Showing posts with label management. Show all posts
Showing posts with label management. Show all posts

Friday, August 28, 2015

The Benefits of Aloe Vera!

by Pacific Vista Landscape Services

Its health benefits are advertised widely and there is good reason. The aloe vera plant has a lot to offer!

The gel from aloe vera can help heal wounds or moisten dry areas. The plant's gel acts like a natural antiseptic by disinfecting the cut or burn and helping it heal. The gel is also a moisturizer for dry lips, elbows, knees, toes, feet, etc. It is often referred to as the "natural healer" or the "miracle plant." Many companies sell products with aloe vera in it but why not have your own supply on hand. Just cut a piece off and squeeze out the gel! 

People are drinking the juice, called aloe water, to gain its benefits internally. Rich in antioxidants and a natural anti-inflammatory, aloe water is thought to aid digestion, strengthen the immune system, help blood circulation, lower cholesterol, among many other health benefits!

Aloe vera is easy to grow! In the beginning, people found this miracle plant in the regions of north-eastern and southern areas of Africa and Madagascar and used it in their daily lives. Now there are over 250 species around the world and its helpful properties are used in many cultures.

Aloe vera is considered semi-tropical and thrives in warm, dry climates. It can grow from the
size of a golf ball to 5 feet across! It is not fast growing and it is easy to take care of. If your plant grows new baby aloes, those can be taken out and grown to another adult plant which is called propagation. It is part of the succulent family and is drought tolerant so it is perfect to grow outdoors in Southern California!

It can also grow indoors in a sunny place. If your aloe vera plant is in a pot, make sure it has plenty of room to grow deep roots. Your pot should also have holes on the bottom to drain extra water as succulents' roots will rot in too much water.


Aloe vera is a very useful plant. From it's health benefits, to being easy to take care of and perfect for Southern California, it's hard to beat!

Friday, October 17, 2014

California's New Water Regulations

Ponds and waterfalls must recycle water!
Due to California’s 'Mediterranean' climate, it is normal for the state to experience dry periods. However, in these past few years, scarcely any rain has fallen in California, which has lead to a severe drought. A drought occurs when an area’s precipitation decreases, which causes a water shortage. In an effort to limit water usage during our severe drought, statewide regulations have been issued this year.

Regulations are being enforced concerning water usage, and a violation of these rules could result in a $500 fine. Watering driveways or sidewalks is strictly prohibited, along with the watering of personal property IF it causes water runoff. You can still water, but there are regulations on how water can be used. For example, if you want to wash your car, the hose you use must have a shut-off nozzle and any ponds, fountains or other water features on your property must recycle water.

Example of water waste!
Depending on where you live in California, the rules and regulations vary. However, there are general rules that are enforced in most areas. You can only water outside two days a week during the winter, three during the summer, and during certain hours. These hours are in the early morning, late afternoon, and night. Watering during midday allows for higher evaporation and less ground absorption which is counterproductive. In severely affected areas, water usage is already limited to 50 gallons per individual in a household. Those who exceed the limits or have blatant water waste, are subject to a $500 fine as well as being charged 160% higher rates for water usage.

If the drought continues and people don’t make an attempt to conserve water, stricter water regulations will be enforced overall. An example of this would only being able to water one day of the week and more areas having usage limits and higher rates. The drought doesn’t seem like it will be over anytime soon, and to replenish water reservoirs and put an end to the drought California would roughly need around a foot of rainwater. Since it is impossible to change the weather, the only thing people can do to help is conserve water and follow the regulations that have been enforced.

We are here to help! At Pacific Vista Landscape Services, we are experts on irrigation and drought resistant landscaping, read more here:
http://landscape-and-property-news.blogspot.com/2014/03/smart-irrigation-save-water-money.html 
There are also rebates programs that can help mitigate the cost for changing lawns to drought resistant landscaping and updating irrigation systems covered here:
http://landscape-and-property-news.blogspot.com/2013/12/a-greener-landscape-re-landscape-with.html
Call us for a free irrigation evaluation and let us help you save water and money AND have a beautifully landscaped garden!

