Showing posts with label plants. Show all posts
Showing posts with label plants. Show all posts

Thursday, October 29, 2015

Coping with the California Drought: Softscapes & Hardscapes

by Pacific Vista Landscape Services
The water-use restrictions in California are forcing property owners to come up with solutions to landscaping that are not only drought-tolerant but also attractive. There are many low-water plants, trees and ground covers that can be used and this is referred to as 'softscape'. In addition, the use of 'hardscape' landscaping includes the use of non-living elements to create pathways, patios and other areas of functional space. Using softscape in combination with hardscape is a creative solution that can produce a beautiful and interesting garden and also save 
valuable water resources and money.  
There are many choices of drought tolerant plants for softscaping that can thrive in Southern California. Mediterranean varieties as well as native plants are among the best suited for our climate. Lavender, thyme and oregano are plants that add beauty and fragrance to a garden and require very little water. Yarrow and California poppy are native plants that also have lower water requirements. Bougainvillea can provide a lovely infusion of color and height on a trellis. Milkweed is a wonderful native plant that helps Monarch butterflies. There are many ornamental grasses like sheep fescue and deergrass, that provide texture and color and can be a great substitute for lawns. Some examples of perennials that have lower water requirements are: mallow, lamb’s ears, catmint, coyote mint, California fuschia and penstemons, to name just a few. Succulents are another good choice for Southern California!                                                      
                                               
While softscaping plants must be chosen to fit the California climate, hardscaping ideas are practically limitless. Rock walls, patios, paths, and boulders are some design elements that can be used. Paths that wander through your garden are inviting and a wonderful way to create depth perception. Pathways can be made of flagstone, concrete, pea gravel, brick, bark, or cobblestone to name a few. Raised planters and divisions can add interest and bring beauty to your design. Adding a water feature with a recirculating pump, like a pond or a birdbath, attracts wildlife and brings tranquility. A garden bench, swing, and patio furniture invites you to relax in your garden. In addition, decks and gazebos are wonderful design elements that can extend your living space into your landscape.

Our professional team at Pacific Vista Landscape Services are experts with creating softscape and hardscape combinations. We can help design, plant, and build your perfect waterwise garden oasis!

Thursday, April 30, 2015

WATER RESTRICTIONS UPDATE APRIL 2015


This month California’s Governor Jerry Brown issued an Executive Order to reduce potable urban water use by 25%.  The State Water Board is implementing various restrictions to help reduce the amount of water used by Californians and an estimated 1.5 million acre-feet of water plans to be saved by the end on nine months. The latest water usage restrictions include:
  • Replacing 50 million square feet of lawns throughout the state with drought tolerant landscaping in partnership with local governments
  • Directing the creation of a temporary, statewide consumer rebate program to replace old appliances with more water and energy efficient models
  • Requiring campuses, golf courses, cemeteries and other large landscapes to make significant cuts in water use
  • Prohibiting new homes and developments from irrigating with potable water unless water-efficient drip irrigation systems are used
  • Ban watering of ornamental grass on public street medians
This was in addition to the previous restrictions passed in October 2014 and March 2015 prohibiting Californians from: 
  • Washing down sidewalks and driveways
  • Watering in a way that causes runoff
  • Washing a motor vehicle without a shut-off nozzle on hose 
  • Operating a fountain or water feature that doesn’t recycle water 
  • No watering during rain or 48 hours after rainfall
  • Restaurants only can serve water to customers who ask for it
  • Hotels must give guests the choice of not having their towels and linens washed on a daily basis. 
Across Southern California one can see violations that hopefully will be addressed with the new restrictions. The VA National Cemetery in Westwood, with acres of grass, had their sprinklers on during the rain the other week which violated watering during or 48 hrs after rainfall restriction. LADWP has many offices across the city with grass landscaping and they are offering rebates for people to switch out their grass for drought tolerant landscape! Speaking of grass, If you happen to drive on San Vicente Blvd. around 2 AM, watch out for the sprinklers watering the roughly four miles of grassy median which sprays into the streets, sometimes missing the grass completely and creating huge puddles of wasted water.  Replacing grass in the medians with drought resistant landscaping would save thousands of gallons of water that wouldn’t be wasted watering the grass (or street) every night.  According to the above restrictions, the city of Los Angeles is now banned from watering medians and will hopefully update these areas
with xeriscape in the future.

