Showing posts with label maintenance. Show all posts
Showing posts with label maintenance. Show all posts

Thursday, October 29, 2015

Coping with the California Drought: Softscapes & Hardscapes

by Pacific Vista Landscape Services
The water-use restrictions in California are forcing property owners to come up with solutions to landscaping that are not only drought-tolerant but also attractive. There are many low-water plants, trees and ground covers that can be used and this is referred to as 'softscape'. In addition, the use of 'hardscape' landscaping includes the use of non-living elements to create pathways, patios and other areas of functional space. Using softscape in combination with hardscape is a creative solution that can produce a beautiful and interesting garden and also save 
valuable water resources and money.  
There are many choices of drought tolerant plants for softscaping that can thrive in Southern California. Mediterranean varieties as well as native plants are among the best suited for our climate. Lavender, thyme and oregano are plants that add beauty and fragrance to a garden and require very little water. Yarrow and California poppy are native plants that also have lower water requirements. Bougainvillea can provide a lovely infusion of color and height on a trellis. Milkweed is a wonderful native plant that helps Monarch butterflies. There are many ornamental grasses like sheep fescue and deergrass, that provide texture and color and can be a great substitute for lawns. Some examples of perennials that have lower water requirements are: mallow, lamb’s ears, catmint, coyote mint, California fuschia and penstemons, to name just a few. Succulents are another good choice for Southern California!                                                      
                                               
While softscaping plants must be chosen to fit the California climate, hardscaping ideas are practically limitless. Rock walls, patios, paths, and boulders are some design elements that can be used. Paths that wander through your garden are inviting and a wonderful way to create depth perception. Pathways can be made of flagstone, concrete, pea gravel, brick, bark, or cobblestone to name a few. Raised planters and divisions can add interest and bring beauty to your design. Adding a water feature with a recirculating pump, like a pond or a birdbath, attracts wildlife and brings tranquility. A garden bench, swing, and patio furniture invites you to relax in your garden. In addition, decks and gazebos are wonderful design elements that can extend your living space into your landscape.

Our professional team at Pacific Vista Landscape Services are experts with creating softscape and hardscape combinations. We can help design, plant, and build your perfect waterwise garden oasis!

Monday, September 21, 2015

California's Water Conservation Program Appears to be Working!

by Pacific Vista Landscape Services

When state officials of California determined 
that 2013 was one of the driest years in the history of the state, the news that California was in a drought became evident. However, it was not until January of this year, that California’s Governor Jerry Brown declared a drought emergency for the state. In April, the governor put mandatory water use restrictions in place, the first of their kind, on all residents, farms and businesses. Then, Governor Brown signed an executive order mandating a 25 percent reduction of water use in California. So how is California doing? The numbers are in, and it appears that California's Water Conservation Program is working!

In June, the statewide use of water met the requirements by dropping water use by 27%. In July, the reduction of water use was even better, reaching a 31% reduction.

The water savings may have been helped by a higher than average summer rainfall. The rainfall in Los Angeles broke a record in July; a record established in 1886. The target for Los Angeles water conservation rate was 16%, but L.A. was able to meet and exceed that goal by reducing water use by 21%.

July water savings exceeded the June records by reducing use by over 31%, even in higher temperatures in the state this summer. Again, record rainfall contributed to the savings, but Californians are definitely doing their part to conserve.

Overall, most water agencies in California have met or nearly met their water conservation goals. According to the State Water Resources Control Board, this accounts for more than 70% of these agencies with only four missing their conservation targets by 15% or more.

The State Water Resources Control Board states, that at the present time, none of the water districts that are presently out of compliance have been fined yet; however, there are nine agencies that will receive a “conservation order” instructing them to take actions, including audits, to encourage users to comply with their water use standards. However, the state board has put pressure on agencies to increase enforcement. Water rates have been raised to reduce use, and recently, financial penalties are starting to be issued.

The best way for a property owner to reduce water use is two-fold. It is important to switch out grass and other water-needy plants for drought tolerant landscape which include all native plants and trees as well as many Mediterranean varieties. The other important element for saving water and money is a Smart Irrigation System that monitors the soil and only waters when needed. Combining the latest irrigation technology and drought tolerant landscape makes for a gorgeous and efficient garden!

Sources:

http://www.nbclosangeles.com/news/local/California-Drought-Water-Conservation-Report-320013141.html

http://www.sgvtribune.com/environment-and-nature/20150730/californians-cut-water-use-by-27-percent-in-june-exceeding-governors-mandate

http://www.desertsun.com/story/news/environment/2015/08/27/california-drought-cities-cut-water-use-july/71277538/

http://www.cbsnews.com/news/california-cuts-water-use-amid-drought/

Friday, August 28, 2015

The Benefits of Aloe Vera!

by Pacific Vista Landscape Services

Its health benefits are advertised widely and there is good reason. The aloe vera plant has a lot to offer!