Monday, March 31, 2014

Smart Irrigation: Save Water & Money

by Pacific Vista Landscape Services

In Southern California, water is one of our most precious resources. After three consecutive years of below normal rainfall, we are now in a 'drought emergency' and many areas of California are imposing irrigation restrictions. The biggest problem is the old school irrigation systems which are extremely wasteful and inefficient. According to the Environmental Protection Agency, "Residential outdoor water use in the United States accounts for more than 9 billion gallons of water each day, mainly for landscape irrigation. Experts estimate that as much as 50 percent of this water is wasted due to overwatering caused by inefficiencies in irrigation methods and systems. Irrigation control technologies can significantly reduce overwatering by applying water only when plants need it." 

The latest irrigation systems use 'smart' technology and are very effective at saving water and money. A 'smart' technology irrigation system has a controller which takes in account the weather and landscape conditions so that only the amount of water needed is used, unlike automatic timers that act blindly. This technology, combined with low-volume systems
of delivery that can be tailored to specific landscape needs, can effectively reduce overwatering. These systems are designed to deliver water directly onto the roots or  underground through subirrigation, eliminating the problem of water waste through evaporation and overspray. According to the Irrigation & Green Industry website, "In this new green environment, low-volume irrigation has found its footing—or at least, its tubing. The national move toward drip makes sense. Whether the terrain is residential or commercial, drip or lowflow is a proven water-saver. With low-flow and drip, water is delivered in quantities measured in fractions of gallons-per-hour (gph), instead of gallons-per-minute (gpm). There are advantages to installing low-volume irrigation, too. Low-volume irrigation is unlikely to be banned during a drought, because of the minimum quantities of water delivered by low-pressure emitters, low-volume spitters, and bubblers.

Also, low-volume irrigation promotes healthy plant growth, because a precise amount of water can be delivered to a plant in a targeted way. Water can be steered to the trees, plants, and shrubs that need it and away from those that don’t, which reduces the chances of harmful diseases and fungi taking hold on stems or trunks." Water penetrating at the roots also encourages the roots to grow deeper, making the plants more hardy and drought resistant.

For many years, the Pacific Vista Landscape team has been delivering effective water management programs. We are experts on the latest irrigation technology and have multiple irrigation certifications. Our water management strategies help customers reduce water usage, save money and ensure a lush landscape. Our clients have saved thousands of dollars and more importantly, conserved hundreds of thousands of gallons of water. Through effective water management strategies and the use of 'smart' technologies, it is possible to achieve a lush, healthy landscape, while achieving water conservation and money saving goals!





















Thursday, December 5, 2013

A Greener Landscape: Re-Landscape with Lawn Rebates in Southern California

Drought tolerant landscaping photo by Inventist Media
by Pacific Vista Landscape Services

If you live in Southern California and have a lawn that requires lots of water to maintain, you might want to consider trading it in for drought tolerant landscaping. Rebates for re-landscaping can help cover the initial cost as well as save water and money for years to come.

There are 26 agencies in Southern California that get their water from the Metropolitan Water District and participate in the lawn rebate program called So-Cal Water Smart. Depending on your provider, qualifications and rebates will vary but some have recently increased their rebates to increase the incentive for property owners to exchange their grass for cash.

For example, The Department of Water & Power, DWP, recently increased the rebate amount for it's Landscape Incentive Program from $1.50 per square foot to $2.00 per square foot. Homeowners can claim up to 2000 square feet and get up to $4000.00 cash back! Multi family and commercial buildings can also receive rebates with a tiered program that also gives up to $2.00 per square foot. This is considered a limited time offer by DWP so now is the time to take action!

Qualifying is the first step in obtaining a rebate. Prior to re-landscaping, an application must be filled out and pre-approval is needed. For DWP customers, the application is available at DWP's website and property owners are required to submit photos and a description of planned landscaping. An inspection will be done prior to removal of a lawn and after completion of re-landscaping before a rebate will be issued. 