There are companies who have been pro-active. Anthem Inc. has taken a huge step in the right direction at their Woodland Hills, CA campus where 12.7 acres of lawn were recently removed and replaced with drought-friendly plants. By the end of the year, Anthem Inc. will have saved 12 million gallons of water simply because they removed their lawns.  The funds that were needed to make this change possible were provided by the LADWP.  Hopefully the LADWP will follow in Anthem’s footsteps and be the next to replace lawns that surround their buildings.  

At Pacific Vista Landscape Services, we are experts switching out lawns for native plants and drought tolerant options as well as non-vegetative landscaping additions. We also have the latest smart technology irrigation systems that can save you even more money in rebates. Call us for a free irrigation evaluation and let us help you save water and money AND have a beautifully landscaped garden!

Wednesday, March 18, 2015

THE LATEST WATER RESTRICTIONS FOR SOUTHERN CALIFORNIA

www.inventistmedia.comby Pacific Vista Landscape Services

As California’s water reservoirs continue to shrink, the need to conserve water is growing. According to recent reports, California roughly has about a year of water left. Time is of the essence, and taking action is necessary. People can do their part to conserve water by following the new restrictions passed by the California State Water Resources Control Board on March 17, 2015.

New restrictions were added since the ones previously enforced have done little to change the pace at which California’s water reservoirs are disappearing. Carrying a $500.00 fine, the regulations passed in October 2014 prohibited Californians from: 
  • washing down sidewalks and driveways
  • watering in a way that causes runoff
  • washing a motor vehicle without a shut-off nozzle on hose 
  • operating a fountain or water feature that doesn’t recycle the water 
These will continued to be enforced, and will be joined by new restrictions which were passed on March 172015. The new restrictions include: 
  • no watering during rain or 48 hours after rainfall
  • restaurants only can serve water to customers who ask for it
  • hotels must give guests the choice of not having their towels and linens washed on a daily basis. 
The latest restrictions are heading in the right direction to help decrease the amount of water used in California. However these steps are only the beginning of necessary water restrictions our state will be facing. People can choose to be pro-active; there is no need to wait until it's mandatory to make other cuts in consumption. Water recycling and catchment programs are an essential part of the solution. 

For landscaping, there are many things you can do to cut your water usage and save money: 
At Pacific Vista Landscape Services, we can help create a climate friendly garden. We are experts when it comes to native plants and drought tolerant options as well as non-vegetative landscaping additions. We also provide the latest smart technology in irrigation systems that can also save you even more money in rebates. Call us for a free irrigation evaluation and let us help you save water and money AND have a beautifully landscaped garden!

More info:

Xeriscaping: The Future of Landscaping

Smart Irrigation: Save Water & Money

A Greener Landscape: Re-Landscape with Lawn Rebates in Southern California

 

Thursday, September 4, 2014

Attracting Pollinators to Your Garden!

by Pacific Vista Landscape Services
Photo by Kristina Lawrence


Three-fourths of the world’s flowering plants and about 35 percent of the world’s food crops depend on pollinators to reproduce. It is estimated that one out of every three bites of food we eat exists because of animal pollinators like bees, butterflies and moths, birds and bats, and beetles and other insects.

During a flower visit, a pollinator may brush against the flower’s reproductive parts, unknowingly depositing pollen from a different flower. The plant then uses the pollen to produce a fruit or seed. Many plants cannot reproduce without pollen carried to them by foraging pollinators so it is a vital part of agriculture.

