The Art of Pruning

by Pacific Vista Landscape

It’s winter, so that means it’s time to start pruning! Pruning, the cutting away of branches and stems that are dead or overgrown, is essential when it comes to a tree or shrub’s growth, ability to produce flowers and/or fruit, and its resistance to pests or diseases. With the unnecessary branches and stems gone, there is more energy available to the rest of the plant. This extra energy is used to promote growth and the production of fruit and/or flowers.

Winter is the ideal time to prune most deciduous trees or shrubs because this is when they are dormant and don’t have many leaves that would interfere with pruning. Be aware, not ALL deciduous trees can be pruned in the winter! Avoid pruning maples, birches, dogwoods, walnuts, and elms during the winter because they will begin to ooze sap. This is not only messy, but also dangerous for the tree. Evergreen trees or shrubs shouldn’t be pruned during the winter either because they can develop tip burn in cold temperatures. A few examples of deciduous trees or shrubs you SHOULD prune in winter are roses, hydrangeas, spruce, plum, barberry, juniper, mallow, and sumacs. 

To begin pruning, locate any dead, diseased, or overgrown branches that need to be removed. When cutting a branch from a tree, it’s important to cut along the branch collar. The branch collar on a tree is the scrunched up bark where the branch and trunk come together. When cut here, the tree will naturally form a callus. When removing an unwanted branch that is part of larger branch, avoid leaving behind a stump because this can harm the tree.

Pruning also involves thinning the canopy, which means some branches or stems are removed throughout the tree or shrub to increase airflow and enhance the appearance. When thinning the canopy, it’s important to start from the center and work your way out to the exterior. Make sure to pay constant attention to the appearance of the tree or shrub while you are pruning. It’s suggested to cut the tree or shrub with its natural shape in mind and to avoid giving trees a flat top (also known as scalping). Be careful not to take too much of the plant away while pruning, or the plant won’t survive! 
Pruning is essential in maintaining and caring for a deciduous tree or shrub. A tree or shrub’s ability to grow, bloom, and bear fruit is enhanced when pruned properly in winter.

Safety first! If the tree you want to prune is too large or near power lines, then a professional arborist should be contacted. At Pacific Vista Landscape Services, we are pruning experts! Give us a call and we can help with all your tree trimming and landscaping needs!

Rose Spotlight: The Native California Wild Rose

by Pacific Vista Landscape Services

Native California wild rose and rose hips

One of the advantages to living in California is that our climate is perfect for growing many types of beautiful plants, including roses. Roses do well here because of the sunny weather and dry air which reduces fungal issues and diseases that can plague roses. There are many beautiful varieties of roses, in all colors and sizes, it's no wonder that roses are widely cultivated and so popular today. However, roses were in California long before people. Taking a look back to the 'root' of roses, uncovers a wonderful native variety known as the Californian wild rose.

There is fossil evidence that the very first roses in North America, known as the wild rose, dates back 35 million years ago and are related to the species we know today. Interestingly, wild roses were also found in Asia dating back 70 million years ago and scientists are not sure why they only grew wild in the Northern Hemisphere. Unlike the modern day rose with many petals, the wild rose has five petals and is open-faced and quite hardy.

The California wild rose is prolific in California and Oregon, growing wildly usually near deep water sources. It is considered to be a 'keystone' species which is a plant that is relied on by other plants, animals, birds and insects that inhabit the area. It supports pollinators like bees and butterflies and is a favorite nesting plant for songbirds. It has a long blooming season from spring into summer and the blooms are wonderfully fragrant.
     
Another interesting attribute is the tiny fruit it provides deep into winter.  Called rose hips, they looks like small red crab apples and contain the rose seeds. They are high in vitamin C and also contains vitamins A, B-3, D and E as well as bioflavonoids.  It is an important food source for birds and animals, was regularly used by the Native Americans, and is widely used today in supplements, teas, and recipes.

The California wild rose is hardy, easy to grow and is relatively pest free. Unlike it's newer relatives, it is drought tolerant once established. It does well in a wide range of soil types and is best planted in medium to large areas. It spreads by sending out underground runner roots and its deep roots make a good barrier from other invasive plants. Plus it will attract bees and butterflies to your garden and maybe a songbird or two!

