Showing posts with label tips. Show all posts
Showing posts with label tips. Show all posts

Thursday, April 30, 2015

WATER RESTRICTIONS UPDATE APRIL 2015


This month California’s Governor Jerry Brown issued an Executive Order to reduce potable urban water use by 25%.  The State Water Board is implementing various restrictions to help reduce the amount of water used by Californians and an estimated 1.5 million acre-feet of water plans to be saved by the end on nine months. The latest water usage restrictions include:
  • Replacing 50 million square feet of lawns throughout the state with drought tolerant landscaping in partnership with local governments
  • Directing the creation of a temporary, statewide consumer rebate program to replace old appliances with more water and energy efficient models
  • Requiring campuses, golf courses, cemeteries and other large landscapes to make significant cuts in water use
  • Prohibiting new homes and developments from irrigating with potable water unless water-efficient drip irrigation systems are used
  • Ban watering of ornamental grass on public street medians
This was in addition to the previous restrictions passed in October 2014 and March 2015 prohibiting Californians from: 
  • Washing down sidewalks and driveways
  • Watering in a way that causes runoff
  • Washing a motor vehicle without a shut-off nozzle on hose 
  • Operating a fountain or water feature that doesn’t recycle water 
  • No watering during rain or 48 hours after rainfall
  • Restaurants only can serve water to customers who ask for it
  • Hotels must give guests the choice of not having their towels and linens washed on a daily basis. 
Across Southern California one can see violations that hopefully will be addressed with the new restrictions. The VA National Cemetery in Westwood, with acres of grass, had their sprinklers on during the rain the other week which violated watering during or 48 hrs after rainfall restriction. LADWP has many offices across the city with grass landscaping and they are offering rebates for people to switch out their grass for drought tolerant landscape! Speaking of grass, If you happen to drive on San Vicente Blvd. around 2 AM, watch out for the sprinklers watering the roughly four miles of grassy median which sprays into the streets, sometimes missing the grass completely and creating huge puddles of wasted water.  Replacing grass in the medians with drought resistant landscaping would save thousands of gallons of water that wouldn’t be wasted watering the grass (or street) every night.  According to the above restrictions, the city of Los Angeles is now banned from watering medians and will hopefully update these areas
with xeriscape in the future.

There are companies who have been pro-active. Anthem Inc. has taken a huge step in the right direction at their Woodland Hills, CA campus where 12.7 acres of lawn were recently removed and replaced with drought-friendly plants. By the end of the year, Anthem Inc. will have saved 12 million gallons of water simply because they removed their lawns.  The funds that were needed to make this change possible were provided by the LADWP.  Hopefully the LADWP will follow in Anthem’s footsteps and be the next to replace lawns that surround their buildings.  

At Pacific Vista Landscape Services, we are experts switching out lawns for native plants and drought tolerant options as well as non-vegetative landscaping additions. We also have the latest smart technology irrigation systems that can save you even more money in rebates. Call us for a free irrigation evaluation and let us help you save water and money AND have a beautifully landscaped garden!

Wednesday, March 18, 2015

THE LATEST WATER RESTRICTIONS FOR SOUTHERN CALIFORNIA

www.inventistmedia.comby Pacific Vista Landscape Services

As California’s water reservoirs continue to shrink, the need to conserve water is growing. According to recent reports, California roughly has about a year of water left. Time is of the essence, and taking action is necessary. People can do their part to conserve water by following the new restrictions passed by the California State Water Resources Control Board on March 17, 2015.

New restrictions were added since the ones previously enforced have done little to change the pace at which California’s water reservoirs are disappearing. Carrying a $500.00 fine, the regulations passed in October 2014 prohibited Californians from: 
  • washing down sidewalks and driveways
  • watering in a way that causes runoff
  • washing a motor vehicle without a shut-off nozzle on hose 
  • operating a fountain or water feature that doesn’t recycle the water 
These will continued to be enforced, and will be joined by new restrictions which were passed on March 17, 2015. The new restrictions include: 
  • no watering during rain or 48 hours after rainfall
  • restaurants only can serve water to customers who ask for it
  • hotels must give guests the choice of not having their towels and linens washed on a daily basis. 
The latest restrictions are heading in the right direction to help decrease the amount of water used in California. However these steps are only the beginning of necessary water restrictions our state will be facing. People can choose to be pro-active; there is no need to wait until it's mandatory to make other cuts in consumption. Water recycling and catchment programs are an essential part of the solution. 

