Showing posts with label Southern California. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Southern California. Show all posts

Thursday, October 29, 2015

Coping with the California Drought: Softscapes & Hardscapes

by Pacific Vista Landscape Services
The water-use restrictions in California are forcing property owners to come up with solutions to landscaping that are not only drought-tolerant but also attractive. There are many low-water plants, trees and ground covers that can be used and this is referred to as 'softscape'. In addition, the use of 'hardscape' landscaping includes the use of non-living elements to create pathways, patios and other areas of functional space. Using softscape in combination with hardscape is a creative solution that can produce a beautiful and interesting garden and also save 
valuable water resources and money.  
There are many choices of drought tolerant plants for softscaping that can thrive in Southern California. Mediterranean varieties as well as native plants are among the best suited for our climate. Lavender, thyme and oregano are plants that add beauty and fragrance to a garden and require very little water. Yarrow and California poppy are native plants that also have lower water requirements. Bougainvillea can provide a lovely infusion of color and height on a trellis. Milkweed is a wonderful native plant that helps Monarch butterflies. There are many ornamental grasses like sheep fescue and deergrass, that provide texture and color and can be a great substitute for lawns. Some examples of perennials that have lower water requirements are: mallow, lamb’s ears, catmint, coyote mint, California fuschia and penstemons, to name just a few. Succulents are another good choice for Southern California!                                                      
                                               
While softscaping plants must be chosen to fit the California climate, hardscaping ideas are practically limitless. Rock walls, patios, paths, and boulders are some design elements that can be used. Paths that wander through your garden are inviting and a wonderful way to create depth perception. Pathways can be made of flagstone, concrete, pea gravel, brick, bark, or cobblestone to name a few. Raised planters and divisions can add interest and bring beauty to your design. Adding a water feature with a recirculating pump, like a pond or a birdbath, attracts wildlife and brings tranquility. A garden bench, swing, and patio furniture invites you to relax in your garden. In addition, decks and gazebos are wonderful design elements that can extend your living space into your landscape.

Our professional team at Pacific Vista Landscape Services are experts with creating softscape and hardscape combinations. We can help design, plant, and build your perfect waterwise garden oasis!

Friday, August 28, 2015

The Benefits of Aloe Vera!

by Pacific Vista Landscape Services

Its health benefits are advertised widely and there is good reason. The aloe vera plant has a lot to offer!

The gel from aloe vera can help heal wounds or moisten dry areas. The plant's gel acts like a natural antiseptic by disinfecting the cut or burn and helping it heal. The gel is also a moisturizer for dry lips, elbows, knees, toes, feet, etc. It is often referred to as the "natural healer" or the "miracle plant." Many companies sell products with aloe vera in it but why not have your own supply on hand. Just cut a piece off and squeeze out the gel! 

People are drinking the juice, called aloe water, to gain its benefits internally. Rich in antioxidants and a natural anti-inflammatory, aloe water is thought to aid digestion, strengthen the immune system, help blood circulation, lower cholesterol, among many other health benefits!

Aloe vera is easy to grow! In the beginning, people found this miracle plant in the regions of north-eastern and southern areas of Africa and Madagascar and used it in their daily lives. Now there are over 250 species around the world and its helpful properties are used in many cultures.

Aloe vera is considered semi-tropical and thrives in warm, dry climates. It can grow from the
size of a golf ball to 5 feet across! It is not fast growing and it is easy to take care of. If your plant grows new baby aloes, those can be taken out and grown to another adult plant which is called propagation. It is part of the succulent family and is drought tolerant so it is perfect to grow outdoors in Southern California!

It can also grow indoors in a sunny place. If your aloe vera plant is in a pot, make sure it has plenty of room to grow deep roots. Your pot should also have holes on the bottom to drain extra water as succulents' roots will rot in too much water.


Aloe vera is a very useful plant. From it's health benefits, to being easy to take care of and perfect for Southern California, it's hard to beat!

Friday, June 12, 2015

Coping With the California Drought: Ditching The Lawn!

by Pacific Vista Landscape Services

IS BROWN THE NEW GREEN?


As difficult as it is for California garden lovers to process, UC Berkley soils scientist, Steve Andrews, says yes. Due to the ongoing drought conditions and the state mandate on water use reduction, a change of thinking regarding our gardens and landscapes and how we manage them is going to be necessary. Getting rid of their lawns is now a choice being made by many Californians because this one measure will reduce water usage by 25%, which is the amount every person in California must now do. However, choosing to ditch your lawn does not mean your garden has to be brown or drab. Many drought tolerant plants and ground cover are colorful and, mixed with hardscapes, can bring new dimensions to your landscape while saving water and money!

HOW DO I GET RID OF MY LAWN?

Applying for a lawn rebate is the best place to start. You must do this before removing your lawn to qualify. "The Metropolitan Water District of Southern California has paid just over $34 million in turf removal rebates. It has given the go-ahead to an additional $120 million in turf removal applications. The agency offers a rebate of $2 per square foot, which many cities have supplemented with their own rebate programs." (source:http://www.latimes.com/local/california/la-me-lawn-rebate-explainer-20150416-story.html)

One way to get rid of your lawn is to apply a spray-on grass killer which may take a while to work and need to be used several times before they are completely effective. Make sure, if you use this method, that the product is safe for pets and is eco-friendly, as many are not. These products contain chemicals that are required by law to break down in the soil within 14 days so, depending on what you use, you might need to wait to plant new plants if you want to give them their best chance of survival.