Drought tolerant landscaping photo by Inventist Media
Re-landscaping options require use of plants that are considered 'California Friendly'. A list of native and drought tolerant options which includes around 1500 trees, shrubs, succulents, vines, perennials and ground cover can be found at the Metropolitan Water District's site Bewaterwise.com. Along with lots of beautiful plant options, using non-vegetative materials like pebbles and decomposed granite to create interesting visual additions can enhance your your new landscape. Segmented areas, planters, and pathways can add landscaping appeal while further lowering watering needs.

At Pacific Vista Landscape Services, we can help in planning your re-landscaping project. We are experts when it comes to native plants and drought tolerant options as well as non-vegetative landscaping additions. We also provide the latest smart technology in irrigation systems that can save you even more money in rebates. Give us a call and see what we can do for your property!

Wednesday, November 6, 2013

Tree Care: TLC For Your Tree!

Eucalyptus Tree photo by Inventist Media
by Pacific Vista Landscape Services

One of the most important services we provide at Pacific Vista Landscape is tree care. Trees bring beauty to a property and increased value. They also absorb noise and pollution and clean the air we breathe. A healthy tree can last years, even centuries and beyond. California has some of the oldest living trees; like the Giant Sequoia Redwoods which are around a few thousand years old and the Bristlecone Pine which grows in the mountains of Southern California and can live up to five thousand years! Proper care can ensure that your trees have optimal health and are enjoyed for generations to come. 

Trees are susceptible to many forms of stress including; wind, rain, disease and pest damage. These stresses can be minimized by implementing a routine maintenance program for trees. A proper tree care program will allow fluid growth patterns and wind penetration. This will condition your trees for long term healthy development.

Proper pruning is key to a good tree care program. It can also aid in keeping a view from being obstructed or maintaining healthy coverage from an unsightly view. The best time to prune trees depends on the variety but often it is in the dormant season, usually fall and winter. Pruning during the dormant period minimizes sap loss and subsequent stress to the tree. It also minimizes the risk of fungus infection or insect infestation as both fungi and insects are likely to be in dormancy at the same time as the tree. At Pacific Vista Landscape, all of our pruning practices are based upon the International Society of Arboriculture industry standards and our trained professionals prune trees in accordance with American National Standards Institute (ANSI) A300 Standards. This ensures that you get the finest quality tree care available.

We offer a tree care plan that can meet the needs of every tree on your property by taking into account species, age, and purpose. Our staff will provide you with a complete inventory of all trees and organize these trees on a multiple year tree care plan. We will place the trees on an appropriate frequency to best suit a given species. Call us today for a free quote and see what we can do for your trees!

Friday, October 4, 2013

Composting is Easy!

http://www.inventistmedia.com/
Compost photo by Inventist Media
by Pacific Vista Landscape Services

In nature, once living material drops to the ground, decays, and eventually decomposes creating compost. This material is essential because it adds nutrients to the soil helping living plants thrive. It is easy to create your own compost and make your garden thrive as well!

The first essential ingredient for creating compost is air. The bacteria and fungus microbes that are in your compost pile need oxygen to live. If your pile is too dense or becomes too wet, the air supply to the inside is cut off and the beneficial organisms will die. Decomposition will slow and an offensive odor may arise. To avoid this, turn and fluff the pile with a pitchfork often, perhaps weekly. You can also turn the pile by just re-piling it into a new pile.


Next is water. One of the most common mistakes in composting is letting the pile get too dry. Your compost pile should be moist as a wrung-out sponge. A moisture content of 40 to 60 percent is preferable. To test for adequate moisture, reach into your compost pile and grab a handful of material and squeeze it; if a few drops of water come out, it's probably got enough moisture, if it doesn't, add water. When you water, it is best to put a hose into the pile so that you aren't just wetting the top. You can also water as you are turning the pile. During dry weather, you may have to add water regularly. During wet weather, you may need to cover your pile. A properly constructed compost pile will drain excess water and not become soggy.


Third essential ingredient is carbon. Microbes need carbon for energy to be able to break down the organic material. Brown yard and garden material such as dry leaves, twigs, hay, or shredded paper can provide the carbon balance for a compost pile. Chop or shred large pieces to 12 inches or shorter (thick, woody branches should be chipped, ground up, or left out). 