A Greener Landscape: Re-Landscape with Lawn Rebates in Southern California

Drought tolerant landscaping photo by Inventist Media

by Pacific Vista Landscape Services

If you live in Southern California and have a lawn that requires lots of water to maintain, you might want to consider trading it in for drought tolerant landscaping. Rebates for re-landscaping can help cover the initial cost as well as save water and money for years to come.

There are 26 agencies in Southern California that get their water from the Metropolitan Water District and participate in the lawn rebate program called So-Cal Water Smart. Depending on your provider, qualifications and rebates will vary but some have recently increased their rebates to increase the incentive for property owners to exchange their grass for cash.

For example, The Department of Water & Power, DWP, recently increased the rebate amount for it's Landscape Incentive Program from $1.50 per square foot to $2.00 per square foot. Homeowners can claim up to 2000 square feet and get up to $4000.00 cash back! Multi family and commercial buildings can also receive rebates with a tiered program that also gives up to $2.00 per square foot. This is considered a limited time offer by DWP so now is the time to take action!

Qualifying is the first step in obtaining a rebate. Prior to re-landscaping, an application must be filled out and pre-approval is needed. For DWP customers, the application is available at DWP's website and property owners are required to submit photos and a description of planned landscaping. An inspection will be done prior to removal of a lawn and after completion of re-landscaping before a rebate will be issued. 

Drought tolerant landscaping photo by Inventist Media

Re-landscaping options require use of plants that are considered 'California Friendly'. A list of native and drought tolerant options which includes around 1500 trees, shrubs, succulents, vines, perennials and ground cover can be found at the Metropolitan Water District's site Bewaterwise.com. Along with lots of beautiful plant options, using non-vegetative materials like pebbles and decomposed granite to create interesting visual additions can enhance your your new landscape. Segmented areas, planters, and pathways can add landscaping appeal while further lowering watering needs.

At Pacific Vista Landscape Services, we can help in planning your re-landscaping project. We are experts when it comes to native plants and drought tolerant options as well as non-vegetative landscaping additions. We also provide the latest smart technology in irrigation systems that can save you even more money in rebates. Give us a call and see what we can do for your property!

Composting is Easy!

Compost photo by Inventist Media

by Pacific Vista Landscape Services

In nature, once living material drops to the ground, decays, and eventually decomposes creating compost. This material is essential because it adds nutrients to the soil helping living plants thrive. It is easy to create your own compost and make your garden thrive as well!

The first essential ingredient for creating compost is air. The bacteria and fungus microbes that are in your compost pile need oxygen to live. If your pile is too dense or becomes too wet, the air supply to the inside is cut off and the beneficial organisms will die. Decomposition will slow and an offensive odor may arise. To avoid this, turn and fluff the pile with a pitchfork often, perhaps weekly. You can also turn the pile by just re-piling it into a new pile.

Next is water. One of the most common mistakes in composting is letting the pile get too dry. Your compost pile should be moist as a wrung-out sponge. A moisture content of 40 to 60 percent is preferable. To test for adequate moisture, reach into your compost pile and grab a handful of material and squeeze it; if a few drops of water come out, it's probably got enough moisture, if it doesn't, add water. When you water, it is best to put a hose into the pile so that you aren't just wetting the top. You can also water as you are turning the pile. During dry weather, you may have to add water regularly. During wet weather, you may need to cover your pile. A properly constructed compost pile will drain excess water and not become soggy.

Third essential ingredient is carbon. Microbes need carbon for energy to be able to break down the organic material. Brown yard and garden material such as dry leaves, twigs, hay, or shredded paper can provide the carbon balance for a compost pile. Chop or shred large pieces to 12 inches or shorter (thick, woody branches should be chipped, ground up, or left out). 

Lastly, composting needs nitrogen. Nitrogen is the protein required to fuel the bodies of the microbes so they can do their job. Green materials such as grass clipping and landscape trimmings are ideal sources of nitrogen for composting. Vegetable and fruit trimmings and peels can also provide nitrogen for composting. Coffee grounds and tea bags may look brown, but are actually potent nitrogen sources. To reduce the potential for pests or odors, avoid meat or dairy scraps and always bury food scraps deep within the compost pile. Avoid pet feces due to concerns about pathogens. However, manure from chickens, turkeys, cows or horses is rich in nitrogen, and can help your compost pile get to proper temperatures, and make very good compost.

You can compost in a contained bin or, if it's ok with your city, have an outside pile right on the ground. Ideally, the compost pile should be at least three feet wide by three feet deep by three feet tall (one cubic yard). This size provides enough food and insulation for the organisms to live. However, piles can be larger or smaller and work just fine if managed well.  