Planting flowers in your garden can not only provide beauty, but can also be a veritable smorgasbord for pollinators as they prefer a blooming buffet of nectar rich flowers.  There are many to choose from that are heat and drought tolerant, fast growing and colorful.  Many bloom all year long here in Southern California!

Photo by Shannon Palmer
The serenity of sitting on your porch, or peering out your window and seeing the fluttering creatures enjoying your garden cannot be underestimated.  Suddenly your yard looks like the illustration from your favorite picture book! 

Choosing what flowers you plant can actually help create an ecosystem in your own yard. At Pacific Vista Landscape Serviceswe are experts on all types of flowers and adding color to your garden. We are dedicated to maintaining the beauty and value of your landscape!  

Some of the best flowering plants to attract pollinators for Southern California can be found here: http://www.sunset.com/garden/flowers-plants/plants-pollination/view-all

Friday, February 21, 2014

Rose Spotlight: The Native California Wild Rose


by Pacific Vista Landscape Services
Native California wild rose and rose hips

One of the advantages to living in California is that our climate is perfect for growing many types of beautiful plants, including roses. Roses do well here because of the sunny weather and dry air which reduces fungal issues and diseases that can plague roses. There are many beautiful varieties of roses, in all colors and sizes, it's no wonder that roses are widely cultivated and so popular today. However, roses were in California long before people. Taking a look back to the 'root' of roses, uncovers a wonderful native variety known as the Californian wild rose.

There is fossil evidence that the very first roses in North America, known as the wild rose, dates back 35 million years ago and are related to the species we know today. Interestingly, wild roses were also found in Asia dating back 70 million years ago and scientists are not sure why they only grew wild in the Northern Hemisphere. Unlike the modern day rose with many petals, the wild rose has five petals and is open-faced and quite hardy.

The California wild rose is prolific in California and Oregon, growing wildly usually near deep water sources. It is considered to be a 'keystone' species which is a plant that is relied on by other plants, animals, birds and insects that inhabit the area. It supports pollinators like bees and butterflies and is a favorite nesting plant for songbirds. It has a long blooming season from spring into summer and the blooms are wonderfully fragrant.
     
Another interesting attribute is the tiny fruit it provides deep into winter.  Called rose hips, they looks like small red crab apples and contain the rose seeds. They are high in vitamin C and also contains vitamins A, B-3, D and E as well as bioflavonoids.  It is an important food source for birds and animals, was regularly used by the Native Americans, and is widely used today in supplements, teas, and recipes.

The California wild rose is hardy, easy to grow and is relatively pest free. Unlike it's newer relatives, it is drought tolerant once established. It does well in a wide range of soil types and is best planted in medium to large areas. It spreads by sending out underground runner roots and its deep roots make a good barrier from other invasive plants. Plus it will attract bees and butterflies to your garden and maybe a songbird or two!



Friday, January 10, 2014

Xeriscaping: The Future of Landscaping

Xeriscape photo by Inventist Media

by Pacific Vista Landscape Services

What is a xeriscape? The term comes from the Greek word 'xeros' which means 'dry' combined with 'scape' meaning 'dry landscape' but really it means landscaping with plants that need minimal water. Since about 70 percent of the water consumed by an average single-family home is used outdoors, the best place to start conserving water is in your garden. However, xeriscaping with plants that do not need a lot of water does not mean your garden has to look desolate!

Southwestern states have been xeriscaping the longest due to the fact that they have dry climates and it makes sense to not fight mother nature by growing high maintenance gardens and lawns. But with water becoming a diminishing resource everywhere, other states throughout the U.S. are now xeriscaping too. Luckily, in Southern California, we have many drought resistant native plants and a climate that allows us to use low water plants from other similar dry climates like Australia, South Africa, the Middle East, and Mediterranean areas. Many of these plants are lush and beautiful and visually completely different than a typical southwest garden of cacti and rocks. There are many wonderful options and we live in the perfect place for xeriscaping!