Lastly, composting needs nitrogen. Nitrogen is the protein required to fuel the bodies of the microbes so they can do their job. Green materials such as grass clipping and landscape trimmings are ideal sources of nitrogen for composting. Vegetable and fruit trimmings and peels can also provide nitrogen for composting. Coffee grounds and tea bags may look brown, but are actually potent nitrogen sources. To reduce the potential for pests or odors, avoid meat or dairy scraps and always bury food scraps deep within the compost pile. Avoid pet feces due to concerns about pathogens. However, manure from chickens, turkeys, cows or horses is rich in nitrogen, and can help your compost pile get to proper temperatures, and make very good compost.

You can compost in a contained bin or, if it's ok with your city, have an outside pile right on the ground. Ideally, the compost pile should be at least three feet wide by three feet deep by three feet tall (one cubic yard). This size provides enough food and insulation for the organisms to live. However, piles can be larger or smaller and work just fine if managed well.  

The easiest compost recipe calls for blending roughly one part of green or wet material (which is high in nitrogen) and two parts brown or dry material (which is high in carbon). Having the right ratio of carbon to nitrogen is important. "Piles with too much nitrogen tend to smell, because the excess nitrogen converts into an ammonia gas. Carbon-rich piles break down slowly because there's not enough nitrogen for the microbe population to expand. An ideal compost pile should have a 30:1 C/N ratio. Grass clippings alone have about a 20:1 C/N ratio. Adding one part grass clippings, or other green, to two parts dead leaves, or other brown, will give you the right mix." (source: http://www.organicgardening.com/learn-and-grow/composting-101) Simply layer or mix these materials in a pile or enclosure; chop or shred large pieces to 12" or shorter. Water and fluff the compost to add air. Then leave it to the microorganisms, which will break down the material over time.

Compost piles that have the right blend of nitrogen and carbon and are kept moist and fluffed regularly, will heat up to temperatures of 120 to 140 degrees Fahrenheit. The high temperature will kill most weed seeds and speed up the decomposition process so that the compost may be ready in 2 to 3 months or less. Casual compost piles are also quite workable since compost will happen even if you just pile on yard and food waste, water sporadically, and wait. Since these piles don't get too hot, often worms will migrate into these and they will help breakdown material as well. Casual composting can take several months.

Composting is finished when the original material has been transformed into a uniform, dark brown, crumbly product with a pleasant, earthy aroma. There may be a few chunks of woody material left; these can be screened out and put back into a new pile. Besides making incredible, nutrient rich soil for your garden, using left over food scraps in your compost cuts down food waste that would otherwise end up in land fills! Composting is a win-win! 

Friday, September 6, 2013

Landscaping 101: Glossary of Terms

Here are some commonly used terms in landscaping:
by Pacific Vista Landscape Services

Accent:
The use of a plant or object to draw attention to a space.

Acidic soil: 
Soil with a pH value of less than 7.0.

Aeration:
A method of increasing water and oxygen into compact soil by turning and loosening the soil to allow penetration.

Alkaline soil: 
Soil with a pH value of more than 7.0.

Annual:
A plant that completes its life cycle in one year or season.

Apex: 
The tip of a stem.

Arbor: 
A shady garden shelter or bower, often made of rustic wood or latticework on which vines, roses, etc. are grown.

Arboretum:
A landscaped space where trees, shrubs, and herbaceous plants are cultivated for scientific study, educational purposes, and to foster appreciation of plants.

Axil:
The area between a leaf and the stem from which the leaf arises.

Bacillus Thuringiensis(BT):
Biological Control

Beneficial Biological Controls:
Insects and organic chemicals

Biennial:
A plant that typically takes two years to complete it's life cycle.


Budding:
A form of asexual reproduction in which a new organism develops from an outgrowth or bud on another one.

Bulb:
An underground plant structure that contains nutrients, energy and seed to produce a plant.

Cambrium Layer:
The thin layer of growing cells between the xylem and phloem.