The easiest compost recipe calls for blending roughly one part of green or wet material (which is high in nitrogen) and two parts brown or dry material (which is high in carbon). Having the right ratio of carbon to nitrogen is important. "Piles with too much nitrogen tend to smell, because the excess nitrogen converts into an ammonia gas. Carbon-rich piles break down slowly because there's not enough nitrogen for the microbe population to expand. An ideal compost pile should have a 30:1 C/N ratio. Grass clippings alone have about a 20:1 C/N ratio. Adding one part grass clippings, or other green, to two parts dead leaves, or other brown, will give you the right mix." (source: http://www.organicgardening.com/learn-and-grow/composting-101) Simply layer or mix these materials in a pile or enclosure; chop or shred large pieces to 12" or shorter. Water and fluff the compost to add air. Then leave it to the microorganisms, which will break down the material over time.

Compost piles that have the right blend of nitrogen and carbon and are kept moist and fluffed regularly, will heat up to temperatures of 120 to 140 degrees Fahrenheit. The high temperature will kill most weed seeds and speed up the decomposition process so that the compost may be ready in 2 to 3 months or less. Casual compost piles are also quite workable since compost will happen even if you just pile on yard and food waste, water sporadically, and wait. Since these piles don't get too hot, often worms will migrate into these and they will help breakdown material as well. Casual composting can take several months.

Composting is finished when the original material has been transformed into a uniform, dark brown, crumbly product with a pleasant, earthy aroma. There may be a few chunks of woody material left; these can be screened out and put back into a new pile. Besides making incredible, nutrient rich soil for your garden, using left over food scraps in your compost cuts down food waste that would otherwise end up in land fills! Composting is a win-win! 

Landscaping 101: Glossary of Terms

Here are some commonly used terms in landscaping:
by Pacific Vista Landscape Services

Accent:
The use of a plant or object to draw attention to a space.

Acidic soil: 

Soil with a pH value of less than 7.0.

Aeration:
A method of increasing water and oxygen into compact soil by turning and loosening the soil to allow penetration.

Alkaline soil: 

Soil with a pH value of more than 7.0.

Annual:

A plant that completes its life cycle in one year or season.

Apex: 

The tip of a stem.

Arbor: 
A shady garden shelter or bower, often made of rustic wood or latticework on which vines, roses, etc. are grown.

Arboretum:

A landscaped space where trees, shrubs, and herbaceous plants are cultivated for scientific study, educational purposes, and to foster appreciation of plants.

Axil:

The area between a leaf and the stem from which the leaf arises.

Bacillus Thuringiensis(BT):
Biological Control

Beneficial Biological Controls:
Insects and organic chemicals

Biennial:
A plant that typically takes two years to complete it's life cycle.

Budding:
A form of asexual reproduction in which a new organism develops from an outgrowth or bud on another one.

Bulb:
An underground plant structure that contains nutrients, energy and seed to produce a plant.

Cambrium Layer:
The thin layer of growing cells between the xylem and phloem.

Chlorosis:
Iron deficiency

Clay:
A soil particle which is plate-like, extremely small and may retain nutrients well.

Clod:
A lump of clay which is difficult to break apart.

Cold Hardy:

Capable of withstanding cold weather conditions.

Compost:
A soil product created from decomposed garden material, used in flower beds to add nutrients and encourage good growth.

Cultivar:

A cultivated variety of a plant selected for some feature that distinguishes it from 
the species from which it was selected.

Cultivation:
Turning the soil to provide better air circulation or to control weeds.

Dead Heading:
Removing dead flowers before they set seed.

Deciduous:

Having leaves that fall off or are shed 
seasonally to avoid adverse weather conditions such as cold or drought.

Defoliation:
The process when a plant looses all its leaves.

Dethatching:
Removing thatches in grass; removal of the dead grass.

Die Back:
Tips of branches decline due to lack of moisture or disease.

Dormancey:
When a plant reaches a dormant period, usually in winter.

Drainage:
The downward movement of water passing through soil.

Drip Line:
Outmost branch tips where the water would land to feed the tree.

Drought Tolerant:
The ability of a plant to thrive without much water.

Epiphyte:
A plant that lives on a host plant but draws nutrients from the air.

Espalier:
A flat or fan like like trellis.

Established Plant:
When the plant is fully rooted.