Steve Andrews describes another method that is effective. He calls it the “lasagna method”, which is done by alternating layers of compost and cardboard or newspaper with layers of mulch. This causes the grass to die because it receives no sunlight, but another benefit of this method is that it feeds the soil underneath and prepares it for the new plants with lower water requirements. (Source:http://www.mercurynews.com/our-community-garden/ci_28014099/compost-and-mulch-will-help-lower-water-use)

Another way is to hire a professional landscaper to remove the lawn and replace it with materials and plants that use much less water.

CAN PROPER SOIL PREPARATION REDUCE THE AMOUNT OF WATER NEEDED?

Yes, the generous use of compost and mulch is very important. They will not only enrich the soil which in turn feeds the plants, but mulch and compost help to retain water, which in turn reduces the amount of watering needed for your yard.

WHAT CAN BE USED TO REPLACE OUR LAWNS?


Lawns can be replaced with a variety of plants and materials that don’t use much water. Native plants that attract birds and butterflies are a popular option. Drought tolerant herbs and ornamental shrubs are another idea. Succulents can be beautiful also as well as an occasional cactus can be used to add interest to a garden. There are also low-maintenance ground covers that look good and don’t require a lot of water. The need to water will drop even further when roots grow deep and are established. Hardscaping, using rocks, pathways, ornaments, gravel and patio areas is a great way to utilize a minimum of plants and shrubs and still have an attractive looking garden!

Let Pacific Vista Landscape Services come and assess your landscape needs! We can help guide you through the rebate process. Our professionals are experts with drought tolerant plants and smart irrigation systems, as well as creating hardscapes to transform your garden into a low-water oasis saving water AND money for years to come!

Friday, May 1, 2015

Memorial Garden Tour Benefiting Veterans is Sunday, May 3rd, 2015

"The garden tour is made up of exhibitors scattered throughout Santa Clarita Valley who are real gardeners...who have generously consented to share their gardens with you.
This is a self guided tour where your donation is a freewill offering. No price will ever be put on viewing the gardens. Each garden will provide a donation bucket so dig deep and give as generously as you can! Our organization continues to support families of fallen and wounded military. Checks can be made out to the Cole William Larsen Foundation."

Find out more: http://memorialgardentour.com/

Thursday, April 30, 2015

WATER RESTRICTIONS UPDATE APRIL 2015


This month California’s Governor Jerry Brown issued an Executive Order to reduce potable urban water use by 25%.  The State Water Board is implementing various restrictions to help reduce the amount of water used by Californians and an estimated 1.5 million acre-feet of water plans to be saved by the end on nine months. The latest water usage restrictions include:
  • Replacing 50 million square feet of lawns throughout the state with drought tolerant landscaping in partnership with local governments
  • Directing the creation of a temporary, statewide consumer rebate program to replace old appliances with more water and energy efficient models
  • Requiring campuses, golf courses, cemeteries and other large landscapes to make significant cuts in water use
  • Prohibiting new homes and developments from irrigating with potable water unless water-efficient drip irrigation systems are used
  • Ban watering of ornamental grass on public street medians
This was in addition to the previous restrictions passed in October 2014 and March 2015 prohibiting Californians from: 
  • Washing down sidewalks and driveways
  • Watering in a way that causes runoff
  • Washing a motor vehicle without a shut-off nozzle on hose 
  • Operating a fountain or water feature that doesn’t recycle water 
  • No watering during rain or 48 hours after rainfall
  • Restaurants only can serve water to customers who ask for it
  • Hotels must give guests the choice of not having their towels and linens washed on a daily basis. 
Across Southern California one can see violations that hopefully will be addressed with the new restrictions. The VA National Cemetery in Westwood, with acres of grass, had their sprinklers on during the rain the other week which violated watering during or 48 hrs after rainfall restriction. LADWP has many offices across the city with grass landscaping and they are offering rebates for people to switch out their grass for drought tolerant landscape! Speaking of grass, If you happen to drive on San Vicente Blvd. around 2 AM, watch out for the sprinklers watering the roughly four miles of grassy median which sprays into the streets, sometimes missing the grass completely and creating huge puddles of wasted water.  Replacing grass in the medians with drought resistant landscaping would save thousands of gallons of water that wouldn’t be wasted watering the grass (or street) every night.  According to the above restrictions, the city of Los Angeles is now banned from watering medians and will hopefully update these areas
with xeriscape in the future.

There are companies who have been pro-active. Anthem Inc. has taken a huge step in the right direction at their Woodland Hills, CA campus where 12.7 acres of lawn were recently removed and replaced with drought-friendly plants. By the end of the year, Anthem Inc. will have saved 12 million gallons of water simply because they removed their lawns.  The funds that were needed to make this change possible were provided by the LADWP.  Hopefully the LADWP will follow in Anthem’s footsteps and be the next to replace lawns that surround their buildings.  

At Pacific Vista Landscape Services, we are experts switching out lawns for native plants and drought tolerant options as well as non-vegetative landscaping additions. We also have the latest smart technology irrigation systems that can save you even more money in rebates. Call us for a free irrigation evaluation and let us help you save water and money AND have a beautifully landscaped garden!

Tuesday, January 13, 2015

The Art of Pruning

by Pacific Vista Landscape

It’s winter, so that means it’s time to start pruning! Pruning, the cutting away of branches and stems that are dead or overgrown, is essential when it comes to a tree or shrub’s growth, ability to produce flowers and/or fruit, and its resistance to pests or diseases. With the unnecessary branches and stems gone, there is more energy available to the rest of the plant. This extra energy is used to promote growth and the production of fruit and/or flowers.