Chlorosis:
Iron deficiency

Clay:
A soil particle which is plate-like, extremely small and may retain nutrients well.

Clod:
A lump of clay which is difficult to break apart.

Cold Hardy:
Capable of withstanding cold weather conditions.

Compost:
A soil product created from decomposed garden material, used in flower beds to add nutrients and encourage good growth.

Cultivar:
A cultivated variety of a plant selected for some feature that distinguishes it from 
the species from which it was selected.

Cultivation:
Turning the soil to provide better air circulation or to control weeds.

Dead Heading:
Removing dead flowers before they set seed.

Deciduous:
Having leaves that fall off or are shed 
seasonally to avoid adverse weather conditions such as cold or drought.

Defoliation:
The process when a plant looses all its leaves.

Dethatching:
Removing thatches in grass; removal of the dead grass.


Die Back:
Tips of branches decline due to lack of moisture or disease.

Dormancey:
When a plant reaches a dormant period, usually in winter.

Drainage:
The downward movement of water passing through soil.


Drip Line:
Outmost branch tips where the water would land to feed the tree.

Drought Tolerant:
The ability of a plant to thrive without much water.


Epiphyte:
A plant that lives on a host plant but draws nutrients from the air.

Espalier:
A flat or fan like like trellis.

Established Plant:
When the plant is fully rooted.

Evergreen:
A plant whose leaves or needles are green year-round.

Fertilizer:
A material added to feed plants rich in nutrients, usually nitrogen (often lost with frequent mowing), phosphates and potash.

Fescue:
Soft compact fine-leafed grasses.


Flower Form:
Structure of a flower, i.e. single, semi, double.

Foundation Plant: plant that is used to frame around a house or structure and connect it to the rest of the landscape.

Frond:
A large leaf with multiple divisions.

Fungicide:
The chemical used to control a fungus-related disease.

Germination:
The sprouting of a seed, spore or pollen grain.


Genus:
A subdivion of a family or subfamily in the classification of organisms.

Girdling:
Also called ring-barking, is the removal of bark around the circumference of the tree in a ring. The result is a slow death to the part of the tree or woody plant above the damage.

Grading:
The process of changing the slope level of an area of soil.


Grafting:
Combining the vascular tissues of two plants to form a hybrid by placing a portion of one plant (called a bud or scion) into or on a stem, root, or branch of another (called the stock) in such a way that a union forms and the partners continue to grow.

Ground Cover:
Plants which are low-growing and create a blanket appearance over an area.


Growing Season:
The period each year when the plant grows.

Hardscape:

Walkways, planters, and areas made of hard material like concrete or rocks that is incorporated into the landscape and balances with the 'softscape'.

Hardy:
Plants that can survive difficult conditions like frost and severe cold.

Hedge:
A variety of shrubs that when planted close together will give a wall-like appearance; often used to separate areas.


Herbaceous:
Having little or no woody tissue. Most plants grown as perennials or annuals are herbaceous.

Herbicide:
A chemical used to control weeds.


Horticulture:
The science of growing plants, flowers, trees, shrubs, fruit, & grasses.

Hybrid:
A plant or group of plants that results from the interbreeding of two distinct cultivars, 
varieties, species, or genera.

Indigenous:
Occurring naturally in a particular place. Native.

Iron:
A mineral used in keeping grass green.

Irrigation: 

Applying water to vegetation and landscape to help it thrive.

Leader:
The primary shoot of a plant.

Leaf Burn:
A plant disease that causes a burnt appearance.

Leaf Mold:
A fungal disease of plants in which mold develops on the leaves.

Lime:
Calcium material used to raise the pH in soil.

Macronutrients:
Essential elements needed in large amounts for healthy plant growth: nitrogen, phosphorus, calcium, magnesium, and sulfur.


Micro Climate:
The climate of a small area that is different than the climate of the surrounding area.

Micronutrients:
Essential elements needed in very small amounts for healthy plant growth: iron, copper, zinc, boron, molybdenum, chlorine, and cobalt.

Mulch:
A material used to cover soil for moisture conservation and weed suppression.