The gel from aloe vera can help heal wounds or moisten dry areas. The plant's gel acts like a natural antiseptic by disinfecting the cut or burn and helping it heal. The gel is also a moisturizer for dry lips, elbows, knees, toes, feet, etc. It is often referred to as the "natural healer" or the "miracle plant." Many companies sell products with aloe vera in it but why not have your own supply on hand. Just cut a piece off and squeeze out the gel! 

People are drinking the juice, called aloe water, to gain its benefits internally. Rich in antioxidants and a natural anti-inflammatory, aloe water is thought to aid digestion, strengthen the immune system, help blood circulation, lower cholesterol, among many other health benefits!

Aloe vera is easy to grow! In the beginning, people found this miracle plant in the regions of north-eastern and southern areas of Africa and Madagascar and used it in their daily lives. Now there are over 250 species around the world and its helpful properties are used in many cultures.

Aloe vera is considered semi-tropical and thrives in warm, dry climates. It can grow from the
size of a golf ball to 5 feet across! It is not fast growing and it is easy to take care of. If your plant grows new baby aloes, those can be taken out and grown to another adult plant which is called propagation. It is part of the succulent family and is drought tolerant so it is perfect to grow outdoors in Southern California!

It can also grow indoors in a sunny place. If your aloe vera plant is in a pot, make sure it has plenty of room to grow deep roots. Your pot should also have holes on the bottom to drain extra water as succulents' roots will rot in too much water.


Aloe vera is a very useful plant. From it's health benefits, to being easy to take care of and perfect for Southern California, it's hard to beat!

Friday, July 17, 2015

Coping with the California Drought: Smart Watering Systems!

by Pacific Vista Landscape Services

California's drought conditions are worsening, and with the water use restrictions imposed by the state, homeowners and commercial property owners struggle with how to keep their plants and lawns alive. Well, it's definitely time to ditch the lawn (see: Coping with the California Drought: Ditching the Lawn!) Even drought tolerant landscaping needs some water until roots are established and deep enough to be 'tolerant', at which point they will require even less water, but why change your landscape and then have the same sprinkler system that pumps out too much water? Thankfully, there are a group of new products that provide a “smart” system that is designed to increase efficiency and reduce irrigation waste.


Smart Wifi Enabled Irrigation Controller

These innovative, high-tech controllers can assess the conditions of the landscaping in real time, and accordingly deliver the right amount of water. These systems include soil sensors to determine the amount of moisture in the soil and special sprinkler heads to limit runoff. The Environmental Protection Agency has stated that replacing the old clock timers with these smart controllers can save more than 8,000 gallons of water per year in the average home. 

The smart wifi enabled irrigation controller has “weather intelligence” which eliminates the need to schedule watering times. Weather and seasonal adjustments are made and watering is done automatically based on this data. The unit also reports on water use and calculates savings. This means that your garden can be watered automatically with the exact amount of water needed based on local forecast from weather stations and satellites. You can also assign zones in your yard and control each zone based on watering needs and plant types. The systems can help eliminate runoff by coordinating watering times with times when no watering is done. This type of scheduling helps to increase the ability of the soil to absorb the water.

Some of the smart controller units can operate on either a power line or a Wi-Fi network and 
can be easily controlled from anywhere with an Android or iOS smart phone or tablet. Thus, these smart sprinkler controllers maintain watering schedules while using as little water as possible to keep landscapes looking their best. If the product you choose is EPA WaterSense certified, the installation of one of these may qualify the owner to receive rebates from the local water municipalities. To see a list of the EPA approved products, go to www.epa.gov/watersense, or www.socalwatersmart.com.

At Pacific Vista Landscape Services, we are experts with the latest smart irrigation systems and can handle any size property. Our clients include everything from individual residential properties, HOA communities, small and large apartment complexes, and large commercial properties including universities and hospitals. Trust us with all your landscaping needs and let us help you save water and money!

Thursday, May 28, 2015

Using Greywater for Irrigation!

by Pacific Vista Landscape Services

Diminishing water supplies is a world-wide problem. In the United States, with population increase and an increasing decline in water supply, the best current solution is a reduction in water use. To address this problem, many states and communities are imposing water use restrictions. In April, 2015, for the first time in the state’s history, California Governor Jerry Brown imposed an executive order for a 25% reduction in water use statewide. Restrictions to landscape watering is the most common. A great solution to reducing water use in landscaping is greywater irrigation!

WHAT IS GREYWATER?

Greywater is all wash-water waste generated by a home or business. This is water from the washing machine, the sinks, bathtubs and showers and can be re-used! However, toilet waste and waste from garbage disposals and dishwashers is blackwater which contains high levels of nitrogen and pathogens and cannot be used in irrigation.

GREYWATER CAN BE USED FOR IRRIGATION:

Yes, greywater can be used for irrigation; but the codes and regulations on this process varies from state to state. Californians, for instance, have used greywater irrigation systems illegally for many years. Due to these practices, the California Greywater Code was re-written with significant changes. This code designates three types of greywater systems:

Clothes Washer System: This is probably the most commonly used as it is the easiest to implement, but there are restrictions on its use. It can use only a single washing machine in a family dwelling, and must be a domestic, not a commercial machine. This system may only use gravity or the pump from the washing machine itself to irrigate the desired areas in the yard or garden. The washing machine system may use up to 15 gallons per day per person in the household. It does not require a construction permit as long as it does not require cutting of the pipes that exist.