Winter is the ideal time to prune most deciduous trees or shrubs because this is when they are dormant and don’t have many leaves that would interfere with pruning. Be aware, not ALL deciduous trees can be pruned in the winter! Avoid pruning maples, birches, dogwoods, walnuts, and elms during the winter because they will begin to ooze sap. This is not only messy, but also dangerous for the tree. Evergreen trees or shrubs shouldn’t be pruned during the winter either because they can develop tip burn in cold 
temperatures. A few examples of deciduous trees or shrubs you SHOULD prune in winter are roses, hydrangeas, spruce, plum, barberry, juniper, mallow, and sumacs. 

To begin pruning, locate any dead, diseased, or overgrown branches that need to be removed. When cutting a branch from a tree, it’s important to cut along the branch collar. The branch collar on a tree is the scrunched up bark where the branch and trunk come together. When cut here, the tree will naturally form a callus. When removing an unwanted branch that is part of larger branch, avoid leaving behind a stump because this can harm the tree.

Pruning also involves thinning the canopy, which means some branches or stems are removed throughout the tree or shrub to increase airflow and enhance the appearance. When thinning the canopy, it’s important to start from the center and work your way out to the exterior. Make sure to pay constant attention to the appearance of the tree or shrub while you are pruning. It’s suggested to cut the tree or shrub with its natural shape in mind and to avoid giving trees a flat top (also known as scalping). Be careful not to take too much of the plant away while pruning, or the plant won’t survive! 

Pruning is essential in maintaining and caring for a deciduous tree or shrub. A tree or shrub’s ability to grow, bloom, and bear fruit is enhanced when pruned properly in winter.

Safety first! If the tree you want to prune is too large or near power lines, then a professional arborist should be contacted. At Pacific Vista Landscape Services, we are pruning experts! Give us a call and we can help with all your tree trimming and landscaping needs!

Friday, October 17, 2014

California's New Water Regulations

Ponds and waterfalls must recycle water!
Due to California’s 'Mediterranean' climate, it is normal for the state to experience dry periods. However, in these past few years, scarcely any rain has fallen in California, which has lead to a severe drought. A drought occurs when an area’s precipitation decreases, which causes a water shortage. In an effort to limit water usage during our severe drought, statewide regulations have been issued this year.

Regulations are being enforced concerning water usage, and a violation of these rules could result in a $500 fine. Watering driveways or sidewalks is strictly prohibited, along with the watering of personal property IF it causes water runoff. You can still water, but there are regulations on how water can be used. For example, if you want to wash your car, the hose you use must have a shut-off nozzle and any ponds, fountains or other water features on your property must recycle water.

Example of water waste!
Depending on where you live in California, the rules and regulations vary. However, there are general rules that are enforced in most areas. You can only water outside two days a week during the winter, three during the summer, and during certain hours. These hours are in the early morning, late afternoon, and night. Watering during midday allows for higher evaporation and less ground absorption which is counterproductive. In severely affected areas, water usage is already limited to 50 gallons per individual in a household. Those who exceed the limits or have blatant water waste, are subject to a $500 fine as well as being charged 160% higher rates for water usage.

If the drought continues and people don’t make an attempt to conserve water, stricter water regulations will be enforced overall. An example of this would only being able to water one day of the week and more areas having usage limits and higher rates. The drought doesn’t seem like it will be over anytime soon, and to replenish water reservoirs and put an end to the drought California would roughly need around a foot of rainwater. Since it is impossible to change the weather, the only thing people can do to help is conserve water and follow the regulations that have been enforced.

We are here to help! At Pacific Vista Landscape Services, we are experts on irrigation and drought resistant landscaping, read more here:
http://landscape-and-property-news.blogspot.com/2014/03/smart-irrigation-save-water-money.html 
There are also rebates programs that can help mitigate the cost for changing lawns to drought resistant landscaping and updating irrigation systems covered here:
http://landscape-and-property-news.blogspot.com/2013/12/a-greener-landscape-re-landscape-with.html
Call us for a free irrigation evaluation and let us help you save water and money AND have a beautifully landscaped garden!

Thursday, September 4, 2014

Attracting Pollinators to Your Garden!

by Pacific Vista Landscape Services
Photo by Kristina Lawrence


Three-fourths of the world’s flowering plants and about 35 percent of the world’s food crops depend on pollinators to reproduce. It is estimated that one out of every three bites of food we eat exists because of animal pollinators like bees, butterflies and moths, birds and bats, and beetles and other insects.

During a flower visit, a pollinator may brush against the flower’s reproductive parts, unknowingly depositing pollen from a different flower. The plant then uses the pollen to produce a fruit or seed. Many plants cannot reproduce without pollen carried to them by foraging pollinators so it is a vital part of agriculture.

Planting flowers in your garden can not only provide beauty, but can also be a veritable smorgasbord for pollinators as they prefer a blooming buffet of nectar rich flowers.  There are many to choose from that are heat and drought tolerant, fast growing and colorful.  Many bloom all year long here in Southern California!

Photo by Shannon Palmer
The serenity of sitting on your porch, or peering out your window and seeing the fluttering creatures enjoying your garden cannot be underestimated.  Suddenly your yard looks like the illustration from your favorite picture book! 

Choosing what flowers you plant can actually help create an ecosystem in your own yard. At Pacific Vista Landscape Serviceswe are experts on all types of flowers and adding color to your garden. We are dedicated to maintaining the beauty and value of your landscape!  

Some of the best flowering plants to attract pollinators for Southern California can be found here: http://www.sunset.com/garden/flowers-plants/plants-pollination/view-all

Monday, July 14, 2014

Killing Bugs Naturally and Keeping Your Kids, Pets, and Wildlife Safe!

Rosemary is a natural insecticide. 
by Pacific Vista Landscape Services

Nowadays it’s easy to buy chemicals that will kill unwanted garden insects.  You save your plants from ruin, but at what price?  Many commercial insecticides contain chemicals that are not only hazardous to humans, but they are also dangerous for pets and for wildlife as well. Is there a safer and even a more economical solution? Yes, there is, and it’s potentially right in your pantry!

