Showing posts with label property. Show all posts
Showing posts with label property. Show all posts

Monday, September 21, 2015

California's Water Conservation Program Appears to be Working!

by Pacific Vista Landscape Services

When state officials of California determined 
that 2013 was one of the driest years in the history of the state, the news that California was in a drought became evident. However, it was not until January of this year, that California’s Governor Jerry Brown declared a drought emergency for the state. In April, the governor put mandatory water use restrictions in place, the first of their kind, on all residents, farms and businesses. Then, Governor Brown signed an executive order mandating a 25 percent reduction of water use in California. So how is California doing? The numbers are in, and it appears that California's Water Conservation Program is working!

In June, the statewide use of water met the requirements by dropping water use by 27%. In July, the reduction of water use was even better, reaching a 31% reduction.

The water savings may have been helped by a higher than average summer rainfall. The rainfall in Los Angeles broke a record in July; a record established in 1886. The target for Los Angeles water conservation rate was 16%, but L.A. was able to meet and exceed that goal by reducing water use by 21%.

July water savings exceeded the June records by reducing use by over 31%, even in higher temperatures in the state this summer. Again, record rainfall contributed to the savings, but Californians are definitely doing their part to conserve.

Overall, most water agencies in California have met or nearly met their water conservation goals. According to the State Water Resources Control Board, this accounts for more than 70% of these agencies with only four missing their conservation targets by 15% or more.

The State Water Resources Control Board states, that at the present time, none of the water districts that are presently out of compliance have been fined yet; however, there are nine agencies that will receive a “conservation order” instructing them to take actions, including audits, to encourage users to comply with their water use standards. However, the state board has put pressure on agencies to increase enforcement. Water rates have been raised to reduce use, and recently, financial penalties are starting to be issued.

The best way for a property owner to reduce water use is two-fold. It is important to switch out grass and other water-needy plants for drought tolerant landscape which include all native plants and trees as well as many Mediterranean varieties. The other important element for saving water and money is a Smart Irrigation System that monitors the soil and only waters when needed. Combining the latest irrigation technology and drought tolerant landscape makes for a gorgeous and efficient garden!

Sources:

http://www.nbclosangeles.com/news/local/California-Drought-Water-Conservation-Report-320013141.html

http://www.sgvtribune.com/environment-and-nature/20150730/californians-cut-water-use-by-27-percent-in-june-exceeding-governors-mandate

http://www.desertsun.com/story/news/environment/2015/08/27/california-drought-cities-cut-water-use-july/71277538/

http://www.cbsnews.com/news/california-cuts-water-use-amid-drought/

Friday, August 28, 2015

The Benefits of Aloe Vera!

by Pacific Vista Landscape Services

Its health benefits are advertised widely and there is good reason. The aloe vera plant has a lot to offer!

The gel from aloe vera can help heal wounds or moisten dry areas. The plant's gel acts like a natural antiseptic by disinfecting the cut or burn and helping it heal. The gel is also a moisturizer for dry lips, elbows, knees, toes, feet, etc. It is often referred to as the "natural healer" or the "miracle plant." Many companies sell products with aloe vera in it but why not have your own supply on hand. Just cut a piece off and squeeze out the gel! 

People are drinking the juice, called aloe water, to gain its benefits internally. Rich in antioxidants and a natural anti-inflammatory, aloe water is thought to aid digestion, strengthen the immune system, help blood circulation, lower cholesterol, among many other health benefits!

Aloe vera is easy to grow! In the beginning, people found this miracle plant in the regions of north-eastern and southern areas of Africa and Madagascar and used it in their daily lives. Now there are over 250 species around the world and its helpful properties are used in many cultures.

Aloe vera is considered semi-tropical and thrives in warm, dry climates. It can grow from the
size of a golf ball to 5 feet across! It is not fast growing and it is easy to take care of. If your plant grows new baby aloes, those can be taken out and grown to another adult plant which is called propagation. It is part of the succulent family and is drought tolerant so it is perfect to grow outdoors in Southern California!

It can also grow indoors in a sunny place. If your aloe vera plant is in a pot, make sure it has plenty of room to grow deep roots. Your pot should also have holes on the bottom to drain extra water as succulents' roots will rot in too much water.


