for birds and animals, was regularly used by the Native Americans, and is widely used today in supplements, teas, and recipes.

The California wild rose is hardy, easy to grow and is relatively pest free. Unlike it's newer relatives, it is drought tolerant once established. It does well in a wide range of soil types and is best planted in medium to large areas. It spreads by sending out underground runner roots and its deep roots make a good barrier from other invasive plants. Plus it will attract bees and butterflies to your garden and maybe a songbird or two!



Wednesday, November 6, 2013

Tree Care: TLC For Your Tree!

Eucalyptus Tree photo by Inventist Media
by Pacific Vista Landscape Services

One of the most important services we provide at Pacific Vista Landscape is tree care. Trees bring beauty to a property and increased value. They also absorb noise and pollution and clean the air we breathe. A healthy tree can last years, even centuries and beyond. California has some of the oldest living trees; like the Giant Sequoia Redwoods which are around a few thousand years old and the Bristlecone Pine which grows in the mountains of Southern California and can live up to five thousand years! Proper care can ensure that your trees have optimal health and are enjoyed for generations to come. 

Trees are susceptible to many forms of stress including; wind, rain, disease and pest damage. These stresses can be minimized by implementing a routine maintenance program for trees. A proper tree care program will allow fluid growth patterns and wind penetration. This will condition your trees for long term healthy development.

Proper pruning is key to a good tree care program. It can also aid in keeping a view from being obstructed or maintaining healthy coverage from an unsightly view. The best time to prune trees depends on the variety but often it is in the dormant season, usually fall and winter. Pruning during the dormant period minimizes sap loss and subsequent stress to the tree. It also minimizes the risk of fungus infection or insect infestation as both fungi and insects are likely to be in dormancy at the same time as the tree. At Pacific Vista Landscape, all of our pruning practices are based upon the International Society of Arboriculture industry standards and our trained professionals prune trees in accordance with American National Standards Institute (ANSI) A300 Standards. This ensures that you get the finest quality tree care available.

We offer a tree care plan that can meet the needs of every tree on your property by taking into account species, age, and purpose. Our staff will provide you with a complete inventory of all trees and organize these trees on a multiple year tree care plan. We will place the trees on an appropriate frequency to best suit a given species. Call us today for a free quote and see what we can do for your trees!

Friday, September 6, 2013

Landscaping 101: Glossary of Terms

Here are some commonly used terms in landscaping:
by Pacific Vista Landscape Services

Accent:
The use of a plant or object to draw attention to a space.

Acidic soil: 
Soil with a pH value of less than 7.0.

Aeration:
A method of increasing water and oxygen into compact soil by turning and loosening the soil to allow penetration.

Alkaline soil: 
Soil with a pH value of more than 7.0.

Annual:
A plant that completes its life cycle in one year or season.

Apex: 
The tip of a stem.

Arbor: 
A shady garden shelter or bower, often made of rustic wood or latticework on which vines, roses, etc. are grown.

Arboretum:
A landscaped space where trees, shrubs, and herbaceous plants are cultivated for scientific study, educational purposes, and to foster appreciation of plants.

Axil:
The area between a leaf and the stem from which the leaf arises.

Bacillus Thuringiensis(BT):
Biological Control

Beneficial Biological Controls:
Insects and organic chemicals

Biennial:
A plant that typically takes two years to complete it's life cycle.


Budding:
A form of asexual reproduction in which a new organism develops from an outgrowth or bud on another one.

Bulb:
An underground plant structure that contains nutrients, energy and seed to produce a plant.

Cambrium Layer:
The thin layer of growing cells between the xylem and phloem.

Chlorosis:
Iron deficiency

Clay:
A soil particle which is plate-like, extremely small and may retain nutrients well.

Clod:
A lump of clay which is difficult to break apart.

Cold Hardy:
Capable of withstanding cold weather conditions.

Compost:
A soil product created from decomposed garden material, used in flower beds to add nutrients and encourage good growth.

Cultivar:
A cultivated variety of a plant selected for some feature that distinguishes it from 
the species from which it was selected.