Evergreen:
A plant whose leaves or needles are green year-round.

Fertilizer:
A material added to feed plants rich in nutrients, usually nitrogen (often lost with frequent mowing), phosphates and potash.

Fescue:
Soft compact fine-leafed grasses.

Flower Form:
Structure of a flower, i.e. single, semi, double.

Foundation Plant: plant that is used to frame around a house or structure and connect it to the rest of the landscape.

Frond:
A large leaf with multiple divisions.

Fungicide:
The chemical used to control a fungus-related disease.

Germination:
The sprouting of a seed, spore or pollen grain.

Genus:
A subdivion of a family or subfamily in the classification of organisms.

Girdling:
Also called ring-barking, is the removal of bark around the circumference of the tree in a ring. The result is a slow death to the part of the tree or woody plant above the damage.

Grading:
The process of changing the slope level of an area of soil.

Grafting:
Combining the vascular tissues of two plants to form a hybrid by placing a portion of one plant (called a bud or scion) into or on a stem, root, or branch of another (called the stock) in such a way that a union forms and the partners continue to grow.

Ground Cover:
Plants which are low-growing and create a blanket appearance over an area.

Growing Season:
The period each year when the plant grows.

Hardscape:
Walkways, planters, and areas made of hard material like concrete or rocks that is incorporated into the landscape and balances with the 'softscape'.

Hardy:
Plants that can survive difficult conditions like frost and severe cold.

Hedge:
A variety of shrubs that when planted close together will give a wall-like appearance; often used to separate areas.

Herbaceous:

Having little or no woody tissue. Most plants grown as perennials or annuals are herbaceous.

Herbicide:
A chemical used to control weeds.

Horticulture:
The science of growing plants, flowers, trees, shrubs, fruit, & grasses.

Hybrid:

A plant or group of plants that results from the interbreeding of two distinct cultivars, 
varieties, species, or genera.

Indigenous:
Occurring naturally in a particular place. Native.

Iron:

A mineral used in keeping grass green.

Irrigation: 
Applying water to vegetation and landscape to help it thrive.

Leader:
The primary shoot of a plant.

Leaf Burn:
A plant disease that causes a burnt appearance.

Leaf Mold:
A fungal disease of plants in which mold develops on the leaves.

Lime:
Calcium material used to raise the pH in soil.

Macronutrients:
Essential elements needed in large amounts for healthy plant growth: nitrogen, phosphorus, calcium, magnesium, and sulfur.

Micro Climate:
The climate of a small area that is different than the climate of the surrounding area.

Micronutrients:
Essential elements needed in very small amounts for healthy plant growth: iron, copper, zinc, boron, molybdenum, chlorine, and cobalt.

Mulch:
A material used to cover soil for moisture conservation and weed suppression.

Native Plant:

A plant that lives or grows naturally in a particular region without direct or indirect 
human intervention. Indigenous.

Node:
The part of a plant stem from which one or more leaves emerge.

Organic Fertilizer:
Compounds derived from decomposition of plant and animal products and include blood meal, bone meal, manure, and sewage sludge.

Organic Matter:
Biological material in the process of decaying or decomposing.

Osmosis:
When water travels across a membrane.

Peatmoss:
A bog like moss processed to be used in potting soils and helps assimilate nutrients for the plant.

Perennial:
Persisting for several years, usually dying back to a perennial crown during the winter and initiating new growth each spring.

Pesticide:
A chemical used to control an organism.

pH:
The acidity and alkalinity of soil.

Phloem: 
One of the two types of transport tissue in vascular plants, xylem is the other.

Photosynthesis:
The process in which plants convert sunlight energy into chemical energy that can be used as fuel to aid in plant development.

Planter:
The defined area, commonly raised and composed of wood or concrete, used to grow plants.

Plant Family:
A plant that belongs to a family that shares the same broad characterisitcs.

Polladring:
A pruning meathod in which a a tree's top branches are cut back to the trunk so that it may produce a dense growth of new shoots.

Pollen:
A fine powdery substance consisting of microscopic grains discharged from the male part of a flower or from a male cone.

Pollenation:
The process in which pollen is transferred.

Pollenator Bees:
Bees that transfer pollen.

Pollenizer:
A plant that supplies pollen.

Pruning:
A method of cutting parts of a plant off to control size, health and appearance.

Pseudo Bulb:
A storage organ derived from the part of a stem between two leaf nodes.