The following “recipes” will arm you with the ammunition you need to rid your garden of insect pests, and keep your children and pets safe from the effects of nasty chemicals.  All you’ll need is a spray bottle and some common household ingredients!

#1 - Mix 2 tbsp. baby shampoo to 1 gallon of water. Add 2 tbsp. cooking oil and stir to blend. Fill a spray bottle with the solution and spray all plant parts to control insect pests. Repeat every five to seven days.

#2 - Peel two cloves of garlic and four onions and chop coarsely. Place in the blender with 1 qt. water and 2 tbsp. cayenne pepper. Blend until the onions and garlic are pureed. Strain the mixture through cheesecloth or a fine mesh strainer to remove particles. Add the mixture to 2 gallons of water. Mix in 2 tbsp. mild soap flakes and stir to dissolve. Apply to plants with a spray bottle and repeat as needed.

#3 - Fill a plastic half-gallon milk container with water, leaving about 2 inches at the top. Blend two or three strong chili peppers, such as habaneros or Thai chili peppers, in a blender with 1 cup of water. Next, strain the chili pepper as you pour the contents of the blender into the half-gallon milk container. Shake the container to distribute the pepper oils and let it stand for one day. Transfer the chili pepper mixture into a spray bottle when you're ready to use it.


 #4 - Place 4 ounces of fresh rosemary at the bottom of the clear glass jar. Pour in enough safflower oil to cover the herbs. Close the jar with the cover and place in a warm, sunny spot for at least two days.  Open the jar and pour oil through the strainer into the measuring cup. Discard the remaining herbs.  Pour 2 ounces of the strained oil into the spray bottle. Add 2 ounces of liquid soap and 8 ounces of water.  Shake bottle until mixture is blended. Shake the bottle before every use, because the components will separate.  Spray evenly over the plants to be treated. Hold the bottle at least 12 inches away from the plants when you spray.

Varying the “natural” insecticide you use can help its efficacy over time. Use one of these “recipes” for awhile, and then mix up another one.  You’ll save money and have peace of mind!

Wednesday, April 23, 2014

The Cherry Trees in Washington D.C.

Washington Monument & Cherry trees
Photo courtesy of Nation Park Service

It is that time of year again when thousands of bare cherry blossom trees awaken from their cold slumber in Washington DC and dawn their colorful flowers. Once dormant and colorless, the cherry blossom trees begin to sprout millions of pink and white flowers that dazzle West Potomac Park, Hains Point, and the Washington Memorial in vibrant colors. During this time, 1.5 million people travel to Washington DC to attend the Cherry Blossom Festival and admire the gorgeous scenery.

Time for a quick history lesson! Let’s go back a century to when the cherry blossom trees first came to the U.S. In 1910, 2,000 trees were sent to Washington DC as a gift from Japan. Unfortunately upon arrival, the Department of Agriculture discovered that the trees were diseased and had to be destroyed as soon as possible. Two years later, Japan sent 3,000 healthy cherry blossom trees to make up for the previously diseased ones. This beautiful gift contained a variety of different cherry
Cherry tree inspection
photo courtesy of U.S.National Arboretum
blossoms, such as somei-yoshino and jonioi cherry blossoms. The first two trees were planted on the north bank of the Tidal Basin in West Potomac Park. First Lady Helen Herron Taft and Viscountess Chinda, the wife of the Japanese ambassador, had the honor of planting these two trees. Workmen then continued to plant the remainder of the trees, which would provide a breath taking sight for years to come.

To remember Japan’s gift to the U.S., the tree planting ceremony was re-enacted by Washington school children in 1927. Celebration and admiration of the gorgeous cherry blossom trees did not stop there; in 1935 the first “Cherry Blossom Festival” was held and sponsored by numerous civic groups. This festival would occur annually, and soon grow from days to weeks. Not only did the Cherry Blossom Festival grow, but so did the relationship between Japan and the U.S. Over the years, gifts have continued to be exchanged between the two countries. Examples of such gifts include when the U.S. gave Japan flowering dogwood trees, as well as cuttings from the cherry blossom trees originally gifted in order to replace trees Japan had lost in a flood. In 1965, the U.S. received 3,800 Yoshino cherry blossom trees from Japan, which would be planted on the grounds of the Washington Monument.

If you happen to be one of the millions of tourists that go to Washington DC each year to see the Cherry Blossom Festival, take a minute to remember what significance the cherry blossom trees hold. Not only are they beautiful, delicate, and extraordinary, they are a symbol of the friendship between the U.S. and Japan.

Sources:

            

Monday, March 31, 2014

Smart Irrigation: Save Water & Money

by Pacific Vista Landscape Services

In Southern California, water is one of our most precious resources. After three consecutive years of below normal rainfall, we are now in a 'drought emergency' and many areas of California are imposing irrigation restrictions. The biggest problem is the old school irrigation systems which are extremely wasteful and inefficient. According to the Environmental Protection Agency, "Residential outdoor water use in the United States accounts for more than 9 billion gallons of water each day, mainly for landscape irrigation. Experts estimate that as much as 50 percent of this water is wasted due to overwatering caused by inefficiencies in irrigation methods and systems. Irrigation control technologies can significantly reduce overwatering by applying water only when plants need it." 