Native Plant:
A plant that lives or grows naturally in a particular region without direct or indirect 
human intervention. Indigenous.

Node:
The part of a plant stem from which one or more leaves emerge.

Organic Fertilizer:
Compounds derived from decomposition of plant and animal products and include blood meal, bone meal, manure, and sewage sludge.


Organic Matter:
Biological material in the process of decaying or decomposing.

Osmosis:
When water travels across a membrane.


Peatmoss:
A bog like moss processed to be used in potting soils and helps assimilate nutrients for the plant.

Perennial:
Persisting for several years, usually dying back to a perennial crown during the winter and initiating new growth each spring.

Pesticide:
A chemical used to control an organism.

pH:
The acidity and alkalinity of soil.


Phloem: 
One of the two types of transport tissue in vascular plants, xylem is the other.

Photosynthesis:
The process in which plants convert sunlight energy into chemical energy that can be used as fuel to aid in plant development.

Planter:
The defined area, commonly raised and composed of wood or concrete, used to grow plants.


Plant Family:
A plant that belongs to a family that shares the same broad characterisitcs.

Polladring:
A pruning meathod in which a a tree's top branches are cut back to the trunk so that it may produce a dense growth of new shoots.

Pollen:
A fine powdery substance consisting of microscopic grains discharged from the male part of a flower or from a male cone.

Pollenation:
The process in which pollen is transferred.

Pollenator Bees:
Bees that transfer pollen.

Pollenizer:
A plant that supplies pollen.

Pruning:
A method of cutting parts of a plant off to control size, health and appearance.

Pseudo Bulb:
A storage organ derived from the part of a stem between two leaf nodes.

Re-foliate:
Term used for when a plant grows new leaves after a leafless period, usually in the spring.


Rhizome:
A horizontal, usually underground stem that often sends out roots and shoots from its nodes.

Root Bound:
A plant that has grown too large for its container resulting in matting or tangling of the roots.

Rootstock:
The part of a budded or grafted plant that furnishes the root system. Also called 'understock'.

Rosette:
A circular arrangement of leaves or petals.

Scion:
A detached shoot or twig used in grafting.

Shrub:
A low-growing woody plant, usually under 15 feet that often has multiple stems.

Shock:
A term used to describe a plant that has been impacted by change, i.e. transplanting, weather, too much or too little water, frost, etc.


Sod:
Small areas of turf ready for transplant to new locations. Often used to start a new lawn.

Softscape:

Vegetation used in landscaping which balances with 'hardscape'. Includes trees, flowers, grasses, shrubs. 

Species:
Plant organisms with similar traits capable of off-spring.

Specimen:
An individual plant used to represent a class or genus or plants.

Sphagnum:
A genus of 120 species of mosses, commonly called peat moss, that survives well in wet, acidic soil.

Spore: 
Typically a one-celled, reproductive unit capable of giving rise to a new individual plant.

Spur:
A projecting root or branch.

Standard:
A tree or shrub that grows to full height.

Stolon:
A stem, at or just below the surface of the ground, that produces new plants from buds at it's tips or nodes.

Stress:
The negative impact of non-living forces on a plant.

Sucker:
A secondary shoot produced from the base or roots of a woody plant that gives rise to a new plant.

Tap Root:
An enlarged root, that grows downward and forms a center which other roots sprout laterally.

Tender:
A delicate plant that is usually sensitive to frost or severe cold.

Temperature Tolerance:
Cold or heat, the degree at which a plant can handle temperatures and survive.

Thatch:
The live or dead layer of roots and stems between the turf of a lawn and the soil.


Thinning:
Pruning or removing some branches in a uniform way throughout a tree or shrub.

Topiary:
A decorative style of plant growth controlled by shaping with pruning or shearing.

Transplant:
Moving a plant from one location to another.

Tree:
A woody perennial plant having a single, usually elongated main stem or trunk with 
few or no branches on its lower part.

Tuber:
A thickened, underground stem or rhizome which stores nutrients.

Turf:
A ground cover of grass.

Variegation:
A pattern of leaves that contains either white or yellow markings.