Aloe vera is a very useful plant. From it's health benefits, to being easy to take care of and perfect for Southern California, it's hard to beat!

Thursday, December 5, 2013

A Greener Landscape: Re-Landscape with Lawn Rebates in Southern California

Drought tolerant landscaping photo by Inventist Media
by Pacific Vista Landscape Services

If you live in Southern California and have a lawn that requires lots of water to maintain, you might want to consider trading it in for drought tolerant landscaping. Rebates for re-landscaping can help cover the initial cost as well as save water and money for years to come.

There are 26 agencies in Southern California that get their water from the Metropolitan Water District and participate in the lawn rebate program called So-Cal Water Smart. Depending on your provider, qualifications and rebates will vary but some have recently increased their rebates to increase the incentive for property owners to exchange their grass for cash.

For example, The Department of Water & Power, DWP, recently increased the rebate amount for it's Landscape Incentive Program from $1.50 per square foot to $2.00 per square foot. Homeowners can claim up to 2000 square feet and get up to $4000.00 cash back! Multi family and commercial buildings can also receive rebates with a tiered program that also gives up to $2.00 per square foot. This is considered a limited time offer by DWP so now is the time to take action!

Qualifying is the first step in obtaining a rebate. Prior to re-landscaping, an application must be filled out and pre-approval is needed. For DWP customers, the application is available at DWP's website and property owners are required to submit photos and a description of planned landscaping. An inspection will be done prior to removal of a lawn and after completion of re-landscaping before a rebate will be issued. 

Drought tolerant landscaping photo by Inventist Media
Re-landscaping options require use of plants that are considered 'California Friendly'. A list of native and drought tolerant options which includes around 1500 trees, shrubs, succulents, vines, perennials and ground cover can be found at the Metropolitan Water District's site Bewaterwise.com. Along with lots of beautiful plant options, using non-vegetative materials like pebbles and decomposed granite to create interesting visual additions can enhance your your new landscape. Segmented areas, planters, and pathways can add landscaping appeal while further lowering watering needs.

At Pacific Vista Landscape Services, we can help in planning your re-landscaping project. We are experts when it comes to native plants and drought tolerant options as well as non-vegetative landscaping additions. We also provide the latest smart technology in irrigation systems that can save you even more money in rebates. Give us a call and see what we can do for your property!

Wednesday, November 6, 2013

Tree Care: TLC For Your Tree!

Eucalyptus Tree photo by Inventist Media
by Pacific Vista Landscape Services

One of the most important services we provide at Pacific Vista Landscape is tree care. Trees bring beauty to a property and increased value. They also absorb noise and pollution and clean the air we breathe. A healthy tree can last years, even centuries and beyond. California has some of the oldest living trees; like the Giant Sequoia Redwoods which are around a few thousand years old and the Bristlecone Pine which grows in the mountains of Southern California and can live up to five thousand years! Proper care can ensure that your trees have optimal health and are enjoyed for generations to come. 

Trees are susceptible to many forms of stress including; wind, rain, disease and pest damage. These stresses can be minimized by implementing a routine maintenance program for trees. A proper tree care program will allow fluid growth patterns and wind penetration. This will condition your trees for long term healthy development.

Proper pruning is key to a good tree care program. It can also aid in keeping a view from being obstructed or maintaining healthy coverage from an unsightly view. The best time to prune trees depends on the variety but often it is in the dormant season, usually fall and winter. Pruning during the dormant period minimizes sap loss and subsequent stress to the tree. It also minimizes the risk of fungus infection or insect infestation as both fungi and insects are likely to be in dormancy at the same time as the tree. At Pacific Vista Landscape, all of our pruning practices are based upon the International Society of Arboriculture industry standards and our trained professionals prune trees in accordance with American National Standards Institute (ANSI) A300 Standards. This ensures that you get the finest quality tree care available.

We offer a tree care plan that can meet the needs of every tree on your property by taking into account species, age, and purpose. Our staff will provide you with a complete inventory of all trees and organize these trees on a multiple year tree care plan. We will place the trees on an appropriate frequency to best suit a given species. Call us today for a free quote and see what we can do for your trees!