For landscaping, there are many things you can do to cut your water usage and save money: 
At Pacific Vista Landscape Services, we can help create a climate friendly garden. We are experts when it comes to native plants and drought tolerant options as well as non-vegetative landscaping additions. We also provide the latest smart technology in irrigation systems that can also save you even more money in rebates. Call us for a free irrigation evaluation and let us help you save water and money AND have a beautifully landscaped garden!

More info:

Xeriscaping: The Future of Landscaping

Smart Irrigation: Save Water & Money

A Greener Landscape: Re-Landscape with Lawn Rebates in Southern California

 

Thursday, March 5, 2015

Growing Tulips!

by Pacific Vista Landscape Services
Tulips in Southern California!


Tulips are iconic spring flowers. Many people buy a bouquet of tulips at the store, but don’t realize how easy it can be to grow their own! Tulips have vibrant petals that come in many colors as well as incredible color combinations. Plant tulip bulbs in the fall, and by springtime you can enjoy the sight of beautiful blooming tulips in your garden! 

Tulips are hardy and will grow in most climates. Depending on what variety you buy, each bulb will produce one to four blossoms. Tulips don’t like a lot of water which makes them perfect for California! 

Healthy tulip bulbs!
Plan to plant bulbs in the fall when the weather turns cooler. In colder areas, plant bulbs before the first frost and the ground gets too hard. Pick bulbs that are firm and smooth like the ones pictured here. Choose a location that is mostly sunny or has light shade and doesn't get excessive water.

When planting, size matters. The bigger the bulb, the deeper the hole. From the top of bulb, there should be about 8 inches of dirt to the surface. So, if your bulb is around an inch big, then make the hole 9 inches deep.  Place the pointy part of the bulb facing up so it grows the correct way. Be careful when adding dirt back into the hole that the bulb stays pointed upward. Space bulbs about 4 to 6 inches apart, depending on the size of the bulb, because bigger bulbs need more space between them to thrive. 
Gorgeous Tulips!

Tulips are perennials, meaning they can come back more than once. In most climates, though, the soil isn't conducive to more than one year of growth. Also, bulbs usually only contain enough nutrients for it to bloom once. So, if you want the tulips to come back after the first year, place some plant food in the holes before closing them up! Bulbs should be watered when first planted, but after that shouldn’t be watered unless a dry spell occurs. Once planted and watered, the only thing left to do is wait until they bloom in the spring! 

 There is nothing like growing your own tulips and seeing them bloom. Tulips are perfect for adding color to any garden. Put a reminder in your calendar to plant bulbs this fall so by next spring you can enjoy homegrown tulips!
Happy Spring!

Tuesday, January 13, 2015

The Art of Pruning

by Pacific Vista Landscape

It’s winter, so that means it’s time to start pruning! Pruning, the cutting away of branches and stems that are dead or overgrown, is essential when it comes to a tree or shrub’s growth, ability to produce flowers and/or fruit, and its resistance to pests or diseases. With the unnecessary branches and stems gone, there is more energy available to the rest of the plant. This extra energy is used to promote growth and the production of fruit and/or flowers.

Winter is the ideal time to prune most deciduous trees or shrubs because this is when they are dormant and don’t have many leaves that would interfere with pruning. Be aware, not ALL deciduous trees can be pruned in the winter! Avoid pruning maples, birches, dogwoods, walnuts, and elms during the winter because they will begin to ooze sap. This is not only messy, but also dangerous for the tree. Evergreen trees or shrubs shouldn’t be pruned during the winter either because they can develop tip burn in cold 
temperatures. A few examples of deciduous trees or shrubs you SHOULD prune in winter are roses, hydrangeas, spruce, plum, barberry, juniper, mallow, and sumacs. 

To begin pruning, locate any dead, diseased, or overgrown branches that need to be removed. When cutting a branch from a tree, it’s important to cut along the branch collar. The branch collar on a tree is the scrunched up bark where the branch and trunk come together. When cut here, the tree will naturally form a callus. When removing an unwanted branch that is part of larger branch, avoid leaving behind a stump because this can harm the tree.

Pruning also involves thinning the canopy, which means some branches or stems are removed throughout the tree or shrub to increase airflow and enhance the appearance. When thinning the canopy, it’s important to start from the center and work your way out to the exterior. Make sure to pay constant attention to the appearance of the tree or shrub while you are pruning. It’s suggested to cut the tree or shrub with its natural shape in mind and to avoid giving trees a flat top (also known as scalping). Be careful not to take too much of the plant away while pruning, or the plant won’t survive! 