Simple System: This system also serves a one or two family residence. The discharge of greywater is greater than the clothes washer system, and discharges up to 250 gallons per day. A construction permit is needed for a simple system.

Complex System: This is a greywater system that uses over 250 gallons per day, and also requires a construction permit. The simple and complex systems are subject to inspection and possible percolation tests until they are approved.To install a whole-house system is a fairly simple matter in new construction, but is difficult in existing buildings.

WHAT ARE SOME OF THE BASIC REQUIREMENTS FOR USING GREYWATER:


Two inch covering regulation: The irrigation system using greywater must be covered by 2” of some kind of material to avoid contact with the greywater.

Drip system of greywater irrigation: The drip system works the best with graywater irrigation. Spray irrigation is not to be used with greywater. Also, greywater is not to have run-off or ponding, and cannot reach any body of water or storm drain.

No irrigation of crops intended for human consumption: Greywater may not be used for this; and, in addition, human contact with the system should be minimized.

(To read the entire California Greywater Code, go to:January 27, 2010 (2007 CPC, Title 24, Part 5, Chapter 16A, Part I – Nonpotable Water Reuse Systems)

Pacific Vista Landscape is focused on water conservation. Re-using your greywater to irrigate your landscape can not only result in water reduction, but is a great way to keep a beautiful garden during drought conditions. Our professional team are experts with the latest irrigation technology and can implement a greywater re-use system for your property. We will even evaluate your current system for free! Give us a call and see how we can save you water AND money now and in the years to come!

Tuesday, January 13, 2015

The Art of Pruning

by Pacific Vista Landscape

It’s winter, so that means it’s time to start pruning! Pruning, the cutting away of branches and stems that are dead or overgrown, is essential when it comes to a tree or shrub’s growth, ability to produce flowers and/or fruit, and its resistance to pests or diseases. With the unnecessary branches and stems gone, there is more energy available to the rest of the plant. This extra energy is used to promote growth and the production of fruit and/or flowers.

Winter is the ideal time to prune most deciduous trees or shrubs because this is when they are dormant and don’t have many leaves that would interfere with pruning. Be aware, not ALL deciduous trees can be pruned in the winter! Avoid pruning maples, birches, dogwoods, walnuts, and elms during the winter because they will begin to ooze sap. This is not only messy, but also dangerous for the tree. Evergreen trees or shrubs shouldn’t be pruned during the winter either because they can develop tip burn in cold 
temperatures. A few examples of deciduous trees or shrubs you SHOULD prune in winter are roses, hydrangeas, spruce, plum, barberry, juniper, mallow, and sumacs. 

To begin pruning, locate any dead, diseased, or overgrown branches that need to be removed. When cutting a branch from a tree, it’s important to cut along the branch collar. The branch collar on a tree is the scrunched up bark where the branch and trunk come together. When cut here, the tree will naturally form a callus. When removing an unwanted branch that is part of larger branch, avoid leaving behind a stump because this can harm the tree.

Pruning also involves thinning the canopy, which means some branches or stems are removed throughout the tree or shrub to increase airflow and enhance the appearance. When thinning the canopy, it’s important to start from the center and work your way out to the exterior. Make sure to pay constant attention to the appearance of the tree or shrub while you are pruning. It’s suggested to cut the tree or shrub with its natural shape in mind and to avoid giving trees a flat top (also known as scalping). Be careful not to take too much of the plant away while pruning, or the plant won’t survive! 

Pruning is essential in maintaining and caring for a deciduous tree or shrub. A tree or shrub’s ability to grow, bloom, and bear fruit is enhanced when pruned properly in winter.

Safety first! If the tree you want to prune is too large or near power lines, then a professional arborist should be contacted. At Pacific Vista Landscape Services, we are pruning experts! Give us a call and we can help with all your tree trimming and landscaping needs!

Thursday, September 4, 2014

Attracting Pollinators to Your Garden!

by Pacific Vista Landscape Services
Photo by Kristina Lawrence


Three-fourths of the world’s flowering plants and about 35 percent of the world’s food crops depend on pollinators to reproduce. It is estimated that one out of every three bites of food we eat exists because of animal pollinators like bees, butterflies and moths, birds and bats, and beetles and other insects.

During a flower visit, a pollinator may brush against the flower’s reproductive parts, unknowingly depositing pollen from a different flower. The plant then uses the pollen to produce a fruit or seed. Many plants cannot reproduce without pollen carried to them by foraging pollinators so it is a vital part of agriculture.

Planting flowers in your garden can not only provide beauty, but can also be a veritable smorgasbord for pollinators as they prefer a blooming buffet of nectar rich flowers.  There are many to choose from that are heat and drought tolerant, fast growing and colorful.  Many bloom all year long here in Southern California!