Re-foliate:
Term used for when a plant grows new leaves after a leafless period, usually in the spring.

Rhizome:
A horizontal, usually underground stem that often sends out roots and shoots from its nodes.

Root Bound:
A plant that has grown too large for its container resulting in matting or tangling of the roots.

Rootstock:

The part of a budded or grafted plant that furnishes the root system. Also called 'understock'.

Rosette:

A circular arrangement of leaves or petals.

Scion:
A detached shoot or twig used in grafting.

Shrub:

A low-growing woody plant, usually under 15 feet that often has multiple stems.

Shock:
A term used to describe a plant that has been impacted by change, i.e. transplanting, weather, too much or too little water, frost, etc.

Sod:
Small areas of turf ready for transplant to new locations. Often used to start a new lawn.

Softscape:
Vegetation used in landscaping which balances with 'hardscape'. Includes trees, flowers, grasses, shrubs. 

Species:
Plant organisms with similar traits capable of off-spring.

Specimen:
An individual plant used to represent a class or genus or plants.

Sphagnum:

A genus of 120 species of mosses, commonly called peat moss, that survives well in wet, acidic soil.

Spore: 

Typically a one-celled, reproductive unit capable of giving rise to a new individual plant.

Spur:

A projecting root or branch.

Standard:

A tree or shrub that grows to full height.

Stolon:

A stem, at or just below the surface of the ground, that produces new plants from buds at it's tips or nodes.

Stress:

The negative impact of non-living forces on a plant.

Sucker:

A secondary shoot produced from the base or roots of a woody plant that gives rise to a new plant.

Tap Root:

An enlarged root, that grows downward and forms a center which other roots sprout laterally.

Tender:

A delicate plant that is usually sensitive to frost or severe cold.

Temperature Tolerance:
Cold or heat, the degree at which a plant can handle temperatures and survive.

Thatch:
The live or dead layer of roots and stems between the turf of a lawn and the soil.

Thinning:
Pruning or removing some branches in a uniform way throughout a tree or shrub.

Topiary:
A decorative style of plant growth controlled by shaping with pruning or shearing.

Transplant:
Moving a plant from one location to another.

Tree:

A woody perennial plant having a single, usually elongated main stem or trunk with 
few or no branches on its lower part.

Tuber:
A thickened, underground stem or rhizome which stores nutrients.

Turf:
A ground cover of grass.

Variegation:
A pattern of leaves that contains either white or yellow markings.

Variety:
A sub-species of plant.

Vegetation:
A general term for all plant life.

Water Sprout:
A nonflowering shoot arising from a branch or axil of a tree or shrub.

Wildflower: A herbaceous plant that is native to a given area and is representative of unselected  forms of its species.

Woody Plant:

A plant with persistent woody parts that do not die back in adverse conditions. Most 
woody plants are trees or shrubs.

Xylem: One of the two types of transport tissue in vascular plants, phloem is the other.

Easy Perennials for Southern California

Southern California is a grower's paradise for many flowers thanks to our climate. Perennial is latin for 'through' and 'year' meaning that they should last at least a couple years, with flowers growing and blooming in spring and summer, dying back in fall and winter, and coming back the next spring and summer. However, many perennials can continue blooming for many years in Southern California's climate before being replaced. Here are some easy perennials that continue to give beautiful blooms year after year:

Lily of the Nile photo by Mark Imhof

Lily of the Nile (Agapanthus): A striking combination of green foliage with long slender leaves that blooms in summer with a ball of multiple purple, blue, or white mini trumpet flowers on a long stalk that reaches up a few feet tall. Does well in full sun areas and can be divided in clumps to replant.

California Fuchsia photo by Stan Shebs

California Fuchsia (Zauschneria californica): This variety is perfect for hotter parts of So Cal because it is considered heat-resistant. This variety has grey-green leafy foliage and long-blooming bright orange, red and fuchsia flowers that last summer into fall. This variety does benefit from pruning to encourage fuller growth.

Butterfly Iris photo by Kristina Palmer

Butterfly Iris (Dietes bicolor): This perennial does well in sun or shade and in hard to grow spots. However, the sunnier the location, the more blooms. Each bloom has a short life of only about a day but it continuously gives off masses of flowers starting in early spring throughout the summer. It has upward, spiky leaves and does well in many types of soil. This variety can also be split and replanted.