Pruning is essential in maintaining and caring for a deciduous tree or shrub. A tree or shrub’s ability to grow, bloom, and bear fruit is enhanced when pruned properly in winter.

Safety first! If the tree you want to prune is too large or near power lines, then a professional arborist should be contacted. At Pacific Vista Landscape Services, we are pruning experts! Give us a call and we can help with all your tree trimming and landscaping needs!

Friday, January 10, 2014

Xeriscaping: The Future of Landscaping

Xeriscape photo by Inventist Media

by Pacific Vista Landscape Services

What is a xeriscape? The term comes from the Greek word 'xeros' which means 'dry' combined with 'scape' meaning 'dry landscape' but really it means landscaping with plants that need minimal water. Since about 70 percent of the water consumed by an average single-family home is used outdoors, the best place to start conserving water is in your garden. However, xeriscaping with plants that do not need a lot of water does not mean your garden has to look desolate!

Southwestern states have been xeriscaping the longest due to the fact that they have dry climates and it makes sense to not fight mother nature by growing high maintenance gardens and lawns. But with water becoming a diminishing resource everywhere, other states throughout the U.S. are now xeriscaping too. Luckily, in Southern California, we have many drought resistant native plants and a climate that allows us to use low water plants from other similar dry climates like Australia, South Africa, the Middle East, and Mediterranean areas. Many of these plants are lush and beautiful and visually completely different than a typical southwest garden of cacti and rocks. There are many wonderful options and we live in the perfect place for xeriscaping!

Water is still necessary with xeriscapes, especially when plants are new. However they become more drought resistant once established. Many drought tolerant native plants in the wild naturally have deep roots as part of their survival. New, nursery bought plants in pots will take a couple years at minimum to achieve the same deeper root systems as their counterparts in the wild. Xeriscapes work well with low-pressure systems that deliver water right to the roots of the plants but don't go everywhere. A sub-surface water source not only feeds the roots without wasting it on the surface where it can evaporate, it encourages the roots to grow deeper beyond the root ball which ultimately makes it hardier and more drought resistant in the future. Once roots are established, they will require even less supplemental water.

Another important component to xeriscaping is using a ground cover like gravel or mulch. Mulch can be made from organic materials including leaves, grass clippings, straw, shredded bark, sawdust, wood chips, and cardboard. There is also rubber mulch made from recycled tires which does not decompose quickly. Ground cover does a multiple of jobs when it comes to xeriscaping. Most importantly, it helps keep the moisture in the soil and keeps the ground cooler in the summer. It also keeps weeds from competing with plants for water and nutrients.

Xeriscapes are most stunning when designed with a combination of softscapes and hardscapes. Softscape refers to trees, bushes, plants, ground cover, and the living aspects of the garden. Hardscape is the addition of pathways, planters, and outdoor living areas that can make your garden more inviting, accessible, and visually interesting. Hardscapes also mean less softscapes, and less water. The key is to design a layout that is a balance of the two so that your garden complements your home and is low maintenance; saving you water and money!

Our team at Pacific Vista Landscape Services are experts when it comes to xeriscaping and knowing the vast variety of drought resistant plant options. We can work with you to design incredible soft and hardscapes to enhance your property which not only look great but could qualify you for a rebate from your local water company. (See our last article 'A Greener Landscape: Re-Landscape with Lawn Rebates in Southern California'.) We are also certified experts installing smart-water irrigation systems that are efficient and cost effective and are rebate worthy too! Having a beautiful, low maintenance garden makes sense now and in the future!

Friday, September 6, 2013

Landscaping 101: Glossary of Terms

Here are some commonly used terms in landscaping:
by Pacific Vista Landscape Services

Accent:
The use of a plant or object to draw attention to a space.

Acidic soil: 
Soil with a pH value of less than 7.0.

Aeration:
A method of increasing water and oxygen into compact soil by turning and loosening the soil to allow penetration.

Alkaline soil: 
Soil with a pH value of more than 7.0.

Annual:
A plant that completes its life cycle in one year or season.

Apex: 
The tip of a stem.

Arbor: 
A shady garden shelter or bower, often made of rustic wood or latticework on which vines, roses, etc. are grown.