Friday, September 6, 2013

Landscaping 101: Glossary of Terms

Here are some commonly used terms in landscaping:
by Pacific Vista Landscape Services

Accent:
The use of a plant or object to draw attention to a space.

Acidic soil: 
Soil with a pH value of less than 7.0.

Aeration:
A method of increasing water and oxygen into compact soil by turning and loosening the soil to allow penetration.

Alkaline soil: 
Soil with a pH value of more than 7.0.

Annual:
A plant that completes its life cycle in one year or season.

Apex: 
The tip of a stem.

Arbor: 
A shady garden shelter or bower, often made of rustic wood or latticework on which vines, roses, etc. are grown.

Arboretum:
A landscaped space where trees, shrubs, and herbaceous plants are cultivated for scientific study, educational purposes, and to foster appreciation of plants.

Axil:
The area between a leaf and the stem from which the leaf arises.

Bacillus Thuringiensis(BT):
Biological Control

Beneficial Biological Controls:
Insects and organic chemicals

Biennial:
A plant that typically takes two years to complete it's life cycle.


Budding:
A form of asexual reproduction in which a new organism develops from an outgrowth or bud on another one.

Bulb:
An underground plant structure that contains nutrients, energy and seed to produce a plant.

Cambrium Layer:
The thin layer of growing cells between the xylem and phloem.

Chlorosis:
Iron deficiency

Clay:
A soil particle which is plate-like, extremely small and may retain nutrients well.

Clod:
A lump of clay which is difficult to break apart.

Cold Hardy:
Capable of withstanding cold weather conditions.

Compost:
A soil product created from decomposed garden material, used in flower beds to add nutrients and encourage good growth.

Cultivar:
A cultivated variety of a plant selected for some feature that distinguishes it from 
the species from which it was selected.

Cultivation:
Turning the soil to provide better air circulation or to control weeds.

Dead Heading:
Removing dead flowers before they set seed.

Deciduous:
Having leaves that fall off or are shed 
seasonally to avoid adverse weather conditions such as cold or drought.

Defoliation:
The process when a plant looses all its leaves.

Dethatching:
Removing thatches in grass; removal of the dead grass.


Die Back:
Tips of branches decline due to lack of moisture or disease.

Dormancey:
When a plant reaches a dormant period, usually in winter.

Drainage:
The downward movement of water passing through soil.


Drip Line:
Outmost branch tips where the water would land to feed the tree.

Drought Tolerant:
The ability of a plant to thrive without much water.


Epiphyte:
A plant that lives on a host plant but draws nutrients from the air.

Espalier:
A flat or fan like like trellis.

Established Plant:
When the plant is fully rooted.

Evergreen:
A plant whose leaves or needles are green year-round.

Fertilizer:
A material added to feed plants rich in nutrients, usually nitrogen (often lost with frequent mowing), phosphates and potash.

Fescue:
Soft compact fine-leafed grasses.


Flower Form:
Structure of a flower, i.e. single, semi, double.

Foundation Plant: plant that is used to frame around a house or structure and connect it to the rest of the landscape.

Frond:
A large leaf with multiple divisions.

Fungicide:
The chemical used to control a fungus-related disease.

Germination:
The sprouting of a seed, spore or pollen grain.


Genus:
A subdivion of a family or subfamily in the classification of organisms.

Girdling:
Also called ring-barking, is the removal of bark around the circumference of the tree in a ring. The result is a slow death to the part of the tree or woody plant above the damage.

Grading:
The process of changing the slope level of an area of soil.


Grafting:
Combining the vascular tissues of two plants to form a hybrid by placing a portion of one plant (called a bud or scion) into or on a stem, root, or branch of another (called the stock) in such a way that a union forms and the partners continue to grow.

Ground Cover:
Plants which are low-growing and create a blanket appearance over an area.


Growing Season:
The period each year when the plant grows.

Hardscape:

Walkways, planters, and areas made of hard material like concrete or rocks that is incorporated into the landscape and balances with the 'softscape'.

Hardy:
Plants that can survive difficult conditions like frost and severe cold.

Hedge:
A variety of shrubs that when planted close together will give a wall-like appearance; often used to separate areas.


Herbaceous:
Having little or no woody tissue. Most plants grown as perennials or annuals are herbaceous.

Herbicide:
A chemical used to control weeds.