Variety:
A sub-species of plant.

Vegetation:
A general term for all plant life.

Water Sprout:
A nonflowering shoot arising from a branch or axil of a tree or shrub.

Wildflower:
A herbaceous plant that is native to a given area and is representative of unselected 

forms of its species.

Woody Plant:
A plant with persistent woody parts that do not die back in adverse conditions. Most 
woody plants are trees or shrubs.

Xylem: One of the two types of transport tissue in vascular plants, phloem is the other.


Friday, August 23, 2013

Protecting Our Water Supply: Backflow Prevention in Los Angeles and Ventura Counties

by Pacific Vista Landscape Services

Protecting the public water system from contamination is essential for the safety of our
Aqueduct in California
water supply. Cross-connections of pipes between the public water system and private water systems can lead to backflow issues in which untested and possibly unsafe water goes the wrong direction due to backpressure, and can contaminate the public water supply system. To protect against this, there is a Backflow Protection Program by the Los Angeles Department of Water and Power, (LADWP.) When backflow protection is necessary, customers are required by the LADWP to have an approved backflow prevention assembly installed and tested annually by a certified company like Pacific Vista Landscape Services.


As explained by the Los Angeles County Waterworks District, "A cross-connection is any connection between a safe drinking water system and any other untested water source, system, or equipment that may contain unsafe substance. LACWD’s public water systems are designed to keep water flowing in one direction—from LACWD’s water main to the customers’ connections. When an undesirable condition known as backflow occurs, water is allowed to flow in the opposite direction and may bring contaminants or pollutant into the public drinking water supply through a cross-connection. 

Backflow is caused by a backsiphonage or a backpressure condition in the public water system. Backsiphonage may occur when the pressure in the public water system drops below atmospheric pressure and creates a vacuum that may pull unsafe substance into the public water supply. Backpressure may occur when the pressure from a private water system becomes greater than the pressure in the public water system. This difference in pressure may allow unsafe substance from the private water system to enter the public water system. Approved backflow prevention assemblies are designed to prevent backflow of contaminants or pollutants from entering the public water systems."

Pacific Vista Landscape Services is proud to be certified in installation, repair, and testing of all approved backflow prevention assemblies in Los Angeles and Ventura counties. We offer low rates to our clients with backflow requirements and also specialize in custom protective cages for the backflow assembly, repairs to existing devices, and offer a free annual reminder for testing. Emergency and after hour service is also available.

Call us today for installation, repairs, and testing by our professional, certified backflow prevention service team and let us ensure your property is in compliance with LADWP's Backflow Prevention Program! 


Wednesday, July 24, 2013

Easy Perennials for Southern California

Southern California is a grower's paradise for many flowers thanks to our climate. Perennial is latin for 'through' and 'year' meaning that they should last at least a couple years, with flowers growing and blooming in spring and summer, dying back in fall and winter, and coming back the next spring and summer. However, many perennials can continue blooming for many years in Southern California's climate before being replaced. Here are some easy perennials that continue to give beautiful blooms year after year:
Lily of the Nile photo by Mark Imhof


Lily of the Nile (Agapanthus): A striking combination of green foliage with long slender leaves that blooms in summer with a ball of multiple purple, blue, or white mini trumpet flowers on a long stalk that reaches up a few feet tall. Does well in full sun areas and can be divided in clumps to replant.


California Fuchsia photo by Stan Shebs

California Fuchsia (Zauschneria californica): This variety is perfect for hotter parts of So Cal because it is considered heat-resistant. This variety has grey-green leafy foliage and long-blooming bright orange, red and fuchsia flowers that last summer into fall. This variety does benefit from pruning to encourage fuller growth.



Butterfly Iris photo by Kristina Palmer


Butterfly Iris (Dietes bicolor): This perennial does well in sun or shade and in hard to grow spots. However, the sunnier the location, the more blooms. Each bloom has a short life of only about a day but it continuously gives off masses of flowers starting in early spring throughout the summer. It has upward, spiky leaves and does well in many types of soil. This variety can also be split and replanted.