The latest irrigation systems use 'smart' technology and are very effective at saving water and money. A 'smart' technology irrigation system has a controller which takes in account the weather and landscape conditions so that only the amount of water needed is used, unlike automatic timers that act blindly. This technology, combined with low-volume systems
of delivery that can be tailored to specific landscape needs, can effectively reduce overwatering. These systems are designed to deliver water directly onto the roots or  underground through subirrigation, eliminating the problem of water waste through evaporation and overspray. According to the Irrigation & Green Industry website, "In this new green environment, low-volume irrigation has found its footing—or at least, its tubing. The national move toward drip makes sense. Whether the terrain is residential or commercial, drip or lowflow is a proven water-saver. With low-flow and drip, water is delivered in quantities measured in fractions of gallons-per-hour (gph), instead of gallons-per-minute (gpm). There are advantages to installing low-volume irrigation, too. Low-volume irrigation is unlikely to be banned during a drought, because of the minimum quantities of water delivered by low-pressure emitters, low-volume spitters, and bubblers.

Also, low-volume irrigation promotes healthy plant growth, because a precise amount of water can be delivered to a plant in a targeted way. Water can be steered to the trees, plants, and shrubs that need it and away from those that don’t, which reduces the chances of harmful diseases and fungi taking hold on stems or trunks." Water penetrating at the roots also encourages the roots to grow deeper, making the plants more hardy and drought resistant.

For many years, the Pacific Vista Landscape team has been delivering effective water management programs. We are experts on the latest irrigation technology and have multiple irrigation certifications. Our water management strategies help customers reduce water usage, save money and ensure a lush landscape. Our clients have saved thousands of dollars and more importantly, conserved hundreds of thousands of gallons of water. Through effective water management strategies and the use of 'smart' technologies, it is possible to achieve a lush, healthy landscape, while achieving water conservation and money saving goals!





















Friday, January 10, 2014

Xeriscaping: The Future of Landscaping

Xeriscape photo by Inventist Media

by Pacific Vista Landscape Services

What is a xeriscape? The term comes from the Greek word 'xeros' which means 'dry' combined with 'scape' meaning 'dry landscape' but really it means landscaping with plants that need minimal water. Since about 70 percent of the water consumed by an average single-family home is used outdoors, the best place to start conserving water is in your garden. However, xeriscaping with plants that do not need a lot of water does not mean your garden has to look desolate!

Southwestern states have been xeriscaping the longest due to the fact that they have dry climates and it makes sense to not fight mother nature by growing high maintenance gardens and lawns. But with water becoming a diminishing resource everywhere, other states throughout the U.S. are now xeriscaping too. Luckily, in Southern California, we have many drought resistant native plants and a climate that allows us to use low water plants from other similar dry climates like Australia, South Africa, the Middle East, and Mediterranean areas. Many of these plants are lush and beautiful and visually completely different than a typical southwest garden of cacti and rocks. There are many wonderful options and we live in the perfect place for xeriscaping!

Water is still necessary with xeriscapes, especially when plants are new. However they become more drought resistant once established. Many drought tolerant native plants in the wild naturally have deep roots as part of their survival. New, nursery bought plants in pots will take a couple years at minimum to achieve the same deeper root systems as their counterparts in the wild. Xeriscapes work well with low-pressure systems that deliver water right to the roots of the plants but don't go everywhere. A sub-surface water source not only feeds the roots without wasting it on the surface where it can evaporate, it encourages the roots to grow deeper beyond the root ball which ultimately makes it hardier and more drought resistant in the future. Once roots are established, they will require even less supplemental water.

Another important component to xeriscaping is using a ground cover like gravel or mulch. Mulch can be made from organic materials including leaves, grass clippings, straw, shredded bark, sawdust, wood chips, and cardboard. There is also rubber mulch made from recycled tires which does not decompose quickly. Ground cover does a multiple of jobs when it comes to xeriscaping. Most importantly, it helps keep the moisture in the soil and keeps the ground cooler in the summer. It also keeps weeds from competing with plants for water and nutrients.

Xeriscapes are most stunning when designed with a combination of softscapes and hardscapes. Softscape refers to trees, bushes, plants, ground cover, and the living aspects of the garden. Hardscape is the addition of pathways, planters, and outdoor living areas that can make your garden more inviting, accessible, and visually interesting. Hardscapes also mean less softscapes, and less water. The key is to design a layout that is a balance of the two so that your garden complements your home and is low maintenance; saving you water and money!

Our team at Pacific Vista Landscape Services are experts when it comes to xeriscaping and knowing the vast variety of drought resistant plant options. We can work with you to design incredible soft and hardscapes to enhance your property which not only look great but could qualify you for a rebate from your local water company. (See our last article 'A Greener Landscape: Re-Landscape with Lawn Rebates in Southern California'.) We are also certified experts installing smart-water irrigation systems that are efficient and cost effective and are rebate worthy too! Having a beautiful, low maintenance garden makes sense now and in the future!

Thursday, December 5, 2013

A Greener Landscape: Re-Landscape with Lawn Rebates in Southern California

Drought tolerant landscaping photo by Inventist Media
by Pacific Vista Landscape Services

If you live in Southern California and have a lawn that requires lots of water to maintain, you might want to consider trading it in for drought tolerant landscaping. Rebates for re-landscaping can help cover the initial cost as well as save water and money for years to come.

There are 26 agencies in Southern California that get their water from the Metropolitan Water District and participate in the lawn rebate program called So-Cal Water Smart. Depending on your provider, qualifications and rebates will vary but some have recently increased their rebates to increase the incentive for property owners to exchange their grass for cash.

For example, The Department of Water & Power, DWP, recently increased the rebate amount for it's Landscape Incentive Program from $1.50 per square foot to $2.00 per square foot. Homeowners can claim up to 2000 square feet and get up to $4000.00 cash back! Multi family and commercial buildings can also receive rebates with a tiered program that also gives up to $2.00 per square foot. This is considered a limited time offer by DWP so now is the time to take action!