Horticulture:
The science of growing plants, flowers, trees, shrubs, fruit, & grasses.

Hybrid:
A plant or group of plants that results from the interbreeding of two distinct cultivars, 
varieties, species, or genera.

Indigenous:
Occurring naturally in a particular place. Native.

Iron:
A mineral used in keeping grass green.

Irrigation: 

Applying water to vegetation and landscape to help it thrive.

Leader:
The primary shoot of a plant.

Leaf Burn:
A plant disease that causes a burnt appearance.

Leaf Mold:
A fungal disease of plants in which mold develops on the leaves.

Lime:
Calcium material used to raise the pH in soil.

Macronutrients:
Essential elements needed in large amounts for healthy plant growth: nitrogen, phosphorus, calcium, magnesium, and sulfur.


Micro Climate:
The climate of a small area that is different than the climate of the surrounding area.

Micronutrients:
Essential elements needed in very small amounts for healthy plant growth: iron, copper, zinc, boron, molybdenum, chlorine, and cobalt.

Mulch:
A material used to cover soil for moisture conservation and weed suppression.

Native Plant:
A plant that lives or grows naturally in a particular region without direct or indirect 
human intervention. Indigenous.

Node:
The part of a plant stem from which one or more leaves emerge.

Organic Fertilizer:
Compounds derived from decomposition of plant and animal products and include blood meal, bone meal, manure, and sewage sludge.


Organic Matter:
Biological material in the process of decaying or decomposing.

Osmosis:
When water travels across a membrane.


Peatmoss:
A bog like moss processed to be used in potting soils and helps assimilate nutrients for the plant.

Perennial:
Persisting for several years, usually dying back to a perennial crown during the winter and initiating new growth each spring.

Pesticide:
A chemical used to control an organism.

pH:
The acidity and alkalinity of soil.


Phloem: 
One of the two types of transport tissue in vascular plants, xylem is the other.

Photosynthesis:
The process in which plants convert sunlight energy into chemical energy that can be used as fuel to aid in plant development.

Planter:
The defined area, commonly raised and composed of wood or concrete, used to grow plants.


Plant Family:
A plant that belongs to a family that shares the same broad characterisitcs.

Polladring:
A pruning meathod in which a a tree's top branches are cut back to the trunk so that it may produce a dense growth of new shoots.

Pollen:
A fine powdery substance consisting of microscopic grains discharged from the male part of a flower or from a male cone.

Pollenation:
The process in which pollen is transferred.

Pollenator Bees:
Bees that transfer pollen.

Pollenizer:
A plant that supplies pollen.

Pruning:
A method of cutting parts of a plant off to control size, health and appearance.

Pseudo Bulb:
A storage organ derived from the part of a stem between two leaf nodes.

Re-foliate:
Term used for when a plant grows new leaves after a leafless period, usually in the spring.


Rhizome:
A horizontal, usually underground stem that often sends out roots and shoots from its nodes.

Root Bound:
A plant that has grown too large for its container resulting in matting or tangling of the roots.

Rootstock:
The part of a budded or grafted plant that furnishes the root system. Also called 'understock'.

Rosette:
A circular arrangement of leaves or petals.

Scion:
A detached shoot or twig used in grafting.

Shrub:
A low-growing woody plant, usually under 15 feet that often has multiple stems.

Shock:
A term used to describe a plant that has been impacted by change, i.e. transplanting, weather, too much or too little water, frost, etc.


Sod:
Small areas of turf ready for transplant to new locations. Often used to start a new lawn.

Softscape:

Vegetation used in landscaping which balances with 'hardscape'. Includes trees, flowers, grasses, shrubs. 

Species:
Plant organisms with similar traits capable of off-spring.

Specimen:
An individual plant used to represent a class or genus or plants.

Sphagnum:
A genus of 120 species of mosses, commonly called peat moss, that survives well in wet, acidic soil.

Spore: 
Typically a one-celled, reproductive unit capable of giving rise to a new individual plant.

Spur:
A projecting root or branch.

Standard:
A tree or shrub that grows to full height.

Stolon:
A stem, at or just below the surface of the ground, that produces new plants from buds at it's tips or nodes.

Stress:
The negative impact of non-living forces on a plant.