Santa Barbara Daisy photo by Rob D. Brodman

Santa Barbara Daisy (Erigeron karvinskianus): A blooming superstar and fast spreader with grey-green leaves and small, yellowed centered blooms. Petals start off white and mature into pink and purple. It is one of the earliest bloomers in spring and lasts long into fall. These do well in part sun and can be used to cascade in containers and planters. It also attracks beneficial insects!




Although you can plant perennials any time of the year in Southern California, planting perennials in the early fall helps get their root sytem established to bloom strong by spring and summer. At Pacific Vista Landscape Services we are experts on all types of flowers and adding color to your garden. We are dedicated to maintaining the beauty and value of your landscape!

Trees Need Special Protection During Construction

Alabama Cooperative Extension

Whether you are remodeling your home or starting completely over, mature trees add value to a property and need special protection during construction. It is not just the trunk that needs to be protected, most damage occurs below ground. Heavy machinery can be detrimental to a tree's root system and depending on the type of tree, roots can be shallow and extend quite far. Rolling equipment, even if it passes only a few times, can compact soil and roots too densely and be harmful to the health of the tree. Excavating or adding too much soil can also damage roots.

A study done by forestry agents at the Alabama Cooperative Extension and mentioned in the National Garden Association's article 'Protecting Trees During Construction' came up with some low cost solutions. "Fencing off the critical root zone -- the area around the tree where roots are most vulnerable to damage from soil compaction -- is key. But where constraints exist that make such fencing off impossible, the foresters discovered some simple ways to lessen the impact of heavy machinery. They found, for example, that simply spreading mulch 8 inches deep and covering it with 3/4 inch plywood distributed the weight of the equipment driving over enough to greatly reduce the amount of soil compaction below."

Tree trimming and care are specialities of our's at Pacific Vista Landscape Services. We can estimate a tree's root system diameter and depth as well as prepare the area with mulch for protection if fencing is not an option. Let us help keep your trees healthy for upcoming years of enjoyment long after the construction is over! 

Southern California: Brush Clearance Time!

In the wake of the Powerhouse Fire, we are all reminded it's that time of year to clear brush in our beautiful Southern California.  Even if you have not received an inspection notice from the Los Angeles Fire Department, do not assume that you do not need to be in compliance. By being proactive, your property will be safer in the event of a fire.

Pacific Vista Landscape Services is here for you to help protect your home by clearing the brush and doing it safely and correctly. The Los Angeles Fire Department website has helpful information for homeowners who are getting ready to clear brush around their homes. It is very important to follow their advice as clearing brush has often led to fires when done incorrectly.

LAFD BRUSH CLEARANCE
SAFETY TIPS FOR HOMEOWNERS:

"Remember that when clearing your brush, safety is very important. In recent
years many brush fires have started by homeowners attempting to clear their
brush. Many times, the sparks produced from metal blades on motorized
equipment has started fires.

The following are simple guidelines for homeowners to follow to clear their brush
safely:

• Always have a water source readily available. A water extinguisher, garden hose or a few buckets of water. 
• Avoid clearing brush during the peak temperatures of the day, between 11:00 am and 3:00 pm and on days when a Red Flag Alert* has been declared by the Fire Department.
• Only use properly maintained motorized equipment and have a spark arrester when required.
• Do not refuel motorized equipment while motor is running. Use approved fuel-dispensing containers only. 
• Always make sure the hot exhaust on any motorized equipment is clear of any vegetation. (grasses, weeds, shrubs) 
• Do not use metal blades on weed whackers/whips. Use nylon line or plastic blades instead.
• Always wear safety glasses and gloves. Hard hats and dust masks are recommended. 

* Red Flag weather days refer to certain weather conditions that can cause a wild-land fire to
 start and to spread rapidly. These conditions generally exist when the winds exceed 25 mph
 and relative humidity is below 15%."

To see LAFD requirements, click here:

LAFD Sketch of General Requirements

0 to 100 Feet Clearance

100 to 200 Feet Clearance.

For more information, call LAFD at
(818) 374-1111, or visit www.lafd.org/brush .

Pacific Vista Landscape Services is here to help with all you landscaping needs and are experts when it comes to clearing brush. Protect your property as much as possible by being in compliance during this dry fire season. Call us for a quote at 661-222-7525!

Rattlesnake Season!

Pacific Vista Landscape Services has eradicated up to 20 rattlesnakes from communities in

Santa Clarita in one year. This year will be one of the worst snake seasons on record experts are predicting thanks to the heavy rains of a few years ago. The snakes are waking up from hibernation and baby snakes are hatching. There are about 300 snakebite cases in California each year. Most bites in California happen between April and October, and they can be fatal.