Cultivation:
Turning the soil to provide better air circulation or to control weeds.

Dead Heading:
Removing dead flowers before they set seed.

Deciduous:
Having leaves that fall off or are shed 
seasonally to avoid adverse weather conditions such as cold or drought.

Defoliation:
The process when a plant looses all its leaves.

Dethatching:
Removing thatches in grass; removal of the dead grass.


Die Back:
Tips of branches decline due to lack of moisture or disease.

Dormancey:
When a plant reaches a dormant period, usually in winter.

Drainage:
The downward movement of water passing through soil.


Drip Line:
Outmost branch tips where the water would land to feed the tree.

Drought Tolerant:
The ability of a plant to thrive without much water.


Epiphyte:
A plant that lives on a host plant but draws nutrients from the air.

Espalier:
A flat or fan like like trellis.

Established Plant:
When the plant is fully rooted.

Evergreen:
A plant whose leaves or needles are green year-round.

Fertilizer:
A material added to feed plants rich in nutrients, usually nitrogen (often lost with frequent mowing), phosphates and potash.

Fescue:
Soft compact fine-leafed grasses.


Flower Form:
Structure of a flower, i.e. single, semi, double.

Foundation Plant: plant that is used to frame around a house or structure and connect it to the rest of the landscape.

Frond:
A large leaf with multiple divisions.

Fungicide:
The chemical used to control a fungus-related disease.

Germination:
The sprouting of a seed, spore or pollen grain.


Genus:
A subdivion of a family or subfamily in the classification of organisms.

Girdling:
Also called ring-barking, is the removal of bark around the circumference of the tree in a ring. The result is a slow death to the part of the tree or woody plant above the damage.

Grading:
The process of changing the slope level of an area of soil.


Grafting:
Combining the vascular tissues of two plants to form a hybrid by placing a portion of one plant (called a bud or scion) into or on a stem, root, or branch of another (called the stock) in such a way that a union forms and the partners continue to grow.

Ground Cover:
Plants which are low-growing and create a blanket appearance over an area.


Growing Season:
The period each year when the plant grows.

Hardscape:

Walkways, planters, and areas made of hard material like concrete or rocks that is incorporated into the landscape and balances with the 'softscape'.

Hardy:
Plants that can survive difficult conditions like frost and severe cold.

Hedge:
A variety of shrubs that when planted close together will give a wall-like appearance; often used to separate areas.


Herbaceous:
Having little or no woody tissue. Most plants grown as perennials or annuals are herbaceous.

Herbicide:
A chemical used to control weeds.


Horticulture:
The science of growing plants, flowers, trees, shrubs, fruit, & grasses.

Hybrid:
A plant or group of plants that results from the interbreeding of two distinct cultivars, 
varieties, species, or genera.

Indigenous:
Occurring naturally in a particular place. Native.

Iron:
A mineral used in keeping grass green.

Irrigation: 

Applying water to vegetation and landscape to help it thrive.

Leader:
The primary shoot of a plant.

Leaf Burn:
A plant disease that causes a burnt appearance.

Leaf Mold:
A fungal disease of plants in which mold develops on the leaves.

Lime:
Calcium material used to raise the pH in soil.

Macronutrients:
Essential elements needed in large amounts for healthy plant growth: nitrogen, phosphorus, calcium, magnesium, and sulfur.


Micro Climate:
The climate of a small area that is different than the climate of the surrounding area.

Micronutrients:
Essential elements needed in very small amounts for healthy plant growth: iron, copper, zinc, boron, molybdenum, chlorine, and cobalt.

Mulch:
A material used to cover soil for moisture conservation and weed suppression.

Native Plant:
A plant that lives or grows naturally in a particular region without direct or indirect 
human intervention. Indigenous.

Node:
The part of a plant stem from which one or more leaves emerge.

Organic Fertilizer:
Compounds derived from decomposition of plant and animal products and include blood meal, bone meal, manure, and sewage sludge.


Organic Matter:
Biological material in the process of decaying or decomposing.

Osmosis:
When water travels across a membrane.


Peatmoss:
A bog like moss processed to be used in potting soils and helps assimilate nutrients for the plant.