Sucker:
A secondary shoot produced from the base or roots of a woody plant that gives rise to a new plant.

Tap Root:
An enlarged root, that grows downward and forms a center which other roots sprout laterally.

Tender:
A delicate plant that is usually sensitive to frost or severe cold.

Temperature Tolerance:
Cold or heat, the degree at which a plant can handle temperatures and survive.

Thatch:
The live or dead layer of roots and stems between the turf of a lawn and the soil.


Thinning:
Pruning or removing some branches in a uniform way throughout a tree or shrub.

Topiary:
A decorative style of plant growth controlled by shaping with pruning or shearing.

Transplant:
Moving a plant from one location to another.

Tree:
A woody perennial plant having a single, usually elongated main stem or trunk with 
few or no branches on its lower part.

Tuber:
A thickened, underground stem or rhizome which stores nutrients.

Turf:
A ground cover of grass.

Variegation:
A pattern of leaves that contains either white or yellow markings.


Variety:
A sub-species of plant.

Vegetation:
A general term for all plant life.

Water Sprout:
A nonflowering shoot arising from a branch or axil of a tree or shrub.

Wildflower:
A herbaceous plant that is native to a given area and is representative of unselected 

forms of its species.

Woody Plant:
A plant with persistent woody parts that do not die back in adverse conditions. Most 
woody plants are trees or shrubs.

Xylem: One of the two types of transport tissue in vascular plants, phloem is the other.


Friday, July 12, 2013

Property Management: Smart Landscaping

http://www.propertymanagementinsider.com/six-property-management-tips-for-creating-a-long-term-landscape-plan.html
Image by Camden Addison
Being smart and thinking long-term when choosing landscaping for a multi-residential property is key for lasting beauty. Landscaping large properties usually incorporates a combination of hard-scape and soft-scapes that look good initially but should also mature well with the site and not lead to expensive replacement issues down the line.

Property Manager Insider's 'Six Property Management Tips for Creating a Long-Term Landscaping Plan' has some great pointers for making smart choices."Those small trees that uniformly frame the clubhouse or the lush grass under a newly planted young Live Oak may look great now, but changes in available light, water supply, and nutrients over the course of several growing seasons could drastically alter the appearance and force you to replace them at additional cost and headache. 

That’s why apartment property owners should consider a long-term landscape plan that will not only minimize expenses but ensure that the community always looks its best several years down the road:

1. Envision the Property’s Horizon

Look at your horizon on the property and set a goal. Is the goal to create as much shade and greenery for the property as possible, or is it maintaining a clean-cut, colorful landscape that needs plenty of sun?


2. Consider Landscape Maturity

Plants will grow to maturity under normal growing conditions. When planning a landscape, property owners should envision what the property will look like as plant life matures and be prepared to make changes as necessary.

Avoid focusing on what a plant or tree looks like when it’s young: installing a young bush or tree that will be much larger at maturity in a small area could lead to larger issues as it grows. Even if trimmed and not allowed to reach its full growth potential, the plant can break down and be susceptible to disease because of the smaller space.


3. Manage Impact of Sun and Shade

Plants and trees compete for water, sunlight, and nutrients and sometimes only the strongest survive. A blooming plant that appears to grow in harmony next to a young tree will struggle as the tree matures and its canopy spreads to 50 feet across, creating more shade than sunlight. Property owners should incorporate into their master plan what the next step will be if a big tree dies or what will happen to blooming material as the tree gets older.


4. Prepare for Changing Conditions

Weather and changing conditions are big factors to consider when developing a long-term plan. Extreme conditions may tempt property owners to abandon the plan and move in a new direction. But conditions that are here today won’t necessarily be around for long. For example, during the recent drought in the southern U.S., water supplies were depleted for several months, damaging many landscapes that were designed with plant life that requires ample water.


5. Commit to Tree Trimming and Maintenance

Whatever the landscape components, maintenance is fundamental in order to stick to the plan. Skipping routine tree trimming, for example, will extend the tree’s canopy and affect the growth of other nearby plant life. Grass and other shrubs may die and require replanting at an additional expense.