Santa Barbara Daisy photo by Rob D. Brodman


Santa Barbara Daisy (Erigeron karvinskianus): A blooming superstar and fast spreader with grey-green leaves and small, yellowed centered blooms. Petals start off white and mature into pink and purple. It is one of the earliest bloomers in spring and lasts long into fall. These do well in part sun and can be used to cascade in containers and planters. It also attracks beneficial insects!




Although you can plant perennials any time of the year in Southern California, planting perennials in the early fall helps get their root sytem established to bloom strong by spring and summer. At Pacific Vista Landscape Services we are experts on all types of flowers and adding color to your garden. We are dedicated to maintaining the beauty and value of your landscape!




Friday, July 12, 2013

Property Management: Smart Landscaping

http://www.propertymanagementinsider.com/six-property-management-tips-for-creating-a-long-term-landscape-plan.html
Image by Camden Addison
Being smart and thinking long-term when choosing landscaping for a multi-residential property is key for lasting beauty. Landscaping large properties usually incorporates a combination of hard-scape and soft-scapes that look good initially but should also mature well with the site and not lead to expensive replacement issues down the line.

Property Manager Insider's 'Six Property Management Tips for Creating a Long-Term Landscaping Plan' has some great pointers for making smart choices."Those small trees that uniformly frame the clubhouse or the lush grass under a newly planted young Live Oak may look great now, but changes in available light, water supply, and nutrients over the course of several growing seasons could drastically alter the appearance and force you to replace them at additional cost and headache. 

That’s why apartment property owners should consider a long-term landscape plan that will not only minimize expenses but ensure that the community always looks its best several years down the road:

1. Envision the Property’s Horizon

Look at your horizon on the property and set a goal. Is the goal to create as much shade and greenery for the property as possible, or is it maintaining a clean-cut, colorful landscape that needs plenty of sun?


2. Consider Landscape Maturity

Plants will grow to maturity under normal growing conditions. When planning a landscape, property owners should envision what the property will look like as plant life matures and be prepared to make changes as necessary.

Avoid focusing on what a plant or tree looks like when it’s young: installing a young bush or tree that will be much larger at maturity in a small area could lead to larger issues as it grows. Even if trimmed and not allowed to reach its full growth potential, the plant can break down and be susceptible to disease because of the smaller space.


3. Manage Impact of Sun and Shade

Plants and trees compete for water, sunlight, and nutrients and sometimes only the strongest survive. A blooming plant that appears to grow in harmony next to a young tree will struggle as the tree matures and its canopy spreads to 50 feet across, creating more shade than sunlight. Property owners should incorporate into their master plan what the next step will be if a big tree dies or what will happen to blooming material as the tree gets older.


4. Prepare for Changing Conditions

Weather and changing conditions are big factors to consider when developing a long-term plan. Extreme conditions may tempt property owners to abandon the plan and move in a new direction. But conditions that are here today won’t necessarily be around for long. For example, during the recent drought in the southern U.S., water supplies were depleted for several months, damaging many landscapes that were designed with plant life that requires ample water.


5. Commit to Tree Trimming and Maintenance

Whatever the landscape components, maintenance is fundamental in order to stick to the plan. Skipping routine tree trimming, for example, will extend the tree’s canopy and affect the growth of other nearby plant life. Grass and other shrubs may die and require replanting at an additional expense.

6. Look into the Future

Nobody can predict the future, but it’s fairly certain that world water supply will continue to be an issue as the population grows so managing what is becoming a finite water supply is important. You also need to keep in mind that areas will experience once-in-a-century floods and drought, along with colder and warmer than normal temperatures. Plant life will be affected. A long-term plan should consider this important factor and include introducing material best suited for what lies ahead.
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Whether we are working on a new, complex installation, renovation, or a simple site improvement, our professional crews at Pacific Vista Landscape Services have years of experience using the industry established "best practices" to install both hard-scape and soft-scapes. Pacific Vista delivers the best in workmanship and finest of materials to ensure landscapes retain a lasting beauty. Our team of seasoned pros pay attention to every detail to make certain your vision comes to life!