Water is still necessary with xeriscapes, especially when plants are new. However they become more drought resistant once established. Many drought tolerant native plants in the wild naturally have deep roots as part of their survival. New, nursery bought plants in pots will take a couple years at minimum to achieve the same deeper root systems as their counterparts in the wild. Xeriscapes work well with low-pressure systems that deliver water right to the roots of the plants but don't go everywhere. A sub-surface water source not only feeds the roots without wasting it on the surface where it can evaporate, it encourages the roots to grow deeper beyond the root ball which ultimately makes it hardier and more drought resistant in the future. Once roots are established, they will require even less supplemental water.

Another important component to xeriscaping is using a ground cover like gravel or mulch. Mulch can be made from organic materials including leaves, grass clippings, straw, shredded bark, sawdust, wood chips, and cardboard. There is also rubber mulch made from recycled tires which does not decompose quickly. Ground cover does a multiple of jobs when it comes to xeriscaping. Most importantly, it helps keep the moisture in the soil and keeps the ground cooler in the summer. It also keeps weeds from competing with plants for water and nutrients.

Xeriscapes are most stunning when designed with a combination of softscapes and hardscapes. Softscape refers to trees, bushes, plants, ground cover, and the living aspects of the garden. Hardscape is the addition of pathways, planters, and outdoor living areas that can make your garden more inviting, accessible, and visually interesting. Hardscapes also mean less softscapes, and less water. The key is to design a layout that is a balance of the two so that your garden complements your home and is low maintenance; saving you water and money!

Our team at Pacific Vista Landscape Services are experts when it comes to xeriscaping and knowing the vast variety of drought resistant plant options. We can work with you to design incredible soft and hardscapes to enhance your property which not only look great but could qualify you for a rebate from your local water company. (See our last article 'A Greener Landscape: Re-Landscape with Lawn Rebates in Southern California'.) We are also certified experts installing smart-water irrigation systems that are efficient and cost effective and are rebate worthy too! Having a beautiful, low maintenance garden makes sense now and in the future!

Friday, October 4, 2013

Composting is Easy!

http://www.inventistmedia.com/
Compost photo by Inventist Media
by Pacific Vista Landscape Services

In nature, once living material drops to the ground, decays, and eventually decomposes creating compost. This material is essential because it adds nutrients to the soil helping living plants thrive. It is easy to create your own compost and make your garden thrive as well!

The first essential ingredient for creating compost is air. The bacteria and fungus microbes that are in your compost pile need oxygen to live. If your pile is too dense or becomes too wet, the air supply to the inside is cut off and the beneficial organisms will die. Decomposition will slow and an offensive odor may arise. To avoid this, turn and fluff the pile with a pitchfork often, perhaps weekly. You can also turn the pile by just re-piling it into a new pile.


Next is water. One of the most common mistakes in composting is letting the pile get too dry. Your compost pile should be moist as a wrung-out sponge. A moisture content of 40 to 60 percent is preferable. To test for adequate moisture, reach into your compost pile and grab a handful of material and squeeze it; if a few drops of water come out, it's probably got enough moisture, if it doesn't, add water. When you water, it is best to put a hose into the pile so that you aren't just wetting the top. You can also water as you are turning the pile. During dry weather, you may have to add water regularly. During wet weather, you may need to cover your pile. A properly constructed compost pile will drain excess water and not become soggy.


Third essential ingredient is carbon. Microbes need carbon for energy to be able to break down the organic material. Brown yard and garden material such as dry leaves, twigs, hay, or shredded paper can provide the carbon balance for a compost pile. Chop or shred large pieces to 12 inches or shorter (thick, woody branches should be chipped, ground up, or left out). 