6. Look into the Future

Nobody can predict the future, but it’s fairly certain that world water supply will continue to be an issue as the population grows so managing what is becoming a finite water supply is important. You also need to keep in mind that areas will experience once-in-a-century floods and drought, along with colder and warmer than normal temperatures. Plant life will be affected. A long-term plan should consider this important factor and include introducing material best suited for what lies ahead.
"

Whether we are working on a new, complex installation, renovation, or a simple site improvement, our professional crews at Pacific Vista Landscape Services have years of experience using the industry established "best practices" to install both hard-scape and soft-scapes. Pacific Vista delivers the best in workmanship and finest of materials to ensure landscapes retain a lasting beauty. Our team of seasoned pros pay attention to every detail to make certain your vision comes to life!

Friday, July 5, 2013

Trees Need Special Protection During Construction

Alabama Cooperative Extension
Whether you are remodeling your home or starting completely over, mature trees add value to a property and need special protection during construction. It is not just the trunk that needs to be protected, most damage occurs below ground. Heavy machinery can be detrimental to a tree's root system and depending on the type of tree, roots can be shallow and extend quite far. Rolling equipment, even if it passes only a few times, can compact soil and roots too densely and be harmful to the health of the tree. Excavating or adding too much soil can also damage roots.

A study done by forestry agents at the Alabama Cooperative Extension and mentioned in the National Garden Association's article 'Protecting Trees During Construction' came up with some low cost solutions. "Fencing off the critical root zone -- the area around the tree where roots are most vulnerable to damage from soil compaction -- is key. But where constraints exist that make such fencing off impossible, the foresters discovered some simple ways to lessen the impact of heavy machinery. They found, for example, that simply spreading mulch 8 inches deep and covering it with 3/4 inch plywood distributed the weight of the equipment driving over enough to greatly reduce the amount of soil compaction below."

Tree trimming and care are specialities of our's at Pacific Vista Landscape Services. We can estimate a tree's root system diameter and depth as well as prepare the area with mulch for protection if fencing is not an option. Let us help keep your trees healthy for upcoming years of enjoyment long after the construction is over! 





Monday, June 10, 2013

Southern California: Brush Clearance Time!

In the wake of the Powerhouse Fire, we are all reminded it's that time of year to clear brush in our beautiful Southern California.  Even if you have not received an inspection notice from the Los Angeles Fire Department, do not assume that you do not need to be in compliance. By being proactive, your property will be safer in the event of a fire.

Pacific Vista Landscape Services is here for you to help protect your home by clearing the brush and doing it safely and correctly. The Los Angeles Fire Department website has helpful information for homeowners who are getting ready to clear brush around their homes. It is very important to follow their advice as clearing brush has often led to fires when done incorrectly.


LAFD BRUSH CLEARANCE
SAFETY TIPS FOR HOMEOWNERS:

"Remember that when clearing your brush, safety is very important. In recent
years many brush fires have started by homeowners attempting to clear their
brush. Many times, the sparks produced from metal blades on motorized
equipment has started fires.

The following are simple guidelines for homeowners to follow to clear their brush
safely:

  • Always have a water source readily available. A water extinguisher, garden hose or a few buckets of water. 
  • Avoid clearing brush during the peak temperatures of the day, between 11:00 am and 3:00 pm and on days when a Red Flag Alert* has been declared by the Fire Department.
  • Only use properly maintained motorized equipment and have a spark arrester when required.
  • Do not refuel motorized equipment while motor is running. Use approved fuel-dispensing containers only. 
  • Always make sure the hot exhaust on any motorized equipment is clear of any vegetation. (grasses, weeds, shrubs) 
  • Do not use metal blades on weed whackers/whips. Use nylon line or plastic blades instead.
  • Always wear safety glasses and gloves. Hard hats and dust masks are recommended. 
* Red Flag weather days refer to certain weather conditions that can cause a wild-land fire to
 start and to spread rapidly. These conditions generally exist when the winds exceed 25 mph
 and relative humidity is below 15%."

To see LAFD requirements, click here:
LAFD Sketch of General Requirements

0 to 100 Feet Clearance

100 to 200 Feet Clearance.

For more information, call LAFD at
(818) 374-1111, or visit www.lafd.org/brush .

Pacific Vista Landscape Services is here to help with all you landscaping needs and are experts when it comes to clearing brush. Protect your property as much as possible by being in compliance during this dry fire season. Call us for a quote at 661-222-7525!