Photo by Shannon Palmer
The serenity of sitting on your porch, or peering out your window and seeing the fluttering creatures enjoying your garden cannot be underestimated.  Suddenly your yard looks like the illustration from your favorite picture book! 

Choosing what flowers you plant can actually help create an ecosystem in your own yard. At Pacific Vista Landscape Serviceswe are experts on all types of flowers and adding color to your garden. We are dedicated to maintaining the beauty and value of your landscape!  

Some of the best flowering plants to attract pollinators for Southern California can be found here: http://www.sunset.com/garden/flowers-plants/plants-pollination/view-all

Friday, January 10, 2014

Xeriscaping: The Future of Landscaping

Xeriscape photo by Inventist Media

by Pacific Vista Landscape Services

What is a xeriscape? The term comes from the Greek word 'xeros' which means 'dry' combined with 'scape' meaning 'dry landscape' but really it means landscaping with plants that need minimal water. Since about 70 percent of the water consumed by an average single-family home is used outdoors, the best place to start conserving water is in your garden. However, xeriscaping with plants that do not need a lot of water does not mean your garden has to look desolate!

Southwestern states have been xeriscaping the longest due to the fact that they have dry climates and it makes sense to not fight mother nature by growing high maintenance gardens and lawns. But with water becoming a diminishing resource everywhere, other states throughout the U.S. are now xeriscaping too. Luckily, in Southern California, we have many drought resistant native plants and a climate that allows us to use low water plants from other similar dry climates like Australia, South Africa, the Middle East, and Mediterranean areas. Many of these plants are lush and beautiful and visually completely different than a typical southwest garden of cacti and rocks. There are many wonderful options and we live in the perfect place for xeriscaping!

Water is still necessary with xeriscapes, especially when plants are new. However they become more drought resistant once established. Many drought tolerant native plants in the wild naturally have deep roots as part of their survival. New, nursery bought plants in pots will take a couple years at minimum to achieve the same deeper root systems as their counterparts in the wild. Xeriscapes work well with low-pressure systems that deliver water right to the roots of the plants but don't go everywhere. A sub-surface water source not only feeds the roots without wasting it on the surface where it can evaporate, it encourages the roots to grow deeper beyond the root ball which ultimately makes it hardier and more drought resistant in the future. Once roots are established, they will require even less supplemental water.

Another important component to xeriscaping is using a ground cover like gravel or mulch. Mulch can be made from organic materials including leaves, grass clippings, straw, shredded bark, sawdust, wood chips, and cardboard. There is also rubber mulch made from recycled tires which does not decompose quickly. Ground cover does a multiple of jobs when it comes to xeriscaping. Most importantly, it helps keep the moisture in the soil and keeps the ground cooler in the summer. It also keeps weeds from competing with plants for water and nutrients.

Xeriscapes are most stunning when designed with a combination of softscapes and hardscapes. Softscape refers to trees, bushes, plants, ground cover, and the living aspects of the garden. Hardscape is the addition of pathways, planters, and outdoor living areas that can make your garden more inviting, accessible, and visually interesting. Hardscapes also mean less softscapes, and less water. The key is to design a layout that is a balance of the two so that your garden complements your home and is low maintenance; saving you water and money!

Our team at Pacific Vista Landscape Services are experts when it comes to xeriscaping and knowing the vast variety of drought resistant plant options. We can work with you to design incredible soft and hardscapes to enhance your property which not only look great but could qualify you for a rebate from your local water company. (See our last article 'A Greener Landscape: Re-Landscape with Lawn Rebates in Southern California'.) We are also certified experts installing smart-water irrigation systems that are efficient and cost effective and are rebate worthy too! Having a beautiful, low maintenance garden makes sense now and in the future!

Wednesday, November 6, 2013

Tree Care: TLC For Your Tree!

Eucalyptus Tree photo by Inventist Media
by Pacific Vista Landscape Services

One of the most important services we provide at Pacific Vista Landscape is tree care. Trees bring beauty to a property and increased value. They also absorb noise and pollution and clean the air we breathe. A healthy tree can last years, even centuries and beyond. California has some of the oldest living trees; like the Giant Sequoia Redwoods which are around a few thousand years old and the Bristlecone Pine which grows in the mountains of Southern California and can live up to five thousand years! Proper care can ensure that your trees have optimal health and are enjoyed for generations to come. 

Trees are susceptible to many forms of stress including; wind, rain, disease and pest damage. These stresses can be minimized by implementing a routine maintenance program for trees. A proper tree care program will allow fluid growth patterns and wind penetration. This will condition your trees for long term healthy development.

Proper pruning is key to a good tree care program. It can also aid in keeping a view from being obstructed or maintaining healthy coverage from an unsightly view. The best time to prune trees depends on the variety but often it is in the dormant season, usually fall and winter. Pruning during the dormant period minimizes sap loss and subsequent stress to the tree. It also minimizes the risk of fungus infection or insect infestation as both fungi and insects are likely to be in dormancy at the same time as the tree. At Pacific Vista Landscape, all of our pruning practices are based upon the International Society of Arboriculture industry standards and our trained professionals prune trees in accordance with American National Standards Institute (ANSI) A300 Standards. This ensures that you get the finest quality tree care available.