Lastly, composting needs nitrogen. Nitrogen is the protein required to fuel the bodies of the microbes so they can do their job. Green materials such as grass clipping and landscape trimmings are ideal sources of nitrogen for composting. Vegetable and fruit trimmings and peels can also provide nitrogen for composting. Coffee grounds and tea bags may look brown, but are actually potent nitrogen sources. To reduce the potential for pests or odors, avoid meat or dairy scraps and always bury food scraps deep within the compost pile. Avoid pet feces due to concerns about pathogens. However, manure from chickens, turkeys, cows or horses is rich in nitrogen, and can help your compost pile get to proper temperatures, and make very good compost.

You can compost in a contained bin or, if it's ok with your city, have an outside pile right on the ground. Ideally, the compost pile should be at least three feet wide by three feet deep by three feet tall (one cubic yard). This size provides enough food and insulation for the organisms to live. However, piles can be larger or smaller and work just fine if managed well.  

The easiest compost recipe calls for blending roughly one part of green or wet material (which is high in nitrogen) and two parts brown or dry material (which is high in carbon). Having the right ratio of carbon to nitrogen is important. "Piles with too much nitrogen tend to smell, because the excess nitrogen converts into an ammonia gas. Carbon-rich piles break down slowly because there's not enough nitrogen for the microbe population to expand. An ideal compost pile should have a 30:1 C/N ratio. Grass clippings alone have about a 20:1 C/N ratio. Adding one part grass clippings, or other green, to two parts dead leaves, or other brown, will give you the right mix." (source: http://www.organicgardening.com/learn-and-grow/composting-101) Simply layer or mix these materials in a pile or enclosure; chop or shred large pieces to 12" or shorter. Water and fluff the compost to add air. Then leave it to the microorganisms, which will break down the material over time.

Compost piles that have the right blend of nitrogen and carbon and are kept moist and fluffed regularly, will heat up to temperatures of 120 to 140 degrees Fahrenheit. The high temperature will kill most weed seeds and speed up the decomposition process so that the compost may be ready in 2 to 3 months or less. Casual compost piles are also quite workable since compost will happen even if you just pile on yard and food waste, water sporadically, and wait. Since these piles don't get too hot, often worms will migrate into these and they will help breakdown material as well. Casual composting can take several months.

Composting is finished when the original material has been transformed into a uniform, dark brown, crumbly product with a pleasant, earthy aroma. There may be a few chunks of woody material left; these can be screened out and put back into a new pile. Besides making incredible, nutrient rich soil for your garden, using left over food scraps in your compost cuts down food waste that would otherwise end up in land fills! Composting is a win-win! 

Friday, September 6, 2013

Landscaping 101: Glossary of Terms

Here are some commonly used terms in landscaping:
by Pacific Vista Landscape Services

Accent:
The use of a plant or object to draw attention to a space.

Acidic soil: 
Soil with a pH value of less than 7.0.

Aeration:
A method of increasing water and oxygen into compact soil by turning and loosening the soil to allow penetration.

Alkaline soil: 
Soil with a pH value of more than 7.0.

Annual:
A plant that completes its life cycle in one year or season.

Apex: 
The tip of a stem.

Arbor: 
A shady garden shelter or bower, often made of rustic wood or latticework on which vines, roses, etc. are grown.

Arboretum:
A landscaped space where trees, shrubs, and herbaceous plants are cultivated for scientific study, educational purposes, and to foster appreciation of plants.

Axil:
The area between a leaf and the stem from which the leaf arises.

Bacillus Thuringiensis(BT):
Biological Control

Beneficial Biological Controls:
Insects and organic chemicals

Biennial:
A plant that typically takes two years to complete it's life cycle.


Budding:
A form of asexual reproduction in which a new organism develops from an outgrowth or bud on another one.

Bulb:
An underground plant structure that contains nutrients, energy and seed to produce a plant.

Cambrium Layer:
The thin layer of growing cells between the xylem and phloem.

Chlorosis:
Iron deficiency

Clay:
A soil particle which is plate-like, extremely small and may retain nutrients well.