Wednesday, June 5, 2013

Rattlesnake Season!

Pacific Vista Landscape Services has eradicated up to 20 rattlesnakes from communities in
Santa Clarita in one year. This year will be one of the worst snake seasons on record experts are predicting thanks to the heavy rains of a few years ago. The snakes are waking up from hibernation and baby snakes are hatching. There are about 300 snakebite cases in California each year. Most bites in California happen between April and October, and they can be fatal.

Do's and don’ts in snake country:                                                      
**Never go barefoot or wear sandals when walking through wild areas. Wear hiking boots.

**When hiking, stick to well-used trails and wear over-the-ankle boots and loose-fitting long pants. Avoid tall grass, weeds and heavy underbrush where snakes may hide during the day.

**Do not step or put your hands where you cannot see, and avoid wandering around in the dark. Step ON logs and rocks, never over them, and be especially careful when climbing rocks or gathering firewood. Check out stumps or logs before sitting down, and shake out sleeping bags before use.

**Be careful when stepping over the doorstep as well. Snakes like to crawl along the edge of buildings where they are protected on one side.

**Never hike alone. Always have someone with you who can assist in an emergency.

**Do not handle a freshly killed snake, it can still inject venom.

**Teach children early to respect snakes and to leave them alone. Children are naturally curious and will pick up snakes.
Keeping snakes out of the yard:

The best protection against rattlesnakes in the yard is a “rattlesnake proof” fence. It can be expensive and requires maintenance, however. The fence should either be solid or with mesh no larger than one-quarter inch. It should be at least three feet high with the bottom buried a few inches in the ground. Slanting your snake fence outward about a 30-degree angle will help. Discourage snakes by removing piles of boards or rocks around the home. Use caution when removing those piles - there may already be a snake there.
What to do in the event of a snake bite:

Though uncommon, rattlesnake bites do occur, so have a plan in place for responding to any situation. Carry a portable phone, hike with a companion who can assist in an emergency, and make sure that family or friends know where you are going and when you will be checking in. The first thing to do if bitten is to stay calm. Generally, the most serious effect of a rattlesnake bite to an adult is local tissue damage which needs to be treated. Children, because they are smaller, are in more danger if they are bitten. Get to a doctor as soon as possible, but stay calm. Frenetic, high-speed driving places the victim at greater risk of an accident and increased heart rate. If the doctor is more than 30 minutes away, keep the bite below the heart, and then try to get to the doctor as quickly as possible.
The California Poison Control Center advises:  CALL 911
·       Stay calm
·       Wash the bite area gently with soap and water
·       Remove watches, rings, etc, which may constrict swelling
·       Immobilize the affected area
·       Transport safely to the nearest medical facility

For more first aid information please visit:   California Poison Control.

Wednesday, April 10, 2013

OH DEER In Your Garden...


by Kerry King, QAC - Agriculture, Pacific Vista Landscape Services, Inc.

As the natural habitat for deer and other animals is reduced by the urban expansion, hunger, and
Click on image to enlarge
drought, herbivores are driven into our back yards and gardens. With traditional deer deterrents, the cure is often worse than the damage. Using bags of human hair, bars of soap hanging in the trees, garlic or pepper spray is not going to help your problem.

There are far better ways to deter the deer from your garden or plants. Here are a few ideas that might work for you:
  1. Using a liquid deer repellent  (must be reapplied on a regular basis)
  2. Plant a plot garden to redirect the deer away from the plants you want to protect.
  3. Find where the deer are entering you property and create a barrier with a plot saver product. This will put the repellent at nose level and the deer will not pass over it. 
  4. Using motion sensors attached to lights or to your sprinkler system is effective.
  5. Try blood meal at the base of you plants.  This is all organic and is a good source of nitrogen for your plants.
  6. Use deer resistant plants where at all possible. A good reference to locate these plants is in the Sunset Western Garden Book or any on online horticulture site.  Here are just a few:

http://www.amazon.com/Western-Garden-Book-Climate-Experts/dp/0376039167














About the Author:
Mr. Kerry King,
Sr. Acct Mgr., QAC-Agriculture,
Pacific Vista Landscape Services, Inc. has over 38 years in the landscaping profession.