Qualifying is the first step in obtaining a rebate. Prior to re-landscaping, an application must be filled out and pre-approval is needed. For DWP customers, the application is available at DWP's website and property owners are required to submit photos and a description of planned landscaping. An inspection will be done prior to removal of a lawn and after completion of re-landscaping before a rebate will be issued. 

Drought tolerant landscaping photo by Inventist Media
Re-landscaping options require use of plants that are considered 'California Friendly'. A list of native and drought tolerant options which includes around 1500 trees, shrubs, succulents, vines, perennials and ground cover can be found at the Metropolitan Water District's site Bewaterwise.com. Along with lots of beautiful plant options, using non-vegetative materials like pebbles and decomposed granite to create interesting visual additions can enhance your your new landscape. Segmented areas, planters, and pathways can add landscaping appeal while further lowering watering needs.

At Pacific Vista Landscape Services, we can help in planning your re-landscaping project. We are experts when it comes to native plants and drought tolerant options as well as non-vegetative landscaping additions. We also provide the latest smart technology in irrigation systems that can save you even more money in rebates. Give us a call and see what we can do for your property!

Wednesday, November 6, 2013

Tree Care: TLC For Your Tree!

Eucalyptus Tree photo by Inventist Media
by Pacific Vista Landscape Services

One of the most important services we provide at Pacific Vista Landscape is tree care. Trees bring beauty to a property and increased value. They also absorb noise and pollution and clean the air we breathe. A healthy tree can last years, even centuries and beyond. California has some of the oldest living trees; like the Giant Sequoia Redwoods which are around a few thousand years old and the Bristlecone Pine which grows in the mountains of Southern California and can live up to five thousand years! Proper care can ensure that your trees have optimal health and are enjoyed for generations to come. 

Trees are susceptible to many forms of stress including; wind, rain, disease and pest damage. These stresses can be minimized by implementing a routine maintenance program for trees. A proper tree care program will allow fluid growth patterns and wind penetration. This will condition your trees for long term healthy development.

Proper pruning is key to a good tree care program. It can also aid in keeping a view from being obstructed or maintaining healthy coverage from an unsightly view. The best time to prune trees depends on the variety but often it is in the dormant season, usually fall and winter. Pruning during the dormant period minimizes sap loss and subsequent stress to the tree. It also minimizes the risk of fungus infection or insect infestation as both fungi and insects are likely to be in dormancy at the same time as the tree. At Pacific Vista Landscape, all of our pruning practices are based upon the International Society of Arboriculture industry standards and our trained professionals prune trees in accordance with American National Standards Institute (ANSI) A300 Standards. This ensures that you get the finest quality tree care available.

We offer a tree care plan that can meet the needs of every tree on your property by taking into account species, age, and purpose. Our staff will provide you with a complete inventory of all trees and organize these trees on a multiple year tree care plan. We will place the trees on an appropriate frequency to best suit a given species. Call us today for a free quote and see what we can do for your trees!

Friday, October 4, 2013

Composting is Easy!

http://www.inventistmedia.com/
Compost photo by Inventist Media
by Pacific Vista Landscape Services

In nature, once living material drops to the ground, decays, and eventually decomposes creating compost. This material is essential because it adds nutrients to the soil helping living plants thrive. It is easy to create your own compost and make your garden thrive as well!

The first essential ingredient for creating compost is air. The bacteria and fungus microbes that are in your compost pile need oxygen to live. If your pile is too dense or becomes too wet, the air supply to the inside is cut off and the beneficial organisms will die. Decomposition will slow and an offensive odor may arise. To avoid this, turn and fluff the pile with a pitchfork often, perhaps weekly. You can also turn the pile by just re-piling it into a new pile.


Next is water. One of the most common mistakes in composting is letting the pile get too dry. Your compost pile should be moist as a wrung-out sponge. A moisture content of 40 to 60 percent is preferable. To test for adequate moisture, reach into your compost pile and grab a handful of material and squeeze it; if a few drops of water come out, it's probably got enough moisture, if it doesn't, add water. When you water, it is best to put a hose into the pile so that you aren't just wetting the top. You can also water as you are turning the pile. During dry weather, you may have to add water regularly. During wet weather, you may need to cover your pile. A properly constructed compost pile will drain excess water and not become soggy.


Third essential ingredient is carbon. Microbes need carbon for energy to be able to break down the organic material. Brown yard and garden material such as dry leaves, twigs, hay, or shredded paper can provide the carbon balance for a compost pile. Chop or shred large pieces to 12 inches or shorter (thick, woody branches should be chipped, ground up, or left out). 


Lastly, composting needs nitrogen. Nitrogen is the protein required to fuel the bodies of the microbes so they can do their job. Green materials such as grass clipping and landscape trimmings are ideal sources of nitrogen for composting. Vegetable and fruit trimmings and peels can also provide nitrogen for composting. Coffee grounds and tea bags may look brown, but are actually potent nitrogen sources. To reduce the potential for pests or odors, avoid meat or dairy scraps and always bury food scraps deep within the compost pile. Avoid pet feces due to concerns about pathogens. However, manure from chickens, turkeys, cows or horses is rich in nitrogen, and can help your compost pile get to proper temperatures, and make very good compost.

You can compost in a contained bin or, if it's ok with your city, have an outside pile right on the ground. Ideally, the compost pile should be at least three feet wide by three feet deep by three feet tall (one cubic yard). This size provides enough food and insulation for the organisms to live. However, piles can be larger or smaller and work just fine if managed well.  