Clod:
A lump of clay which is difficult to break apart.

Cold Hardy:
Capable of withstanding cold weather conditions.

Compost:
A soil product created from decomposed garden material, used in flower beds to add nutrients and encourage good growth.

Cultivar:
A cultivated variety of a plant selected for some feature that distinguishes it from 
the species from which it was selected.

Cultivation:
Turning the soil to provide better air circulation or to control weeds.

Dead Heading:
Removing dead flowers before they set seed.

Deciduous:
Having leaves that fall off or are shed 
seasonally to avoid adverse weather conditions such as cold or drought.

Defoliation:
The process when a plant looses all its leaves.

Dethatching:
Removing thatches in grass; removal of the dead grass.


Die Back:
Tips of branches decline due to lack of moisture or disease.

Dormancey:
When a plant reaches a dormant period, usually in winter.

Drainage:
The downward movement of water passing through soil.


Drip Line:
Outmost branch tips where the water would land to feed the tree.

Drought Tolerant:
The ability of a plant to thrive without much water.


Epiphyte:
A plant that lives on a host plant but draws nutrients from the air.

Espalier:
A flat or fan like like trellis.

Established Plant:
When the plant is fully rooted.

Evergreen:
A plant whose leaves or needles are green year-round.

Fertilizer:
A material added to feed plants rich in nutrients, usually nitrogen (often lost with frequent mowing), phosphates and potash.

Fescue:
Soft compact fine-leafed grasses.


Flower Form:
Structure of a flower, i.e. single, semi, double.

Foundation Plant: plant that is used to frame around a house or structure and connect it to the rest of the landscape.

Frond:
A large leaf with multiple divisions.

Fungicide:
The chemical used to control a fungus-related disease.

Germination:
The sprouting of a seed, spore or pollen grain.


Genus:
A subdivion of a family or subfamily in the classification of organisms.

Girdling:
Also called ring-barking, is the removal of bark around the circumference of the tree in a ring. The result is a slow death to the part of the tree or woody plant above the damage.

Grading:
The process of changing the slope level of an area of soil.


Grafting:
Combining the vascular tissues of two plants to form a hybrid by placing a portion of one plant (called a bud or scion) into or on a stem, root, or branch of another (called the stock) in such a way that a union forms and the partners continue to grow.

Ground Cover:
Plants which are low-growing and create a blanket appearance over an area.


Growing Season:
The period each year when the plant grows.

Hardscape:

Walkways, planters, and areas made of hard material like concrete or rocks that is incorporated into the landscape and balances with the 'softscape'.

Hardy:
Plants that can survive difficult conditions like frost and severe cold.

Hedge:
A variety of shrubs that when planted close together will give a wall-like appearance; often used to separate areas.


Herbaceous:
Having little or no woody tissue. Most plants grown as perennials or annuals are herbaceous.

Herbicide:
A chemical used to control weeds.


Horticulture:
The science of growing plants, flowers, trees, shrubs, fruit, & grasses.

Hybrid:
A plant or group of plants that results from the interbreeding of two distinct cultivars, 
varieties, species, or genera.

Indigenous:
Occurring naturally in a particular place. Native.

Iron:
A mineral used in keeping grass green.

Irrigation: 

Applying water to vegetation and landscape to help it thrive.

Leader:
The primary shoot of a plant.

Leaf Burn:
A plant disease that causes a burnt appearance.

Leaf Mold:
A fungal disease of plants in which mold develops on the leaves.

Lime:
Calcium material used to raise the pH in soil.

Macronutrients:
Essential elements needed in large amounts for healthy plant growth: nitrogen, phosphorus, calcium, magnesium, and sulfur.


Micro Climate:
The climate of a small area that is different than the climate of the surrounding area.

Micronutrients:
Essential elements needed in very small amounts for healthy plant growth: iron, copper, zinc, boron, molybdenum, chlorine, and cobalt.