We offer a tree care plan that can meet the needs of every tree on your property by taking into account species, age, and purpose. Our staff will provide you with a complete inventory of all trees and organize these trees on a multiple year tree care plan. We will place the trees on an appropriate frequency to best suit a given species. Call us today for a free quote and see what we can do for your trees!

Friday, October 4, 2013

Composting is Easy!

http://www.inventistmedia.com/
Compost photo by Inventist Media
by Pacific Vista Landscape Services

In nature, once living material drops to the ground, decays, and eventually decomposes creating compost. This material is essential because it adds nutrients to the soil helping living plants thrive. It is easy to create your own compost and make your garden thrive as well!

The first essential ingredient for creating compost is air. The bacteria and fungus microbes that are in your compost pile need oxygen to live. If your pile is too dense or becomes too wet, the air supply to the inside is cut off and the beneficial organisms will die. Decomposition will slow and an offensive odor may arise. To avoid this, turn and fluff the pile with a pitchfork often, perhaps weekly. You can also turn the pile by just re-piling it into a new pile.


Next is water. One of the most common mistakes in composting is letting the pile get too dry. Your compost pile should be moist as a wrung-out sponge. A moisture content of 40 to 60 percent is preferable. To test for adequate moisture, reach into your compost pile and grab a handful of material and squeeze it; if a few drops of water come out, it's probably got enough moisture, if it doesn't, add water. When you water, it is best to put a hose into the pile so that you aren't just wetting the top. You can also water as you are turning the pile. During dry weather, you may have to add water regularly. During wet weather, you may need to cover your pile. A properly constructed compost pile will drain excess water and not become soggy.


Third essential ingredient is carbon. Microbes need carbon for energy to be able to break down the organic material. Brown yard and garden material such as dry leaves, twigs, hay, or shredded paper can provide the carbon balance for a compost pile. Chop or shred large pieces to 12 inches or shorter (thick, woody branches should be chipped, ground up, or left out). 


Lastly, composting needs nitrogen. Nitrogen is the protein required to fuel the bodies of the microbes so they can do their job. Green materials such as grass clipping and landscape trimmings are ideal sources of nitrogen for composting. Vegetable and fruit trimmings and peels can also provide nitrogen for composting. Coffee grounds and tea bags may look brown, but are actually potent nitrogen sources. To reduce the potential for pests or odors, avoid meat or dairy scraps and always bury food scraps deep within the compost pile. Avoid pet feces due to concerns about pathogens. However, manure from chickens, turkeys, cows or horses is rich in nitrogen, and can help your compost pile get to proper temperatures, and make very good compost.

You can compost in a contained bin or, if it's ok with your city, have an outside pile right on the ground. Ideally, the compost pile should be at least three feet wide by three feet deep by three feet tall (one cubic yard). This size provides enough food and insulation for the organisms to live. However, piles can be larger or smaller and work just fine if managed well.  

The easiest compost recipe calls for blending roughly one part of green or wet material (which is high in nitrogen) and two parts brown or dry material (which is high in carbon). Having the right ratio of carbon to nitrogen is important. "Piles with too much nitrogen tend to smell, because the excess nitrogen converts into an ammonia gas. Carbon-rich piles break down slowly because there's not enough nitrogen for the microbe population to expand. An ideal compost pile should have a 30:1 C/N ratio. Grass clippings alone have about a 20:1 C/N ratio. Adding one part grass clippings, or other green, to two parts dead leaves, or other brown, will give you the right mix." (source: http://www.organicgardening.com/learn-and-grow/composting-101) Simply layer or mix these materials in a pile or enclosure; chop or shred large pieces to 12" or shorter. Water and fluff the compost to add air. Then leave it to the microorganisms, which will break down the material over time.

Compost piles that have the right blend of nitrogen and carbon and are kept moist and fluffed regularly, will heat up to temperatures of 120 to 140 degrees Fahrenheit. The high temperature will kill most weed seeds and speed up the decomposition process so that the compost may be ready in 2 to 3 months or less. Casual compost piles are also quite workable since compost will happen even if you just pile on yard and food waste, water sporadically, and wait. Since these piles don't get too hot, often worms will migrate into these and they will help breakdown material as well. Casual composting can take several months.

Composting is finished when the original material has been transformed into a uniform, dark brown, crumbly product with a pleasant, earthy aroma. There may be a few chunks of woody material left; these can be screened out and put back into a new pile. Besides making incredible, nutrient rich soil for your garden, using left over food scraps in your compost cuts down food waste that would otherwise end up in land fills! Composting is a win-win! 

Friday, September 6, 2013

Landscaping 101: Glossary of Terms

Here are some commonly used terms in landscaping:
by Pacific Vista Landscape Services

Accent:
The use of a plant or object to draw attention to a space.

Acidic soil: 
Soil with a pH value of less than 7.0.

Aeration:
A method of increasing water and oxygen into compact soil by turning and loosening the soil to allow penetration.