The easiest compost recipe calls for blending roughly one part of green or wet material (which is high in nitrogen) and two parts brown or dry material (which is high in carbon). Having the right ratio of carbon to nitrogen is important. "Piles with too much nitrogen tend to smell, because the excess nitrogen converts into an ammonia gas. Carbon-rich piles break down slowly because there's not enough nitrogen for the microbe population to expand. An ideal compost pile should have a 30:1 C/N ratio. Grass clippings alone have about a 20:1 C/N ratio. Adding one part grass clippings, or other green, to two parts dead leaves, or other brown, will give you the right mix." (source: http://www.organicgardening.com/learn-and-grow/composting-101) Simply layer or mix these materials in a pile or enclosure; chop or shred large pieces to 12" or shorter. Water and fluff the compost to add air. Then leave it to the microorganisms, which will break down the material over time.

Compost piles that have the right blend of nitrogen and carbon and are kept moist and fluffed regularly, will heat up to temperatures of 120 to 140 degrees Fahrenheit. The high temperature will kill most weed seeds and speed up the decomposition process so that the compost may be ready in 2 to 3 months or less. Casual compost piles are also quite workable since compost will happen even if you just pile on yard and food waste, water sporadically, and wait. Since these piles don't get too hot, often worms will migrate into these and they will help breakdown material as well. Casual composting can take several months.

Composting is finished when the original material has been transformed into a uniform, dark brown, crumbly product with a pleasant, earthy aroma. There may be a few chunks of woody material left; these can be screened out and put back into a new pile. Besides making incredible, nutrient rich soil for your garden, using left over food scraps in your compost cuts down food waste that would otherwise end up in land fills! Composting is a win-win! 

Friday, September 6, 2013

Landscaping 101: Glossary of Terms

Here are some commonly used terms in landscaping:
by Pacific Vista Landscape Services

Accent:
The use of a plant or object to draw attention to a space.

Acidic soil: 
Soil with a pH value of less than 7.0.

Aeration:
A method of increasing water and oxygen into compact soil by turning and loosening the soil to allow penetration.

Alkaline soil: 
Soil with a pH value of more than 7.0.

Annual:
A plant that completes its life cycle in one year or season.

Apex: 
The tip of a stem.

Arbor: 
A shady garden shelter or bower, often made of rustic wood or latticework on which vines, roses, etc. are grown.

Arboretum:
A landscaped space where trees, shrubs, and herbaceous plants are cultivated for scientific study, educational purposes, and to foster appreciation of plants.

Axil:
The area between a leaf and the stem from which the leaf arises.

Bacillus Thuringiensis(BT):
Biological Control

Beneficial Biological Controls:
Insects and organic chemicals

Biennial:
A plant that typically takes two years to complete it's life cycle.


Budding:
A form of asexual reproduction in which a new organism develops from an outgrowth or bud on another one.

Bulb:
An underground plant structure that contains nutrients, energy and seed to produce a plant.

Cambrium Layer:
The thin layer of growing cells between the xylem and phloem.

Chlorosis:
Iron deficiency

Clay:
A soil particle which is plate-like, extremely small and may retain nutrients well.

Clod:
A lump of clay which is difficult to break apart.

Cold Hardy:
Capable of withstanding cold weather conditions.

Compost:
A soil product created from decomposed garden material, used in flower beds to add nutrients and encourage good growth.

Cultivar:
A cultivated variety of a plant selected for some feature that distinguishes it from 
the species from which it was selected.

Cultivation:
Turning the soil to provide better air circulation or to control weeds.

Dead Heading:
Removing dead flowers before they set seed.

Deciduous:
Having leaves that fall off or are shed 
seasonally to avoid adverse weather conditions such as cold or drought.

Defoliation:
The process when a plant looses all its leaves.

Dethatching:
Removing thatches in grass; removal of the dead grass.


Die Back:
Tips of branches decline due to lack of moisture or disease.

Dormancey:
When a plant reaches a dormant period, usually in winter.

Drainage:
The downward movement of water passing through soil.


Drip Line:
Outmost branch tips where the water would land to feed the tree.

Drought Tolerant:
The ability of a plant to thrive without much water.


Epiphyte:
A plant that lives on a host plant but draws nutrients from the air.

Espalier:
A flat or fan like like trellis.

Established Plant:
When the plant is fully rooted.

Evergreen:
A plant whose leaves or needles are green year-round.

Fertilizer:
A material added to feed plants rich in nutrients, usually nitrogen (often lost with frequent mowing), phosphates and potash.

Fescue:
Soft compact fine-leafed grasses.


Flower Form:
Structure of a flower, i.e. single, semi, double.

Foundation Plant: plant that is used to frame around a house or structure and connect it to the rest of the landscape.

Frond:
A large leaf with multiple divisions.

Fungicide:
The chemical used to control a fungus-related disease.

Germination:
The sprouting of a seed, spore or pollen grain.


Genus:
A subdivion of a family or subfamily in the classification of organisms.

Girdling:
Also called ring-barking, is the removal of bark around the circumference of the tree in a ring. The result is a slow death to the part of the tree or woody plant above the damage.

Grading:
The process of changing the slope level of an area of soil.


Grafting:
Combining the vascular tissues of two plants to form a hybrid by placing a portion of one plant (called a bud or scion) into or on a stem, root, or branch of another (called the stock) in such a way that a union forms and the partners continue to grow.

Ground Cover:
Plants which are low-growing and create a blanket appearance over an area.


Growing Season:
The period each year when the plant grows.

Hardscape:

Walkways, planters, and areas made of hard material like concrete or rocks that is incorporated into the landscape and balances with the 'softscape'.

Hardy:
Plants that can survive difficult conditions like frost and severe cold.

Hedge:
A variety of shrubs that when planted close together will give a wall-like appearance; often used to separate areas.


Herbaceous:
Having little or no woody tissue. Most plants grown as perennials or annuals are herbaceous.