Arboretum:
A landscaped space where trees, shrubs, and herbaceous plants are cultivated for scientific study, educational purposes, and to foster appreciation of plants.

Axil:
The area between a leaf and the stem from which the leaf arises.

Bacillus Thuringiensis(BT):
Biological Control

Beneficial Biological Controls:
Insects and organic chemicals

Biennial:
A plant that typically takes two years to complete it's life cycle.


Budding:
A form of asexual reproduction in which a new organism develops from an outgrowth or bud on another one.

Bulb:
An underground plant structure that contains nutrients, energy and seed to produce a plant.

Cambrium Layer:
The thin layer of growing cells between the xylem and phloem.

Chlorosis:
Iron deficiency

Clay:
A soil particle which is plate-like, extremely small and may retain nutrients well.

Clod:
A lump of clay which is difficult to break apart.

Cold Hardy:
Capable of withstanding cold weather conditions.

Compost:
A soil product created from decomposed garden material, used in flower beds to add nutrients and encourage good growth.

Cultivar:
A cultivated variety of a plant selected for some feature that distinguishes it from 
the species from which it was selected.

Cultivation:
Turning the soil to provide better air circulation or to control weeds.

Dead Heading:
Removing dead flowers before they set seed.

Deciduous:
Having leaves that fall off or are shed 
seasonally to avoid adverse weather conditions such as cold or drought.

Defoliation:
The process when a plant looses all its leaves.

Dethatching:
Removing thatches in grass; removal of the dead grass.


Die Back:
Tips of branches decline due to lack of moisture or disease.

Dormancey:
When a plant reaches a dormant period, usually in winter.

Drainage:
The downward movement of water passing through soil.


Drip Line:
Outmost branch tips where the water would land to feed the tree.

Drought Tolerant:
The ability of a plant to thrive without much water.


Epiphyte:
A plant that lives on a host plant but draws nutrients from the air.

Espalier:
A flat or fan like like trellis.

Established Plant:
When the plant is fully rooted.

Evergreen:
A plant whose leaves or needles are green year-round.

Fertilizer:
A material added to feed plants rich in nutrients, usually nitrogen (often lost with frequent mowing), phosphates and potash.

Fescue:
Soft compact fine-leafed grasses.


Flower Form:
Structure of a flower, i.e. single, semi, double.

Foundation Plant: plant that is used to frame around a house or structure and connect it to the rest of the landscape.

Frond:
A large leaf with multiple divisions.

Fungicide:
The chemical used to control a fungus-related disease.

Germination:
The sprouting of a seed, spore or pollen grain.


Genus:
A subdivion of a family or subfamily in the classification of organisms.

Girdling:
Also called ring-barking, is the removal of bark around the circumference of the tree in a ring. The result is a slow death to the part of the tree or woody plant above the damage.

Grading:
The process of changing the slope level of an area of soil.


Grafting:
Combining the vascular tissues of two plants to form a hybrid by placing a portion of one plant (called a bud or scion) into or on a stem, root, or branch of another (called the stock) in such a way that a union forms and the partners continue to grow.

Ground Cover:
Plants which are low-growing and create a blanket appearance over an area.


Growing Season:
The period each year when the plant grows.

Hardscape:

Walkways, planters, and areas made of hard material like concrete or rocks that is incorporated into the landscape and balances with the 'softscape'.

Hardy:
Plants that can survive difficult conditions like frost and severe cold.

Hedge:
A variety of shrubs that when planted close together will give a wall-like appearance; often used to separate areas.


Herbaceous:
Having little or no woody tissue. Most plants grown as perennials or annuals are herbaceous.

Herbicide:
A chemical used to control weeds.


Horticulture:
The science of growing plants, flowers, trees, shrubs, fruit, & grasses.

Hybrid:
A plant or group of plants that results from the interbreeding of two distinct cultivars, 
varieties, species, or genera.

Indigenous:
Occurring naturally in a particular place. Native.

Iron:
A mineral used in keeping grass green.

Irrigation: 

Applying water to vegetation and landscape to help it thrive.

Leader:
The primary shoot of a plant.

Leaf Burn:
A plant disease that causes a burnt appearance.

Leaf Mold:
A fungal disease of plants in which mold develops on the leaves.

Lime:
Calcium material used to raise the pH in soil.

Macronutrients:
Essential elements needed in large amounts for healthy plant growth: nitrogen, phosphorus, calcium, magnesium, and sulfur.


Micro Climate:
The climate of a small area that is different than the climate of the surrounding area.