Alkaline soil: 
Soil with a pH value of more than 7.0.

Annual:
A plant that completes its life cycle in one year or season.

Apex: 
The tip of a stem.

Arbor: 
A shady garden shelter or bower, often made of rustic wood or latticework on which vines, roses, etc. are grown.

Arboretum:
A landscaped space where trees, shrubs, and herbaceous plants are cultivated for scientific study, educational purposes, and to foster appreciation of plants.

Axil:
The area between a leaf and the stem from which the leaf arises.

Bacillus Thuringiensis(BT):
Biological Control

Beneficial Biological Controls:
Insects and organic chemicals

Biennial:
A plant that typically takes two years to complete it's life cycle.


Budding:
A form of asexual reproduction in which a new organism develops from an outgrowth or bud on another one.

Bulb:
An underground plant structure that contains nutrients, energy and seed to produce a plant.

Cambrium Layer:
The thin layer of growing cells between the xylem and phloem.

Chlorosis:
Iron deficiency

Clay:
A soil particle which is plate-like, extremely small and may retain nutrients well.

Clod:
A lump of clay which is difficult to break apart.

Cold Hardy:
Capable of withstanding cold weather conditions.

Compost:
A soil product created from decomposed garden material, used in flower beds to add nutrients and encourage good growth.

Cultivar:
A cultivated variety of a plant selected for some feature that distinguishes it from 
the species from which it was selected.

Cultivation:
Turning the soil to provide better air circulation or to control weeds.

Dead Heading:
Removing dead flowers before they set seed.

Deciduous:
Having leaves that fall off or are shed 
seasonally to avoid adverse weather conditions such as cold or drought.

Defoliation:
The process when a plant looses all its leaves.

Dethatching:
Removing thatches in grass; removal of the dead grass.


Die Back:
Tips of branches decline due to lack of moisture or disease.

Dormancey:
When a plant reaches a dormant period, usually in winter.

Drainage:
The downward movement of water passing through soil.


Drip Line:
Outmost branch tips where the water would land to feed the tree.

Drought Tolerant:
The ability of a plant to thrive without much water.


Epiphyte:
A plant that lives on a host plant but draws nutrients from the air.

Espalier:
A flat or fan like like trellis.

Established Plant:
When the plant is fully rooted.

Evergreen:
A plant whose leaves or needles are green year-round.

Fertilizer:
A material added to feed plants rich in nutrients, usually nitrogen (often lost with frequent mowing), phosphates and potash.

Fescue:
Soft compact fine-leafed grasses.


Flower Form:
Structure of a flower, i.e. single, semi, double.

Foundation Plant: plant that is used to frame around a house or structure and connect it to the rest of the landscape.

Frond:
A large leaf with multiple divisions.

Fungicide:
The chemical used to control a fungus-related disease.

Germination:
The sprouting of a seed, spore or pollen grain.


Genus:
A subdivion of a family or subfamily in the classification of organisms.

Girdling:
Also called ring-barking, is the removal of bark around the circumference of the tree in a ring. The result is a slow death to the part of the tree or woody plant above the damage.

Grading:
The process of changing the slope level of an area of soil.


Grafting:
Combining the vascular tissues of two plants to form a hybrid by placing a portion of one plant (called a bud or scion) into or on a stem, root, or branch of another (called the stock) in such a way that a union forms and the partners continue to grow.

Ground Cover:
Plants which are low-growing and create a blanket appearance over an area.


Growing Season:
The period each year when the plant grows.

Hardscape:

Walkways, planters, and areas made of hard material like concrete or rocks that is incorporated into the landscape and balances with the 'softscape'.

Hardy:
Plants that can survive difficult conditions like frost and severe cold.

Hedge:
A variety of shrubs that when planted close together will give a wall-like appearance; often used to separate areas.


Herbaceous:
Having little or no woody tissue. Most plants grown as perennials or annuals are herbaceous.

Herbicide:
A chemical used to control weeds.


Horticulture:
The science of growing plants, flowers, trees, shrubs, fruit, & grasses.

Hybrid:
A plant or group of plants that results from the interbreeding of two distinct cultivars, 
varieties, species, or genera.

Indigenous:
Occurring naturally in a particular place. Native.

Iron:
A mineral used in keeping grass green.

Irrigation: 

Applying water to vegetation and landscape to help it thrive.

Leader:
The primary shoot of a plant.

Leaf Burn:
A plant disease that causes a burnt appearance.

Leaf Mold:
A fungal disease of plants in which mold develops on the leaves.

Lime:
Calcium material used to raise the pH in soil.

Macronutrients:
Essential elements needed in large amounts for healthy plant growth: nitrogen, phosphorus, calcium, magnesium, and sulfur.


Micro Climate:
The climate of a small area that is different than the climate of the surrounding area.

Micronutrients:
Essential elements needed in very small amounts for healthy plant growth: iron, copper, zinc, boron, molybdenum, chlorine, and cobalt.

Mulch:
A material used to cover soil for moisture conservation and weed suppression.

Native Plant:
A plant that lives or grows naturally in a particular region without direct or indirect 
human intervention. Indigenous.