Perennial:
Persisting for several years, usually dying back to a perennial crown during the winter and initiating new growth each spring.

Pesticide:
A chemical used to control an organism.

pH:
The acidity and alkalinity of soil.


Phloem: 
One of the two types of transport tissue in vascular plants, xylem is the other.

Photosynthesis:
The process in which plants convert sunlight energy into chemical energy that can be used as fuel to aid in plant development.

Planter:
The defined area, commonly raised and composed of wood or concrete, used to grow plants.


Plant Family:
A plant that belongs to a family that shares the same broad characterisitcs.

Polladring:
A pruning meathod in which a a tree's top branches are cut back to the trunk so that it may produce a dense growth of new shoots.

Pollen:
A fine powdery substance consisting of microscopic grains discharged from the male part of a flower or from a male cone.

Pollenation:
The process in which pollen is transferred.

Pollenator Bees:
Bees that transfer pollen.

Pollenizer:
A plant that supplies pollen.

Pruning:
A method of cutting parts of a plant off to control size, health and appearance.

Pseudo Bulb:
A storage organ derived from the part of a stem between two leaf nodes.

Re-foliate:
Term used for when a plant grows new leaves after a leafless period, usually in the spring.


Rhizome:
A horizontal, usually underground stem that often sends out roots and shoots from its nodes.

Root Bound:
A plant that has grown too large for its container resulting in matting or tangling of the roots.

Rootstock:
The part of a budded or grafted plant that furnishes the root system. Also called 'understock'.

Rosette:
A circular arrangement of leaves or petals.

Scion:
A detached shoot or twig used in grafting.

Shrub:
A low-growing woody plant, usually under 15 feet that often has multiple stems.

Shock:
A term used to describe a plant that has been impacted by change, i.e. transplanting, weather, too much or too little water, frost, etc.


Sod:
Small areas of turf ready for transplant to new locations. Often used to start a new lawn.

Softscape:

Vegetation used in landscaping which balances with 'hardscape'. Includes trees, flowers, grasses, shrubs. 

Species:
Plant organisms with similar traits capable of off-spring.

Specimen:
An individual plant used to represent a class or genus or plants.

Sphagnum:
A genus of 120 species of mosses, commonly called peat moss, that survives well in wet, acidic soil.

Spore: 
Typically a one-celled, reproductive unit capable of giving rise to a new individual plant.

Spur:
A projecting root or branch.

Standard:
A tree or shrub that grows to full height.

Stolon:
A stem, at or just below the surface of the ground, that produces new plants from buds at it's tips or nodes.

Stress:
The negative impact of non-living forces on a plant.

Sucker:
A secondary shoot produced from the base or roots of a woody plant that gives rise to a new plant.

Tap Root:
An enlarged root, that grows downward and forms a center which other roots sprout laterally.

Tender:
A delicate plant that is usually sensitive to frost or severe cold.

Temperature Tolerance:
Cold or heat, the degree at which a plant can handle temperatures and survive.

Thatch:
The live or dead layer of roots and stems between the turf of a lawn and the soil.


Thinning:
Pruning or removing some branches in a uniform way throughout a tree or shrub.

Topiary:
A decorative style of plant growth controlled by shaping with pruning or shearing.

Transplant:
Moving a plant from one location to another.

Tree:
A woody perennial plant having a single, usually elongated main stem or trunk with 
few or no branches on its lower part.

Tuber:
A thickened, underground stem or rhizome which stores nutrients.

Turf:
A ground cover of grass.

Variegation:
A pattern of leaves that contains either white or yellow markings.


Variety:
A sub-species of plant.

Vegetation:
A general term for all plant life.

Water Sprout:
A nonflowering shoot arising from a branch or axil of a tree or shrub.

Wildflower:
A herbaceous plant that is native to a given area and is representative of unselected 

forms of its species.

Woody Plant:
A plant with persistent woody parts that do not die back in adverse conditions. Most 
woody plants are trees or shrubs.

Xylem: One of the two types of transport tissue in vascular plants, phloem is the other.