Micronutrients:
Essential elements needed in very small amounts for healthy plant growth: iron, copper, zinc, boron, molybdenum, chlorine, and cobalt.

Mulch:
A material used to cover soil for moisture conservation and weed suppression.

Native Plant:
A plant that lives or grows naturally in a particular region without direct or indirect 
human intervention. Indigenous.

Node:
The part of a plant stem from which one or more leaves emerge.

Organic Fertilizer:
Compounds derived from decomposition of plant and animal products and include blood meal, bone meal, manure, and sewage sludge.


Organic Matter:
Biological material in the process of decaying or decomposing.

Osmosis:
When water travels across a membrane.


Peatmoss:
A bog like moss processed to be used in potting soils and helps assimilate nutrients for the plant.

Perennial:
Persisting for several years, usually dying back to a perennial crown during the winter and initiating new growth each spring.

Pesticide:
A chemical used to control an organism.

pH:
The acidity and alkalinity of soil.


Phloem: 
One of the two types of transport tissue in vascular plants, xylem is the other.

Photosynthesis:
The process in which plants convert sunlight energy into chemical energy that can be used as fuel to aid in plant development.

Planter:
The defined area, commonly raised and composed of wood or concrete, used to grow plants.


Plant Family:
A plant that belongs to a family that shares the same broad characterisitcs.

Polladring:
A pruning meathod in which a a tree's top branches are cut back to the trunk so that it may produce a dense growth of new shoots.

Pollen:
A fine powdery substance consisting of microscopic grains discharged from the male part of a flower or from a male cone.

Pollenation:
The process in which pollen is transferred.

Pollenator Bees:
Bees that transfer pollen.

Pollenizer:
A plant that supplies pollen.

Pruning:
A method of cutting parts of a plant off to control size, health and appearance.

Pseudo Bulb:
A storage organ derived from the part of a stem between two leaf nodes.

Re-foliate:
Term used for when a plant grows new leaves after a leafless period, usually in the spring.


Rhizome:
A horizontal, usually underground stem that often sends out roots and shoots from its nodes.

Root Bound:
A plant that has grown too large for its container resulting in matting or tangling of the roots.

Rootstock:
The part of a budded or grafted plant that furnishes the root system. Also called 'understock'.

Rosette:
A circular arrangement of leaves or petals.

Scion:
A detached shoot or twig used in grafting.

Shrub:
A low-growing woody plant, usually under 15 feet that often has multiple stems.

Shock:
A term used to describe a plant that has been impacted by change, i.e. transplanting, weather, too much or too little water, frost, etc.


Sod:
Small areas of turf ready for transplant to new locations. Often used to start a new lawn.

Softscape:

Vegetation used in landscaping which balances with 'hardscape'. Includes trees, flowers, grasses, shrubs. 

Species:
Plant organisms with similar traits capable of off-spring.

Specimen:
An individual plant used to represent a class or genus or plants.

Sphagnum:
A genus of 120 species of mosses, commonly called peat moss, that survives well in wet, acidic soil.

Spore: 
Typically a one-celled, reproductive unit capable of giving rise to a new individual plant.

Spur:
A projecting root or branch.

Standard:
A tree or shrub that grows to full height.

Stolon:
A stem, at or just below the surface of the ground, that produces new plants from buds at it's tips or nodes.

Stress:
The negative impact of non-living forces on a plant.

Sucker:
A secondary shoot produced from the base or roots of a woody plant that gives rise to a new plant.

Tap Root:
An enlarged root, that grows downward and forms a center which other roots sprout laterally.

Tender:
A delicate plant that is usually sensitive to frost or severe cold.

Temperature Tolerance:
Cold or heat, the degree at which a plant can handle temperatures and survive.

Thatch:
The live or dead layer of roots and stems between the turf of a lawn and the soil.


Thinning:
Pruning or removing some branches in a uniform way throughout a tree or shrub.

Topiary:
A decorative style of plant growth controlled by shaping with pruning or shearing.

Transplant:
Moving a plant from one location to another.

Tree:
A woody perennial plant having a single, usually elongated main stem or trunk with 
few or no branches on its lower part.

Tuber:
A thickened, underground stem or rhizome which stores nutrients.

Turf:
A ground cover of grass.

Variegation:
A pattern of leaves that contains either white or yellow markings.


Variety:
A sub-species of plant.

Vegetation:
A general term for all plant life.