Node:
The part of a plant stem from which one or more leaves emerge.

Organic Fertilizer:
Compounds derived from decomposition of plant and animal products and include blood meal, bone meal, manure, and sewage sludge.


Organic Matter:
Biological material in the process of decaying or decomposing.

Osmosis:
When water travels across a membrane.


Peatmoss:
A bog like moss processed to be used in potting soils and helps assimilate nutrients for the plant.

Perennial:
Persisting for several years, usually dying back to a perennial crown during the winter and initiating new growth each spring.

Pesticide:
A chemical used to control an organism.

pH:
The acidity and alkalinity of soil.


Phloem: 
One of the two types of transport tissue in vascular plants, xylem is the other.

Photosynthesis:
The process in which plants convert sunlight energy into chemical energy that can be used as fuel to aid in plant development.

Planter:
The defined area, commonly raised and composed of wood or concrete, used to grow plants.


Plant Family:
A plant that belongs to a family that shares the same broad characterisitcs.

Polladring:
A pruning meathod in which a a tree's top branches are cut back to the trunk so that it may produce a dense growth of new shoots.

Pollen:
A fine powdery substance consisting of microscopic grains discharged from the male part of a flower or from a male cone.

Pollenation:
The process in which pollen is transferred.

Pollenator Bees:
Bees that transfer pollen.

Pollenizer:
A plant that supplies pollen.

Pruning:
A method of cutting parts of a plant off to control size, health and appearance.

Pseudo Bulb:
A storage organ derived from the part of a stem between two leaf nodes.

Re-foliate:
Term used for when a plant grows new leaves after a leafless period, usually in the spring.


Rhizome:
A horizontal, usually underground stem that often sends out roots and shoots from its nodes.

Root Bound:
A plant that has grown too large for its container resulting in matting or tangling of the roots.

Rootstock:
The part of a budded or grafted plant that furnishes the root system. Also called 'understock'.

Rosette:
A circular arrangement of leaves or petals.

Scion:
A detached shoot or twig used in grafting.

Shrub:
A low-growing woody plant, usually under 15 feet that often has multiple stems.

Shock:
A term used to describe a plant that has been impacted by change, i.e. transplanting, weather, too much or too little water, frost, etc.


Sod:
Small areas of turf ready for transplant to new locations. Often used to start a new lawn.

Softscape:

Vegetation used in landscaping which balances with 'hardscape'. Includes trees, flowers, grasses, shrubs. 

Species:
Plant organisms with similar traits capable of off-spring.

Specimen:
An individual plant used to represent a class or genus or plants.

Sphagnum:
A genus of 120 species of mosses, commonly called peat moss, that survives well in wet, acidic soil.

Spore: 
Typically a one-celled, reproductive unit capable of giving rise to a new individual plant.

Spur:
A projecting root or branch.

Standard:
A tree or shrub that grows to full height.

Stolon:
A stem, at or just below the surface of the ground, that produces new plants from buds at it's tips or nodes.

Stress:
The negative impact of non-living forces on a plant.

Sucker:
A secondary shoot produced from the base or roots of a woody plant that gives rise to a new plant.

Tap Root:
An enlarged root, that grows downward and forms a center which other roots sprout laterally.

Tender:
A delicate plant that is usually sensitive to frost or severe cold.

Temperature Tolerance:
Cold or heat, the degree at which a plant can handle temperatures and survive.

Thatch:
The live or dead layer of roots and stems between the turf of a lawn and the soil.


Thinning:
Pruning or removing some branches in a uniform way throughout a tree or shrub.

Topiary:
A decorative style of plant growth controlled by shaping with pruning or shearing.

Transplant:
Moving a plant from one location to another.

Tree:
A woody perennial plant having a single, usually elongated main stem or trunk with 
few or no branches on its lower part.

Tuber:
A thickened, underground stem or rhizome which stores nutrients.

Turf:
A ground cover of grass.

Variegation:
A pattern of leaves that contains either white or yellow markings.


Variety:
A sub-species of plant.

Vegetation:
A general term for all plant life.

Water Sprout:
A nonflowering shoot arising from a branch or axil of a tree or shrub.

Wildflower:
A herbaceous plant that is native to a given area and is representative of unselected 

forms of its species.

Woody Plant:
A plant with persistent woody parts that do not die back in adverse conditions. Most 
woody plants are trees or shrubs.

Xylem: One of the two types of transport tissue in vascular plants, phloem is the other.


Friday, August 9, 2013

Tree Trimming: Palm Trees and Removing Dead Fronds Safely

by Pacific Vista Landscape Services

Photo by Inventist Media
Everywhere we look in Southern California we see palm trees. They're one of our most loved attributes and yet, despite their ubiquity, the only one that is native to our state is the Washingtonia filifera, or more commonly known as the California or Desert Palm Fan. Indigenous or not, tree trimming these palms and removing their dead fronds can be challenging and there are some important considerations in order to keep them looking like the iconic symbol they have become for California.