Mulch:
A material used to cover soil for moisture conservation and weed suppression.

Native Plant:
A plant that lives or grows naturally in a particular region without direct or indirect 
human intervention. Indigenous.

Node:
The part of a plant stem from which one or more leaves emerge.

Organic Fertilizer:
Compounds derived from decomposition of plant and animal products and include blood meal, bone meal, manure, and sewage sludge.


Organic Matter:
Biological material in the process of decaying or decomposing.

Osmosis:
When water travels across a membrane.


Peatmoss:
A bog like moss processed to be used in potting soils and helps assimilate nutrients for the plant.

Perennial:
Persisting for several years, usually dying back to a perennial crown during the winter and initiating new growth each spring.

Pesticide:
A chemical used to control an organism.

pH:
The acidity and alkalinity of soil.


Phloem: 
One of the two types of transport tissue in vascular plants, xylem is the other.

Photosynthesis:
The process in which plants convert sunlight energy into chemical energy that can be used as fuel to aid in plant development.

Planter:
The defined area, commonly raised and composed of wood or concrete, used to grow plants.


Plant Family:
A plant that belongs to a family that shares the same broad characterisitcs.

Polladring:
A pruning meathod in which a a tree's top branches are cut back to the trunk so that it may produce a dense growth of new shoots.

Pollen:
A fine powdery substance consisting of microscopic grains discharged from the male part of a flower or from a male cone.

Pollenation:
The process in which pollen is transferred.

Pollenator Bees:
Bees that transfer pollen.

Pollenizer:
A plant that supplies pollen.

Pruning:
A method of cutting parts of a plant off to control size, health and appearance.

Pseudo Bulb:
A storage organ derived from the part of a stem between two leaf nodes.

Re-foliate:
Term used for when a plant grows new leaves after a leafless period, usually in the spring.


Rhizome:
A horizontal, usually underground stem that often sends out roots and shoots from its nodes.

Root Bound:
A plant that has grown too large for its container resulting in matting or tangling of the roots.

Rootstock:
The part of a budded or grafted plant that furnishes the root system. Also called 'understock'.

Rosette:
A circular arrangement of leaves or petals.

Scion:
A detached shoot or twig used in grafting.

Shrub:
A low-growing woody plant, usually under 15 feet that often has multiple stems.

Shock:
A term used to describe a plant that has been impacted by change, i.e. transplanting, weather, too much or too little water, frost, etc.


Sod:
Small areas of turf ready for transplant to new locations. Often used to start a new lawn.

Softscape:

Vegetation used in landscaping which balances with 'hardscape'. Includes trees, flowers, grasses, shrubs. 

Species:
Plant organisms with similar traits capable of off-spring.

Specimen:
An individual plant used to represent a class or genus or plants.

Sphagnum:
A genus of 120 species of mosses, commonly called peat moss, that survives well in wet, acidic soil.

Spore: 
Typically a one-celled, reproductive unit capable of giving rise to a new individual plant.

Spur:
A projecting root or branch.

Standard:
A tree or shrub that grows to full height.

Stolon:
A stem, at or just below the surface of the ground, that produces new plants from buds at it's tips or nodes.

Stress:
The negative impact of non-living forces on a plant.

Sucker:
A secondary shoot produced from the base or roots of a woody plant that gives rise to a new plant.

Tap Root:
An enlarged root, that grows downward and forms a center which other roots sprout laterally.

Tender:
A delicate plant that is usually sensitive to frost or severe cold.

Temperature Tolerance:
Cold or heat, the degree at which a plant can handle temperatures and survive.

Thatch:
The live or dead layer of roots and stems between the turf of a lawn and the soil.


Thinning:
Pruning or removing some branches in a uniform way throughout a tree or shrub.

Topiary:
A decorative style of plant growth controlled by shaping with pruning or shearing.

Transplant:
Moving a plant from one location to another.