Water Sprout:
A nonflowering shoot arising from a branch or axil of a tree or shrub.

Wildflower:
A herbaceous plant that is native to a given area and is representative of unselected 

forms of its species.

Woody Plant:
A plant with persistent woody parts that do not die back in adverse conditions. Most 
woody plants are trees or shrubs.

Xylem: One of the two types of transport tissue in vascular plants, phloem is the other.


Friday, August 9, 2013

Tree Trimming: Palm Trees and Removing Dead Fronds Safely

by Pacific Vista Landscape Services

Photo by Inventist Media
Everywhere we look in Southern California we see palm trees. They're one of our most loved attributes and yet, despite their ubiquity, the only one that is native to our state is the Washingtonia filifera, or more commonly known as the California or Desert Palm Fan. Indigenous or not, tree trimming these palms and removing their dead fronds can be challenging and there are some important considerations in order to keep them looking like the iconic symbol they have become for California.

Palms are not like other trees because they lack secondary growth. This makes trimming them correctly extremely important to avoid structural weakening which cannot be reversed. Since most palms have a singular trunk, any structural weakening of the trunk can make it dangerous to climb and since regular tree trimming standards are not specific to palms, evaluating each palm individually before trimming is a must:
  • Inspect the trunk for any cavities, wounds, bleeding, or 'penciling' which is seen when a trunk narrows and then widens again. These all show lack of structural integrity and the possibility of structural failure.
  • Inspect the roots and soil for decay, disease, or over-exposure.
  • Inspect the trunk for cracks or fissures.
  • Any significant lean to the trunk which makes it unsafe to climb.
  • Evaluate that the crown, where the fronds come out of, is not excessively big for the trunk creating extra top-heavy weight to the trunk which could cause it to fail during trimming.
If a palm is considered unsafe to climb, a lift must be used instead unless there are other structurally sound trees or buildings next to the palm that can be used to access the dead fronds. Trimming dead palm fronds is hard work and can be very dangerous. If there is more than three years of dead growth, it is even more challenging because it must be accessed from the outside of the fronds instead of underneath since a heavy frond skirt can easily come loose and fall straight down taking the climber with it.

Not only does a clean palm tree look much better, dead fronds make a lovely home for snakes and rodents and should be removed every year. It is important that only professional trained tree trimmers are hired. For instance, if spikes are used to climb, it can make holes in the trunk that do not seal over which can lead to wounds, decay, and disease. Keeping the palm structurally healthy is key to years of beauty.

At Pacific Vista Landscape Services, we have professionals who know how safely prune palm trees and ensure they stay healthy for years to come! Call us today for a quote!


Wednesday, July 24, 2013

Easy Perennials for Southern California

Southern California is a grower's paradise for many flowers thanks to our climate. Perennial is latin for 'through' and 'year' meaning that they should last at least a couple years, with flowers growing and blooming in spring and summer, dying back in fall and winter, and coming back the next spring and summer. However, many perennials can continue blooming for many years in Southern California's climate before being replaced. Here are some easy perennials that continue to give beautiful blooms year after year:
Lily of the Nile photo by Mark Imhof


Lily of the Nile (Agapanthus): A striking combination of green foliage with long slender leaves that blooms in summer with a ball of multiple purple, blue, or white mini trumpet flowers on a long stalk that reaches up a few feet tall. Does well in full sun areas and can be divided in clumps to replant.


California Fuchsia photo by Stan Shebs

California Fuchsia (Zauschneria californica): This variety is perfect for hotter parts of So Cal because it is considered heat-resistant. This variety has grey-green leafy foliage and long-blooming bright orange, red and fuchsia flowers that last summer into fall. This variety does benefit from pruning to encourage fuller growth.



Butterfly Iris photo by Kristina Palmer


Butterfly Iris (Dietes bicolor): This perennial does well in sun or shade and in hard to grow spots. However, the sunnier the location, the more blooms. Each bloom has a short life of only about a day but it continuously gives off masses of flowers starting in early spring throughout the summer. It has upward, spiky leaves and does well in many types of soil. This variety can also be split and replanted.


Santa Barbara Daisy photo by Rob D. Brodman


Santa Barbara Daisy (Erigeron karvinskianus): A blooming superstar and fast spreader with grey-green leaves and small, yellowed centered blooms. Petals start off white and mature into pink and purple. It is one of the earliest bloomers in spring and lasts long into fall. These do well in part sun and can be used to cascade in containers and planters. It also attracks beneficial insects!