Do's and don’ts in snake country:                                                      

**Never go barefoot or wear sandals when walking through wild areas. Wear hiking boots.

**When hiking, stick to well-used trails and wear over-the-ankle boots and loose-fitting long pants. Avoid tall grass, weeds and heavy underbrush where snakes may hide during the day.

**Do not step or put your hands where you cannot see, and avoid wandering around in the dark. Step ON logs and rocks, never over them, and be especially careful when climbing rocks or gathering firewood. Check out stumps or logs before sitting down, and shake out sleeping bags before use.

**Be careful when stepping over the doorstep as well. Snakes like to crawl along the edge of buildings where they are protected on one side.

**Never hike alone. Always have someone with you who can assist in an emergency.

**Do not handle a freshly killed snake, it can still inject venom.

**Teach children early to respect snakes and to leave them alone. Children are naturally curious and will pick up snakes.

Keeping snakes out of the yard:

The best protection against rattlesnakes in the yard is a “rattlesnake proof” fence. It can be expensive and requires maintenance, however. The fence should either be solid or with mesh no larger than one-quarter inch. It should be at least three feet high with the bottom buried a few inches in the ground. Slanting your snake fence outward about a 30-degree angle will help. Discourage snakes by removing piles of boards or rocks around the home. Use caution when removing those piles - there may already be a snake there.

What to do in the event of a snake bite:

Though uncommon, rattlesnake bites do occur, so have a plan in place for responding to any situation. Carry a portable phone, hike with a companion who can assist in an emergency, and make sure that family or friends know where you are going and when you will be checking in. The first thing to do if bitten is to stay calm. Generally, the most serious effect of a rattlesnake bite to an adult is local tissue damage which needs to be treated. Children, because they are smaller, are in more danger if they are bitten. Get to a doctor as soon as possible, but stay calm. Frenetic, high-speed driving places the victim at greater risk of an accident and increased heart rate. If the doctor is more than 30 minutes away, keep the bite below the heart, and then try to get to the doctor as quickly as possible.

The California Poison Control Center advises:  CALL 911

·       Stay calm

·       Wash the bite area gently with soap and water

·       Remove watches, rings, etc, which may constrict swelling

·       Immobilize the affected area

·       Transport safely to the nearest medical facility

For more first aid information please visit:   California Poison Control.

April Gardening Tips for Southern California Properties

by Jim Habeger, Pacific Vista Landscape Services, Inc.

Week One:

We suggest you continue to plant container-grown trees, shrubs, ground covers,
and perennial flowers.

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However, in the desert, finish planting this month.

Week Two:

You should continue to plant warm-season annual flowers
(marigolds, petunias, etc.).

Week Three:

Keep mowing regularly -- about once every week or two -- and at the right height. It's the best thing you can do to control weeds and keep grass thick and healthy. In areas where it's hitting the 90s F, mow cool-season lawns such as bluegrass, ryegrasses, or fescues at 3 inches or so (2 inches in cooler weather). Mow warm-season grasses such as Bermuda, St. Augustine, and Zoysia at about 2 inches all growing season long.

Week Four:

De-thatch warm-season lawns, if necessary, once the lawn starts to grow. Fertilize your lawn. If conditions are dry, spider mites may well be starting to take hold. Control them by giving affected plants a strong daily blast with the hose, being sure to get underneath the leaves. This has the nice side effect of also reducing aphid populations. Keep up with watering, paying special attention to newly-planted plants, roses and lawns.

For best use of water, water around established plantings once the soil is dry about 6 inches below the surface. If you don't already have a drip irrigation system set up for your containers, check out the many types available at your garden center. Deadhead fading flower blossoms. You'll keep your garden neater and flowering better longer. Stake tall plants that need it now while they're just a foot or so high and continue to control snails and ants as needed.

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About The Author:
Jim Habeger, President, RMO, CLT, Pacific Vista Landscape, Inc., 2006 - date.
Certified Landscape Technician, 1997 - date.
Licensed Contracator since 1994, 3 Classifications.
25+ years in the landscape industry.
Awards:
City of La Canada, Beautification Award, 2012.
Building of The Year (TOBY), 2011 - BOMA.
Service Partner of The Year, 2011 - CB Richard Ellis.