Tree:
A woody perennial plant having a single, usually elongated main stem or trunk with 
few or no branches on its lower part.

Tuber:
A thickened, underground stem or rhizome which stores nutrients.

Turf:
A ground cover of grass.

Variegation:
A pattern of leaves that contains either white or yellow markings.


Variety:
A sub-species of plant.

Vegetation:
A general term for all plant life.

Water Sprout:
A nonflowering shoot arising from a branch or axil of a tree or shrub.

Wildflower:
A herbaceous plant that is native to a given area and is representative of unselected 

forms of its species.

Woody Plant:
A plant with persistent woody parts that do not die back in adverse conditions. Most 
woody plants are trees or shrubs.

Xylem: One of the two types of transport tissue in vascular plants, phloem is the other.


Tuesday, June 18, 2013

Using Native Californian Plants Helps Water Conservation

Using native Californian plants is an excellent way to conserve water. By planting indigenous vegetation, less water is used to enable plants to thrive, once established, versus a variety that would need increased water to survive in our climate. The following is some native Californian options from DWP's Bewaterwise.com:


Shrubs:
California Redbud: "An interesting plant all year long, with magenta flowers on leafless stems in summer, followed by crimson seedpods and heart-shaped blue-green leaves. Deciduous, with yellow or red fall foliage falling away in winter to reveal smooth reddish brown trunks. Long lived, very drought tolerant, and flowers more profusely as it matures.

Cleveland Sage: With nearly 100 species available in Western nurseries and an estimated 900 the world over, it was hard to choose just one sage to include. The Cleveland sage is the most fragrant, its scent carrying 20 feet on a warm night. Its fragrant pale lavender to violet blue flowers bloom in early summer. Drought tolerant.

Ceanothus 'Concha':This California lilac is a large shrub with a dense mass of dark green,1-inch leaves, with dark blue clusters of flowers appearing in spring. Requires good drainage; can tolerate summer water. Grows to six feet.

Coffee Berry: Very drought tolerant, particularly when established. Dark green to yellowish green leaves can be either shiny or dull. Berries turn from green to red to black during a lengthy ripening period. Moderate growth that can be pruned and shaped. Grows from 3-15 feet tall, 8 feet wide.

Trees:
Coast Live Oak: Handsome shade tree. Round-headed with dense foliage, grows 20-70 feet tall. Smooth, dark grey bark, with leathery dark green leaves. Native to coastal central and Southern California.
Western Sycamore: Smooth, gracefully twisted branches, multiple or leaning 
trunks. Patchy brown, gray and white bark. Can grow 15-20 feet in 5-10 years. Drought tolerant once established. Attracts hummingbirds and butterflies.

Perennials and Annuals:
California Poppy: What native plant list would be complete without the flower chosen as the state emblem in 1903? Great for grassy slopes, foothills, along drives or in naturalized gardens. Cup-shaped yellow, orange or white flowers bloom from February sometimes through summer. A perennial more often grown as an annual, this wildflower is easily grown from seed and may intrude where it is not wanted.

Deer Grass: Bright green leaves in a dense clump growing to 4 feet wide and high. Slender yellow or purplish flower spikes in autumn are erect at first, and then leaning. Takes full sun or light shade; little or no water.

Island Alum Root: This evergreen perennial plant attracts hummingbirds each spring when hundreds of pinkish white flowers blossom in 2-3 foot clusters. Makes a good ground cover or border. Very drought tolerant and cold resistant. Grows to approximately 1 foot high by 2 feet wide.

Succulents
Chalk Dudlea: A picturesque succulent that thrives in containers with little attention. Needs well-drained soil, sun, and very little water. Increases in size through formation of new rosettes."

These variations are a beautiful way to preserve our natural vegetation in California and they make the most sense for water conservation. Our professionals at Pacific Vista Landscape Services are experts in choosing low-water vegetation and installing energy efficient sprinkler systems for a flourishing native Californian landscaped garden that saves water and money!