Although you can plant perennials any time of the year in Southern California, planting perennials in the early fall helps get their root sytem established to bloom strong by spring and summer. At Pacific Vista Landscape Services we are experts on all types of flowers and adding color to your garden. We are dedicated to maintaining the beauty and value of your landscape!




Friday, July 12, 2013

Property Management: Smart Landscaping

http://www.propertymanagementinsider.com/six-property-management-tips-for-creating-a-long-term-landscape-plan.html
Image by Camden Addison
Being smart and thinking long-term when choosing landscaping for a multi-residential property is key for lasting beauty. Landscaping large properties usually incorporates a combination of hard-scape and soft-scapes that look good initially but should also mature well with the site and not lead to expensive replacement issues down the line.

Property Manager Insider's 'Six Property Management Tips for Creating a Long-Term Landscaping Plan' has some great pointers for making smart choices."Those small trees that uniformly frame the clubhouse or the lush grass under a newly planted young Live Oak may look great now, but changes in available light, water supply, and nutrients over the course of several growing seasons could drastically alter the appearance and force you to replace them at additional cost and headache. 

That’s why apartment property owners should consider a long-term landscape plan that will not only minimize expenses but ensure that the community always looks its best several years down the road:

1. Envision the Property’s Horizon

Look at your horizon on the property and set a goal. Is the goal to create as much shade and greenery for the property as possible, or is it maintaining a clean-cut, colorful landscape that needs plenty of sun?


2. Consider Landscape Maturity

Plants will grow to maturity under normal growing conditions. When planning a landscape, property owners should envision what the property will look like as plant life matures and be prepared to make changes as necessary.

Avoid focusing on what a plant or tree looks like when it’s young: installing a young bush or tree that will be much larger at maturity in a small area could lead to larger issues as it grows. Even if trimmed and not allowed to reach its full growth potential, the plant can break down and be susceptible to disease because of the smaller space.


3. Manage Impact of Sun and Shade

Plants and trees compete for water, sunlight, and nutrients and sometimes only the strongest survive. A blooming plant that appears to grow in harmony next to a young tree will struggle as the tree matures and its canopy spreads to 50 feet across, creating more shade than sunlight. Property owners should incorporate into their master plan what the next step will be if a big tree dies or what will happen to blooming material as the tree gets older.


4. Prepare for Changing Conditions

Weather and changing conditions are big factors to consider when developing a long-term plan. Extreme conditions may tempt property owners to abandon the plan and move in a new direction. But conditions that are here today won’t necessarily be around for long. For example, during the recent drought in the southern U.S., water supplies were depleted for several months, damaging many landscapes that were designed with plant life that requires ample water.


5. Commit to Tree Trimming and Maintenance

Whatever the landscape components, maintenance is fundamental in order to stick to the plan. Skipping routine tree trimming, for example, will extend the tree’s canopy and affect the growth of other nearby plant life. Grass and other shrubs may die and require replanting at an additional expense.

6. Look into the Future

Nobody can predict the future, but it’s fairly certain that world water supply will continue to be an issue as the population grows so managing what is becoming a finite water supply is important. You also need to keep in mind that areas will experience once-in-a-century floods and drought, along with colder and warmer than normal temperatures. Plant life will be affected. A long-term plan should consider this important factor and include introducing material best suited for what lies ahead.
"

Whether we are working on a new, complex installation, renovation, or a simple site improvement, our professional crews at Pacific Vista Landscape Services have years of experience using the industry established "best practices" to install both hard-scape and soft-scapes. Pacific Vista delivers the best in workmanship and finest of materials to ensure landscapes retain a lasting beauty. Our team of seasoned pros pay attention to every detail to make certain your vision comes to life!

Monday, June 10, 2013

Southern California: Brush Clearance Time!

In the wake of the Powerhouse Fire, we are all reminded it's that time of year to clear brush in our beautiful Southern California.  Even if you have not received an inspection notice from the Los Angeles Fire Department, do not assume that you do not need to be in compliance. By being proactive, your property will be safer in the event of a fire.

Pacific Vista Landscape Services is here for you to help protect your home by clearing the brush and doing it safely and correctly. The Los Angeles Fire Department website has helpful information for homeowners who are getting ready to clear brush around their homes. It is very important to follow their advice as clearing brush has often led to fires when done incorrectly.