Palms are not like other trees because they lack secondary growth. This makes trimming them correctly extremely important to avoid structural weakening which cannot be reversed. Since most palms have a singular trunk, any structural weakening of the trunk can make it dangerous to climb and since regular tree trimming standards are not specific to palms, evaluating each palm individually before trimming is a must:
  • Inspect the trunk for any cavities, wounds, bleeding, or 'penciling' which is seen when a trunk narrows and then widens again. These all show lack of structural integrity and the possibility of structural failure.
  • Inspect the roots and soil for decay, disease, or over-exposure.
  • Inspect the trunk for cracks or fissures.
  • Any significant lean to the trunk which makes it unsafe to climb.
  • Evaluate that the crown, where the fronds come out of, is not excessively big for the trunk creating extra top-heavy weight to the trunk which could cause it to fail during trimming.
If a palm is considered unsafe to climb, a lift must be used instead unless there are other structurally sound trees or buildings next to the palm that can be used to access the dead fronds. Trimming dead palm fronds is hard work and can be very dangerous. If there is more than three years of dead growth, it is even more challenging because it must be accessed from the outside of the fronds instead of underneath since a heavy frond skirt can easily come loose and fall straight down taking the climber with it.

Not only does a clean palm tree look much better, dead fronds make a lovely home for snakes and rodents and should be removed every year. It is important that only professional trained tree trimmers are hired. For instance, if spikes are used to climb, it can make holes in the trunk that do not seal over which can lead to wounds, decay, and disease. Keeping the palm structurally healthy is key to years of beauty.

At Pacific Vista Landscape Services, we have professionals who know how safely prune palm trees and ensure they stay healthy for years to come! Call us today for a quote!


Friday, July 12, 2013

Property Management: Smart Landscaping

http://www.propertymanagementinsider.com/six-property-management-tips-for-creating-a-long-term-landscape-plan.html
Image by Camden Addison
Being smart and thinking long-term when choosing landscaping for a multi-residential property is key for lasting beauty. Landscaping large properties usually incorporates a combination of hard-scape and soft-scapes that look good initially but should also mature well with the site and not lead to expensive replacement issues down the line.

Property Manager Insider's 'Six Property Management Tips for Creating a Long-Term Landscaping Plan' has some great pointers for making smart choices."Those small trees that uniformly frame the clubhouse or the lush grass under a newly planted young Live Oak may look great now, but changes in available light, water supply, and nutrients over the course of several growing seasons could drastically alter the appearance and force you to replace them at additional cost and headache. 

That’s why apartment property owners should consider a long-term landscape plan that will not only minimize expenses but ensure that the community always looks its best several years down the road:

1. Envision the Property’s Horizon

Look at your horizon on the property and set a goal. Is the goal to create as much shade and greenery for the property as possible, or is it maintaining a clean-cut, colorful landscape that needs plenty of sun?


2. Consider Landscape Maturity

Plants will grow to maturity under normal growing conditions. When planning a landscape, property owners should envision what the property will look like as plant life matures and be prepared to make changes as necessary.

Avoid focusing on what a plant or tree looks like when it’s young: installing a young bush or tree that will be much larger at maturity in a small area could lead to larger issues as it grows. Even if trimmed and not allowed to reach its full growth potential, the plant can break down and be susceptible to disease because of the smaller space.


3. Manage Impact of Sun and Shade

Plants and trees compete for water, sunlight, and nutrients and sometimes only the strongest survive. A blooming plant that appears to grow in harmony next to a young tree will struggle as the tree matures and its canopy spreads to 50 feet across, creating more shade than sunlight. Property owners should incorporate into their master plan what the next step will be if a big tree dies or what will happen to blooming material as the tree gets older.


4. Prepare for Changing Conditions

Weather and changing conditions are big factors to consider when developing a long-term plan. Extreme conditions may tempt property owners to abandon the plan and move in a new direction. But conditions that are here today won’t necessarily be around for long. For example, during the recent drought in the southern U.S., water supplies were depleted for several months, damaging many landscapes that were designed with plant life that requires ample water.


5. Commit to Tree Trimming and Maintenance

Whatever the landscape components, maintenance is fundamental in order to stick to the plan. Skipping routine tree trimming, for example, will extend the tree’s canopy and affect the growth of other nearby plant life. Grass and other shrubs may die and require replanting at an additional expense.

6. Look into the Future

Nobody can predict the future, but it’s fairly certain that world water supply will continue to be an issue as the population grows so managing what is becoming a finite water supply is important. You also need to keep in mind that areas will experience once-in-a-century floods and drought, along with colder and warmer than normal temperatures. Plant life will be affected. A long-term plan should consider this important factor and include introducing material best suited for what lies ahead.
"

Whether we are working on a new, complex installation, renovation, or a simple site improvement, our professional crews at Pacific Vista Landscape Services have years of experience using the industry established "best practices" to install both hard-scape and soft-scapes. Pacific Vista delivers the best in workmanship and finest of materials to ensure landscapes retain a lasting beauty. Our team of seasoned pros pay attention to every detail to make certain your vision comes to life!