Herbicide:
A chemical used to control weeds.


Horticulture:
The science of growing plants, flowers, trees, shrubs, fruit, & grasses.

Hybrid:
A plant or group of plants that results from the interbreeding of two distinct cultivars, 
varieties, species, or genera.

Indigenous:
Occurring naturally in a particular place. Native.

Iron:
A mineral used in keeping grass green.

Irrigation: 

Applying water to vegetation and landscape to help it thrive.

Leader:
The primary shoot of a plant.

Leaf Burn:
A plant disease that causes a burnt appearance.

Leaf Mold:
A fungal disease of plants in which mold develops on the leaves.

Lime:
Calcium material used to raise the pH in soil.

Macronutrients:
Essential elements needed in large amounts for healthy plant growth: nitrogen, phosphorus, calcium, magnesium, and sulfur.


Micro Climate:
The climate of a small area that is different than the climate of the surrounding area.

Micronutrients:
Essential elements needed in very small amounts for healthy plant growth: iron, copper, zinc, boron, molybdenum, chlorine, and cobalt.

Mulch:
A material used to cover soil for moisture conservation and weed suppression.

Native Plant:
A plant that lives or grows naturally in a particular region without direct or indirect 
human intervention. Indigenous.

Node:
The part of a plant stem from which one or more leaves emerge.

Organic Fertilizer:
Compounds derived from decomposition of plant and animal products and include blood meal, bone meal, manure, and sewage sludge.


Organic Matter:
Biological material in the process of decaying or decomposing.

Osmosis:
When water travels across a membrane.


Peatmoss:
A bog like moss processed to be used in potting soils and helps assimilate nutrients for the plant.

Perennial:
Persisting for several years, usually dying back to a perennial crown during the winter and initiating new growth each spring.

Pesticide:
A chemical used to control an organism.

pH:
The acidity and alkalinity of soil.


Phloem: 
One of the two types of transport tissue in vascular plants, xylem is the other.

Photosynthesis:
The process in which plants convert sunlight energy into chemical energy that can be used as fuel to aid in plant development.

Planter:
The defined area, commonly raised and composed of wood or concrete, used to grow plants.


Plant Family:
A plant that belongs to a family that shares the same broad characterisitcs.

Polladring:
A pruning meathod in which a a tree's top branches are cut back to the trunk so that it may produce a dense growth of new shoots.

Pollen:
A fine powdery substance consisting of microscopic grains discharged from the male part of a flower or from a male cone.

Pollenation:
The process in which pollen is transferred.

Pollenator Bees:
Bees that transfer pollen.

Pollenizer:
A plant that supplies pollen.

Pruning:
A method of cutting parts of a plant off to control size, health and appearance.

Pseudo Bulb:
A storage organ derived from the part of a stem between two leaf nodes.

Re-foliate:
Term used for when a plant grows new leaves after a leafless period, usually in the spring.


Rhizome:
A horizontal, usually underground stem that often sends out roots and shoots from its nodes.

Root Bound:
A plant that has grown too large for its container resulting in matting or tangling of the roots.

Rootstock:
The part of a budded or grafted plant that furnishes the root system. Also called 'understock'.

Rosette:
A circular arrangement of leaves or petals.

Scion:
A detached shoot or twig used in grafting.

Shrub:
A low-growing woody plant, usually under 15 feet that often has multiple stems.

Shock:
A term used to describe a plant that has been impacted by change, i.e. transplanting, weather, too much or too little water, frost, etc.


Sod:
Small areas of turf ready for transplant to new locations. Often used to start a new lawn.

Softscape:

Vegetation used in landscaping which balances with 'hardscape'. Includes trees, flowers, grasses, shrubs. 

Species:
Plant organisms with similar traits capable of off-spring.

Specimen:
An individual plant used to represent a class or genus or plants.

Sphagnum:
A genus of 120 species of mosses, commonly called peat moss, that survives well in wet, acidic soil.

Spore: 
Typically a one-celled, reproductive unit capable of giving rise to a new individual plant.

Spur:
A projecting root or branch.

Standard:
A tree or shrub that grows to full height.

Stolon:
A stem, at or just below the surface of the ground, that produces new plants from buds at it's tips or nodes.

Stress:
The negative impact of non-living forces on a plant.

Sucker:
A secondary shoot produced from the base or roots of a woody plant that gives rise to a new plant.

Tap Root:
An enlarged root, that grows downward and forms a center which other roots sprout laterally.

Tender:
A delicate plant that is usually sensitive to frost or severe cold.

Temperature Tolerance:
Cold or heat, the degree at which a plant can handle temperatures and survive.

Thatch:
The live or dead layer of roots and stems between the turf of a lawn and the soil.


Thinning:
Pruning or removing some branches in a uniform way throughout a tree or shrub.

Topiary:
A decorative style of plant growth controlled by shaping with pruning or shearing.

Transplant:
Moving a plant from one location to another.

Tree:
A woody perennial plant having a single, usually elongated main stem or trunk with 
few or no branches on its lower part.

Tuber:
A thickened, underground stem or rhizome which stores nutrients.

Turf:
A ground cover of grass.

Variegation:
A pattern of leaves that contains either white or yellow markings.


Variety:
A sub-species of plant.

Vegetation:
A general term for all plant life.

Water Sprout:
A nonflowering shoot arising from a branch or axil of a tree or shrub.

Wildflower:
A herbaceous plant that is native to a given area and is representative of unselected 

forms of its species.

Woody Plant:
A plant with persistent woody parts that do not die back in adverse conditions. Most 
woody plants are trees or shrubs.

Xylem: One of the two types of transport tissue in vascular plants, phloem is the other.