LAFD BRUSH CLEARANCE
SAFETY TIPS FOR HOMEOWNERS:

"Remember that when clearing your brush, safety is very important. In recent
years many brush fires have started by homeowners attempting to clear their
brush. Many times, the sparks produced from metal blades on motorized
equipment has started fires.

The following are simple guidelines for homeowners to follow to clear their brush
safely:

  • Always have a water source readily available. A water extinguisher, garden hose or a few buckets of water. 
  • Avoid clearing brush during the peak temperatures of the day, between 11:00 am and 3:00 pm and on days when a Red Flag Alert* has been declared by the Fire Department.
  • Only use properly maintained motorized equipment and have a spark arrester when required.
  • Do not refuel motorized equipment while motor is running. Use approved fuel-dispensing containers only. 
  • Always make sure the hot exhaust on any motorized equipment is clear of any vegetation. (grasses, weeds, shrubs) 
  • Do not use metal blades on weed whackers/whips. Use nylon line or plastic blades instead.
  • Always wear safety glasses and gloves. Hard hats and dust masks are recommended. 
* Red Flag weather days refer to certain weather conditions that can cause a wild-land fire to
 start and to spread rapidly. These conditions generally exist when the winds exceed 25 mph
 and relative humidity is below 15%."

To see LAFD requirements, click here:
LAFD Sketch of General Requirements

0 to 100 Feet Clearance

100 to 200 Feet Clearance.

For more information, call LAFD at
(818) 374-1111, or visit www.lafd.org/brush .

Pacific Vista Landscape Services is here to help with all you landscaping needs and are experts when it comes to clearing brush. Protect your property as much as possible by being in compliance during this dry fire season. Call us for a quote at 661-222-7525!



Wednesday, June 5, 2013

Rattlesnake Season!

Pacific Vista Landscape Services has eradicated up to 20 rattlesnakes from communities in
Santa Clarita in one year. This year will be one of the worst snake seasons on record experts are predicting thanks to the heavy rains of a few years ago. The snakes are waking up from hibernation and baby snakes are hatching. There are about 300 snakebite cases in California each year. Most bites in California happen between April and October, and they can be fatal.

Do's and don’ts in snake country:                                                      
**Never go barefoot or wear sandals when walking through wild areas. Wear hiking boots.

**When hiking, stick to well-used trails and wear over-the-ankle boots and loose-fitting long pants. Avoid tall grass, weeds and heavy underbrush where snakes may hide during the day.

**Do not step or put your hands where you cannot see, and avoid wandering around in the dark. Step ON logs and rocks, never over them, and be especially careful when climbing rocks or gathering firewood. Check out stumps or logs before sitting down, and shake out sleeping bags before use.

**Be careful when stepping over the doorstep as well. Snakes like to crawl along the edge of buildings where they are protected on one side.

**Never hike alone. Always have someone with you who can assist in an emergency.

**Do not handle a freshly killed snake, it can still inject venom.

**Teach children early to respect snakes and to leave them alone. Children are naturally curious and will pick up snakes.
Keeping snakes out of the yard:

The best protection against rattlesnakes in the yard is a “rattlesnake proof” fence. It can be expensive and requires maintenance, however. The fence should either be solid or with mesh no larger than one-quarter inch. It should be at least three feet high with the bottom buried a few inches in the ground. Slanting your snake fence outward about a 30-degree angle will help. Discourage snakes by removing piles of boards or rocks around the home. Use caution when removing those piles - there may already be a snake there.
What to do in the event of a snake bite:

Though uncommon, rattlesnake bites do occur, so have a plan in place for responding to any situation. Carry a portable phone, hike with a companion who can assist in an emergency, and make sure that family or friends know where you are going and when you will be checking in. The first thing to do if bitten is to stay calm. Generally, the most serious effect of a rattlesnake bite to an adult is local tissue damage which needs to be treated. Children, because they are smaller, are in more danger if they are bitten. Get to a doctor as soon as possible, but stay calm. Frenetic, high-speed driving places the victim at greater risk of an accident and increased heart rate. If the doctor is more than 30 minutes away, keep the bite below the heart, and then try to get to the doctor as quickly as possible.
The California Poison Control Center advises:  CALL 911
·       Stay calm
·       Wash the bite area gently with soap and water
·       Remove watches, rings, etc, which may constrict swelling
·       Immobilize the affected area
·       Transport safely to the nearest medical facility

For more first aid information please visit:   California Poison Control.